1995 Maxima - Engine Removal

[NutriaforBreakfast]

What is the best way to remove VQ30E-from the top or the bottom?FSM shows bottom. Has anybody removed from bottom in garage andhow did u do it?

[maxhopper]

I've done numerous engine swaps on 4th gens, and I've always gone out the top. I use a cherry picker and a leveler with chains. Remove the hood and put the front end up on jack stands as high as you safely can. Disconnect all the wiring. Remove the intake piping, and disconnect all the hoses. Remove the 4 bolts holding the A/C compressor on and use something to tie it up secure so the weight is not on the hoses (that way you don't break the seal on the A/C system). I usually attach the chains on one side of the leveler where the motor mount attaches to the trans, and the other chains around the arm of the passenger side motor mount (where it comes off the front cover). You'll need to remove both axles, the y-pipe, and the cross member (and attached motor mounts). Once I get everything loose, I adjust the leveler all the way so that the trans is pointing down. Then carefully lift the motor and trans assembly out. If you have ABS it will take a little more patience to get it out, but just move slowly and you can work it out around the ABS lines.

[NutriaforBreakfast]

Interesting. The FSM says to take it out underneath but I am scaredto jack up the car that high. What brand of engine puller did you use?I see a cheap one from Harbor Freight but am a little nervous aboutthat one.

Also are you using an engine stand? What kind is it? Again I see a cheapie here too.

Would be willing to pay a little more to buy/rent good stuff.

About how long did it take you to set up the pullout? Did you go aheadand buy and intall new motor mounts every time?

Thank you!

[maxhopper]

Yeah, the Harbor Freight stuff should work just fine.

Swapping the engine and transmission took about two days.

You can use an engine stand, but it's not necessary (again Harbor Freight is just fine).

I just reused the motor mounts, but you can replace them if they're in bad shape.

[NutriaforBreakfast]

Did you get new engine or get/rebuild the old?Was wondering about the Auto Zone engines

[maxhopper]

I got a 65k motor and VLSD automatic trans for around $1250 delivered from http://www.lkqcorp.com. Their engines and trans assemblies come with a 6 month warranty. I've put over 20k miles on mine since the swap and haven't had any issues. If you go that route, you'll want to switch over all the sensors from your old motor as long as they are all in working order (but keep the others for possible spares). It's also a good time to replace the EGR valve while the motor's out.

[NutriaforBreakfast]

That is sure something to be proud of being able to changeout the motors. How may times have you done it?

Have you bought engines and trans from that co before?Was the engine and trans already mated or did you bolt together? Sounds like you got a great price-especiallyif the warranty is sound!

Probably the next problem on my car is either the water pump orthe transmission. At 180K, just trying to figure out the best wayto $go$. If I can make the car last, I will be able tomaintain the house with out a lot of debt.

[maxhopper]

I've probably done about 5 swaps. One on my car, and helped friends on the rest.

The motor and trans I put in my car was bought from http://www.lkqcorp.com, others just got theirs from local junk yards (which normally offer just a 30 day warranty). The motor and trans where shipped separately and I had to bolt them together.

The $ issue was the whole reason I replaced the engine and trans instead of buying another car. I didn't want another car payment, and I figured if I can get another 100k miles out of the new engine and trans, it'd be well worth the cost (since the rest of the car was in great condition).

[NutriaforBreakfast]

Have you changed the timing chain and water pump withoutremoving the engine completely? The guy thats going to helpme with this project was hoping this.

He was wondering if it might be possible to remove one or moremotor mounts to get some clearance between the crank and thefenderwall/power steering area. Maybe the car could be jacked up a little. Of course the transmission might not allow much room for jacking up?One machine shop I visited said it would be possible to cut a holein the fender to gain some access.

How high are you jacking up your car to remove the engine from the top?Did you use cinder blocks or just jackstands? We were thinking to get the right kind of engine puller and didnt want to get one that too short.

BTW I was quoted $6000.00 to put a new long block in. The guy triedto convince me the car needed a timing belt at first. I politely drove away.

[NutriaforBreakfast]

Talked to a Orielleys counterman who has worked on a 240x.Says the best way to get to the water pump and timing chainis to remove 3 motor mounts(front and sides) and to loosenthe one by the transmission. Pivot the engine up with a floor jack-on the oil pan (no need to remove). Said I would have no transmission clearance problems.

[maxhopper]

Have you changed the timing chain and water pump withoutremoving the engine completely? The guy thats going to helpme with this project was hoping this.

No, I haven't done the timing chain or water pump with the engine still in (and I wouldn't want to).

He was wondering if it might be possible to remove one or moremotor mounts to get some clearance between the crank and thefenderwall/power steering area. Maybe the car could be jacked up a little. Of course the transmission might not allow much room for jacking up?One machine shop I visited said it would be possible to cut a holein the fender to gain some access.

By the time you remove the axles, y-pipe, cross member and other crap so that you could tilt the engine; you're so close to getting the engine out, it just doesn't make sense not to pull it the rest of the way out (my opinion). And i guess you could cut up the fenders, but would you really want to do that?

How high are you jacking up your car to remove the engine from the top?Did you use cinder blocks or just jackstands? We were thinking to get the right kind of engine puller and didnt want to get one that too short.

I'd try to get the front end up about a foot, so you've got room to roll around on a creeper. I used jack stands and a 2.5 - 3 ton hoist. That way you can extend the hoist boom all the way out, and still have enoung force to lift the engine and trans. And if you get a leveler, make sure you get a couple long lenths of good chain. Sometime levelers only have about 8-10 inches of chain, I would get a couple feet.

BTW I was quoted $6000.00 to put a new long block in. The guy triedto convince me the car needed a timing belt at first. I politely drove away.

Wow!

[NutriaforBreakfast]

Rats. I specifically asked him if I had to remove the crossmemberand he said no.

[maxhopper]

It depends on which way you're going to tilt it. If you're going to try to tilt the front cover side up, you may not have to remove the cross member, but you'll still have to remove the two motor mounts that come off the cross member.

[NutriaforBreakfast]

Yeah he told me the engine was going to tilt up toward the windshield and pivot off the transmission motor mount. He said Iwoudn't need a engine puller just a floor jack. Claimed he didit pretty fast (i think he said 4 hours since he didnt haveto pull the engine).

[maxhopper]

My question to that strategy would be: Where is the jacking point on the bottom? You'll have to take off the oil pan to remove the bottom two bolts that hold on the front cover (not that I would advocate jacking the engine up any considerable distance by the oil pan, especially if the load is not dispersed).

[NutriaforBreakfast]

He was saying to jack it up on the oil pan-no need to removeit. He said to use a block of wood to disperse the weight.Now you have me worried to weight would be too much forthe oil pan. There are really two oil pans, the steel one (usedfor oil changes) and the aluminum one between the engine andthe steel one. I would hate to distort either one. Might be betterto use the cherry picker and jack in this case to hold the weight.

I really appreciate your input here.

[OwnerCS]

Max - I appreciate this thread. I may need to use my engine hoist and replace mine. I have it out for repair now. I picked up a VQ30DE from a 95 Maxima with 73,000 miles that had been in a rear end total accident for under $500. However, it has been at a different shop since Thanksgiving and I'm concerned it may be Valentines day or after before I can get the shop to work on it. Since I already have the hoist, I'm getting close to pulling the engine and just doing it myself.