1994 q45a with active suspension, is there a replacement kit?

[tnralberta]

Hello I have a 1994 infiniti Q45a with active suspension, It's gone bad is there a after market? thanks

[maxnix]

Better yet, there is texasoil, aka Keith Bowers.

http://www.q45asuspension.com

Read all of his posts! The read all f Q45tech's posts.

[3Q Jay]

active q are not for the faint of heart.hows the rest of car?if you are committed to restoring to oem new, you will be rewarded with a unique car with capabilities few can match even 15 years later.

[Q45tech]

Since Active option cost $4-6,000 one must expect to spend that amount on maintenance and repairs over the 15 year life.

With Texasoil remanned/recharged components one can do a decent rehab for <$3,000 [less with your own labor].

T3 does a cheap and dirty basic conversion to standard for $1600 and a better version for $2200 [used pump replacement and weight reduction by stripping old active lines/modules].

Junkyards will pay ~~$500 for dead active Q.

Something for everyone's price range.

[tnralberta]

Hello I'm looking to replace the struts/shocks and springs with after market, Is there any? I just would like struts/shocks like Tokico Blues or something, I dont want to get any thing liquid filled. I chatted with another tech he said there was a kit but he has to find the part # .

[Rex]

IIRC, the conversion kit + the regular shocks/struts/springs will be very close to the cost of re-habbing the active suspension. Unless yours in completely trashed.

[qship96]

Hello I'm looking to replace the struts/shocks and springs with after market, Is there any? I just would like struts/shocks like Tokico Blues or something, I dont want to get any thing liquid filled. I chatted with another tech he said there was a kit but he has to find the part # .

Yes, theconversion kit with tokiko blues is sold at http://www.everythinginfiniti.com ask for joe

[maxnix]

Yes, theconversion kit with tokiko blues is sold at http://www.everythinginfiniti.com ask for joe

But one has to realize this does not convert the car to a normal G50 Q45, but leaves a lot of dead weight and anomalous accessories that are no longer needed.

If tnralberta will read the suggested posts and speak with Keith, the decision will be much more clear and informed.

[tnralberta]

Thanks for the info I'm still learning about computers and sites. you guys are very helpfull.

[tnralberta]

The rest of the car is almost perfect Its pearl white with peanut butter leather, all power. But when I looked in the active suspension there is no fluid and the struts are wet. but she pers like a kitten even has AC. well thanks again guys for the info.

[maxnix]

email Keith. You can rebuild youors for what it costs to convert the suspension only, and less than to convert the whole car. YOU have a unique automobile, and you will be surprised when it is even 50% repaired with just 5 new accumulators. Don't drive it until you do!

[tnralberta]

hELLO who is keith and what is his email address, and what do I ask him. thanks

[Q451990]

hELLO who is keith and what is his email address, and what do I ask him. thanks

Follow the link Maxnix posted in the second post in this thread.

Heath

[dpq45]

Hello all, this is my second thread and am new to this forum ....I was searching this thread to get some possib answers to my quest....I have a 92 q45 and is a great car but has a blown engine, yep chain guides, now i know....I thinkn about buying a 91q45A with descent low miles on engine with owner says the suspension is shot....can i move the front and rear struts from my Q to an active Q, would i be changing any more parts ?? i tried the quicklinks from the second thread and they didnt work, anyone have updated web sites??

thks for any advise Damian

[jgauspohl]

If you need parts for this lmk I can get u all corners and the modules for $200

[Q451990]

Yes, the active Q can be retrofitted to the non-active shocks. I'm not sure what's involved, but I do know the power steering pump on the active is different because it doubles as the active system fluid pump - so it's basically two pumps in one. Most conversions that I've seen have the active fluid just looped back to the pump - because that pump uses a different belt than the pump on a non-active Q. If you were to swap out the harmonic balancer as well as the pump, I suspect you could convert to the non-active p/s pump as well.

Heath

[maxnix]

Lots of differences between active and non. If you just switch out shocks and springs, you will still be toting about 150 lbs. of dead weight.

[trobbinsfromoz]

I am aiming on swapping out the active shocks and springs for standard issue, and looping back the pressurised circuits. That seems to me to be the simplest process as it doesn't require swapping the power steering pump.

But that process doesn't appear to be written up too well on the forum, especially with respect to what are the minimum changes that can be got away with (eg. leaving as much as possible of the active parts and hydraulics in place), and what active sensors (eg. heights), flow control valves and warning messages need to be appreciated and allow the active controller to just sit there thinking all is fine.

For many, dead weight and checking that the hydraulics were still 'ok' would be of no issue, and if some enthusiast in the future wants to re-instate the active suspension then its mostly ready to go.

Has anybody been down this road as diy ?

[trobbinsfromoz]

From the FSM, it appears that removing the 15A fuse #27 will operate the fail safe valve to link the supply pressure line to th return pressure line. This indicates that the supply and return pressure lines to the four wheel actuators can be just plugged. The warning light will be continuously on.

The parasitic mechanical loading of the plunger pump is likely to be pressure related. The FSM indicates the supply control pressure is regulated to 668 psi when in fail safe mode. It may be that the supply pressure can be lowered by locking open the three bypass valves on the multivalve and front and rear cpressure control units.

Anyone know what the two pump solenoids actually do? A previous post has indicated that "the pump output gas accumulator incorporates a pressure switch which opens/closes the solenoids that allow active oil into the pump. Pump solenoid closed = no pump horsepower consumption." Does this mean that the two solenoids each operate a valve on suction inlets to the pump? The FSM is pretty much silent on their operation, although error codes 44 & 54 are aligned with each solenoid. The suggestion is also that if the two solenoids are closed (perhaps this is default state when fuse #27 is removed) then no oil gets sucked in to the pump cylinder compartments, and the pump plungers then do no usefull work.

Patent US5103397 shows one solenoid is likely to control a high to low presssure bypass valve (with integral restrictor), and works in conjunction with a pilot operated bypass valve to control the supply pressure.

[trobbinsfromoz]

Patent US5261455 shows a nice description of the Multivalve unit, which includes the controlled solenoid identified in US5103397

[trobbinsfromoz]

The post I must have missed that is pertinent is:
please-help-with-some-active-conversion ... 20149.html
I guess the comment to disconnect the solenoids refers to disconnecting all the control valve coils (x6) and the (x2) pump solenoids, as that could minimise controller power consumption.

I can't seem to find the picture "front pump loop" from redmanfx that is identified in:
search.php?st=0&sk=t&sd=d&sr=posts&author_id=15036
That may help indicate if the 'loop back' becomes a closed loop without any may to check loop oil level apart from opening the loop.