1994 Q45 Rear Brakes - Need Help

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1995Pathfinder
Posts: 29
Joined: Sun Jan 19, 2003 9:02 am

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This past weekend I changed my rear brake pads and I noticed that the left rear pads were not worn down equally on the same axel - the pad was worn down on the bottom, but the top of the pad looked like it wasn't even touching. I removed the caliper assembly which included the torque member to take it apart on the bench and clean it up. I removed the lower pin bolt without any trouble then tried to remove the upper pin bolt, but could not. In fact, I could not even turn the bolt so I mounted the caliper and torque member assembly into a vise to see if I could turn the upper bolt. I managed to turn the bolt, but no way could I get the pin out. I thought maybe the pin was to push out once unscrewing the threaded portion, so I even tried to hammer it out with a punch and that did not work. Please let me know if the caliper is suppose to float on this pin like the front does. The right rear was also stiff and I could not remove that either. I did what I could and had the rotors cut and assembled everything. The car drives fine, but I smell a burning (smells like something electrical burning) and I assume that this is a combination of the new brake pads, plus the rotor heating up. The left rear wheel is very hot and the right rear appears fine. I can not believe that the caliper could slide on the upper bolt with as tight as it is and therefore the uneven wear on the pads. Here is the question. Should the caliper slide freely on the upper bolts for the rear wheels like the front? And if so, how in the hell do I get that pin out? Can I screw it out all the way and then hammer it out with a punch? I was afraid hitting too hard when I had it apart for the fear of breaking something. Please let me know. I need some help. Thank you.


fxjackso
Posts: 354
Joined: Thu Jul 25, 2002 3:17 am

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I had the same experience on my previous Q. I was able to heat the pin with a torch while still in the caliper; it came loose and could be pulled out. I ordered a new pin and everything worked fine. Obviously this procedure can be problematic- since the caliper has plasitic seals. I tested it with compressed air before reassembly and it worked fine, and continued to do so for 50k miles.

You can't drive around like this. You must take it apart and get the pin out, or invest in a rebuilt caliper(s).

And for those of you who have not had this happen- when you check the brake pads pull the pin out and relube it. Cheap insurance!

Q45tech
Moderator
Posts: 14296
Joined: Tue Apr 30, 2002 3:19 am
Car: 1990 Q45 342,400 miles 22 years ownership with original engine
1995 G20t 5 speed 334,000 miles 16" 2002 wheels - 205/50/16 Sr20ve vvl

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When ever I replace my pads I change the caliper pins as many of the greases used [by discount shops] are not good enough to stand the heat and even the expensive grease we use barely makes it 30,000 miles.............keep the old dirty pins and clean up later for re install next time.

Never have replaced the seals or calipers in 250,000 miles but lots of clean up..............have changed all the flex brake lines twice as I never trust them after 100k..........not to say they will fail and leak but why take a chance.

Qgrappler
Posts: 78
Joined: Thu Jul 25, 2002 11:16 am

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Q45tech

Do you use oem when you change the flexible lines or is there an upgraded product?

Thanks


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