1995 300zx 2+2 cannot be aligned to specification

[newbie1]

I looked around on nico, and didn't find what I thought I wanted for a difinitive answer on alignment fixing.

The left front wheel camber is -1.8 deg versus (-0.1 to -1.6) deg specification. The right front wheel camber is -2.1 versus (-1.6 to -0.1) deg specification. The left front wheel caster is 8.7 deg versus (10.4 to 8.9) deg specification. All other alignment measures are in spec. It may be that any alignment shop would get similar numbers as my preferred shop. Ride height measured with a Stanley PowerLock 25' tape indicates ride height is stock.

The two fixes I see are the eccentric bolt fix by a Nissan dealer for $350, or me doing the labor to install front adjustable arms and/or front adjustable tension rods from Powertrix? Would I need both the arms and tension rods? Do related front bushings need replacement, too? Are worn bushings the cause of out-of-alignment specs, or did someone smash into a curb bending some front suspension parts? Since it is late in the day, today, and I'm tired, the $350 fix is enticing.

The car rides like a truck. Does that mean the shocks are worn out, or that the 235/45 ZR 17 Michelins don't have any give on this car even at 30psi? Standard tire is P225/50R16 at 33psi front and 36psi rear. Do most people determine tire pressure on non-stock tires by reading a tire depth gauge over several tens of thousands of miles? I'm thinking tire engineering changes often enough that that method just causes a lot of stress over what pressure to run on non-stock tires. I usually wear my stock tires out in the center when using the recommended pressures on the door tire label. I do almost no open mountain road driving at tire-wearing speeds, as some magazine writers seem to enjoy for testing new cars. So, I look at the dusty wear pattern on the tire on a dry day to determine if the pressure I"m running is going to have the tire wear evenly. Occasionally I'll use my tire depth gauge to see what the wear, side to side, seems to be then adjust pressures accordingly if depths seem inordinately out of balance.

My aim is to fix the alignment problem so that potholes won't affect/knock the alignment out shortly after I get it fixed, if that is a realistic goal. I fixed the shift linkage last winter. Had a new windshield put in a couple months ago since the old one was hard to see out of on a rainy winter night. I need to manually sew some seams coming undone on the back seat. Transmission needs syncro's. Sounds like the differential makes a lot of noise. Was planning to fix the items needing fixing, drive it a while, then sell it on to someone who may want to drive it a while. Be four years before my granddaughter can get her license, so I'm not holding my breath on her wanting a manual transmission vehicle 26 years old by 2021. It passes Oregon Dept of Environmental Quality emission test. All the lights and gauges work. What's not to like, except I can't figure out what designer decided to put suede in a car. Apparently not everyone knows how to make suede last forever, including me.

[z.Leinbach]

If your gonna do suspension work. Do it all and do it all right. Fully adjustable all the way around. And get new anti bump steer tie rods. That should help with the bump steer when it comes to rougher roads. Part of it riding like a truck is partly due to the wheel and tire set up. Larger wheel and lower profile tire set up takes the extra cushion out of the ride.. And as for the transmission. These cars shift in a very clunky fasion to start. So keep that in mind. No sence in throwing money at the car if you plan on selling it

[Destrto]

I am having a similar issue with mine. I was told by an alignment shop that they could or would not do an alignment because the front driver side tire was 1/2" farther back than the passenger. It turns out, the reason for that, is that the driver side inner tie rod was bent. I would check those as well if you haven't already.

I went and bought the whole trio, new inner tie rods, new adjustable tension rods, and new adjustable front upper control arms. Currently looking for a local shop that will do the work.

[DCaff300ZX]

I would definitely suggest an inspection to determine if damage from a collision is the issue with no-alignment, and if not, then yes- go with Powertrix adjustable FUCA's, RUCA's, and tension rods which will adjust to factory spec. Be SURE the installer has all the rubber boots installed with packed grease, and be extra sure the alignment techs follow the tension rod install/adjust instructions to the letter.