1995 G20T Laundry List of Problems

[InitialDerek]

I bought a 1995 G20T with 150,000 miles on it & it’s giving me a lot a trouble.

Electrical system:

I couldn’t get the car home without the Alternator going out on it. I also have a loose wire on the positive battery cable & I experience a flickering of electric current from time to time. I also notice that a new positive battery terminal is almost $300. Would the terminal from a 1995 Nissan Sentra 2.0 fit my car as well? It is much less than the G20T terminal.

Engine:

I understand that the 91-93 G20’s suffer from loss of power do to EGR valve & vacuum hose blockage. Is that a problem with my 95” as well?

My check engine light is on & it sometimes goes off when I reconnect the wire that comes out on my battery terminal. Could that be the cause of the light being on?

My engine runs rough & a little loud. I’ve had a timing chain go out in my 240SX and it doesn’t sound like that. Is it something that a tune-up would help?

Door Locks:

I can only lock my passenger side door with the key & only sometimes. I can’t lock it from the inside at all. Could that be a door switch/relay issue?

A/C Heater Control: The blower fan on my A/C Heater only works in the # 4 fan speed, is the controller the problem or could it be something else?

I know this is a lot, but I’m trying to figure out if I should keep this car or not. I very much like the car, but if I can’t keep letting it leave me standing on the side of the road.

[AZhitman]

Hey Derek!

That IS a big list. For what it's worth, I bought a 95 G20t with 150K miles as well - and promptly dropped a new engine in it. Contact me for details, it was under $500.

Alternator and batt wire issue are related - I'd trace every wire from battery to starter and alternator and look for damage or breaks. Also, make sure there's no corrosion - Wire is cheap to replace.

Which "terminal" costs $300? Not understanding what part you speak of...

Get a couple cans of Seafoam, and come back for instructions on how to use it. It can help with the EGR / IACV cleaning, as well as the intake system.

Check all your vacuum lines, then buy a couple cans of starting fluid. Spray it carefully all around the intake manifold while the car is running. It will help you find any vacuum leaks (car will stumble if starting fluid is sucked into the intake).

Check engine light? Let's pull the code. Simple (although I'm not positive on the procedure).

Hard to say on the rough running, but I'd say new plugs, cleaning the intake tract, and making sure there's no vac leaks will help 100%.

Door switch on the pass side is probably binding. Pull the door panel and try to lock electrically and using the inside button.

HVAC control unit may be bad, I'd swap one from a junkyard car to test.

*whew*

Off to a good start, the G20 experts here can take you the rest of the way!

[RED_DET]

I bought a 1995 G20T with 150,000 miles on it & it’s giving me a lot a trouble.

Electrical system:

I couldn’t get the car home without the Alternator going out on it. I also have a loose wire on the positive battery cable & I experience a flickering of electric current from time to time. I also notice that a new positive battery terminal is almost $300. Would the terminal from a 1995 Nissan Sentra 2.0 fit my car as well? It is much less than the G20T terminal.

Engine:

I understand that the 91-93 G20’s suffer from loss of power do to EGR valve & vacuum hose blockage. Is that a problem with my 95” as well?

My check engine light is on & it sometimes goes off when I reconnect the wire that comes out on my battery terminal. Could that be the cause of the light being on?

My engine runs rough & a little loud. I’ve had a timing chain go out in my 240SX and it doesn’t sound like that. Is it something that a tune-up would help?

Door Locks:

I can only lock my passenger side door with the key & only sometimes. I can’t lock it from the inside at all. Could that be a door switch/relay issue?

A/C Heater Control: The blower fan on my A/C Heater only works in the # 4 fan speed, is the controller the problem or could it be something else?

I know this is a lot, but I’m trying to figure out if I should keep this car or not. I very much like the car, but if I can’t keep letting it leave me standing on the side of the road.

I would clean all the terminal connections and ground connections, to include the ground on the thermostat housing. Check to make sure the connections are tight on alternator as well. I'm also stumped on what terminal you are talking about. If you are talking about what connects to the battery, hell you can get one from autozone real cheap.

As far as EGR, all sr20 powered vehicles that were sold in the states have EGR. There are some FAQ about cleaning the EGR. Just follow the step by step right up. I would also do some of the other maintenance write ups as well, to include checking maf voltages and regrounding if necessary. Checking tps voltage and adjusting if necessary. Complete tune up to include plugs, wires, dist cap & button. Check timing to make sure it is set right.

Normally a sign of rough idle is MAF not grounded properly, but ignition problems could be the culprit as well. Explain more when you say the engine is loud?

You need to pull the codes off the ecu to see why the CEL is coming on.

* 1. Locate the ECU (under your dash in the center) and look for a small screw next to a LED (towards the back end). 2. Turn the ignition to the ON position (engine not running). 3. Turn the screw fully clockwise, wait 2 seconds, and then turn it fully counter-clockwise.

The LED will start to display the code by a series of long flashes, followed by a series of short flashes. Your check engine light on the instrument cluster will also flash in the same sequence. This sequence will repeat. *

http://www.nicoclub.com/articl...shtmlYou need OBDII codes.

The passenger side door is something with the lock, which will have to be looked at with door panel off. Sometimes the locking mechanism gets bound up.

The reason your blower only works on the number 4 position is because you need a blower resistor. They are like 20 dollars at nissan or go to junkyard and get one from a g20, sentra, 200sx, 240 will probably work as well. The blower resistor is located directly underneath the glove box. You can get to it very easily, just have to look up from the floor board. Two screws holding it in and a harness attached to it. Guaranteed to fix the problem.

Well that should keep you busy for awhile.

[InitialDerek]

I'd like to thank you very much for your help. I do very much like the car, but these problems are driving me crazy. I'll let you know how it turns out.