1994 Nissan Maxima SE 5sp - No Start Issue

[Agustinjr]

I have a plug to the right side (as you look at it from the front) of engine that was just hanging out of place. It has two thick red wires with a resistor in between. When I tried inserting it back, I believe I broke the resistor (unless it was like that already). I wanted to add a picture to this posting but when I click on the "Img" button it does not give me the option to insert the picture. Anyway, I'm just hoping that someone can help me identify what it is as it seems to come from a harness but not sure.

[maxhopper]

Welcome to NICO.

You'll need to host the picture on photobucket or something similar, then copy the image url into the image tags.

[Agustinjr]

Thanks for the reply. I went ahead and posted images at photobucket.com

[maxhopper]

Fixed your post so the images would show.

To me, it looks like the plug connector just came apart.

Let me see if I can get our resident 3rd gen expert in here to take a look.

[Agustinjr]

Thank you!

[elwesso]

That does not look like the way the connetor is supposed to be. You can see the pins in the other side of the connector so it looks like someone jammed a resistor in there to try and band-aid fix something. Any idea what is for?

[elwesso]

I really dug through the FSM in various wiring diagrams, and I'm having a hard time figuring out what that connector could be.. It would really help if I knew the color wires that were on that connector.. I was originally thinking it would have something to do with the cooling fans but now I'm not sure.. It looks like one wire is a white wire, can you confirm what the other one is? Be sure to try and notice if there's a stripe on the wires, I need to know that, like if it's a white wire with a red stripe or something..

Are you experiencing any issues with the car?

[WDRacing]

If the car doesn't have aftermarket parts installed, I don't know what function the resistor would have other then stopping the ecu from giving you a fault code. I'd pull the resistor out, it's definitely not stock, and see if you get a check engine light when the plug is reconnected. It's a simple two wire plug, so it can't be that many different sensors. Trace the wires back to the sensor and let us know what it is, or take another pic.

[Agustinjr]

I hope I added the pictures correctly. The color of the wires is black and white and as you can see from the picture is attached to the harness that runs across top of engine. I also pulled the resistor as you can see in two pieces. I plugged it without the resistor, connected the battery, but will not crank at all. It has been dead for 3 months. The starter and the battery both checked out to be good.

[WDRacing]

When you say it won't crank, do you mean that when you turn the key to "start" the motor won't even turn over? Or that it won't start?

[Agustinjr]

When I turned the key, the motor will not turn. No clicks, no sound whatsoever. When the problem first started, I was able to get it to start twice on two different occasions and I would let it run for 15-20 minutes in case it was a charging problem. But as soon as I turned it of, when I tried to start it back again it would not even turn the motor. I would hear a clicking sound on a disc shape part next to ABS manifold on the left side of engine compartment. It doesn't make this click sound anymore. The headlights and interior lights and the alarm do work. I started to check fuses. They look good. I then pulled each of the relays that had the word ignition and re-seat them. I disconnected the started, pulled it out, which was a painful experience as I have nerve pain on my hands, and then took it to AutoZone for their "free" testing. It checked out good. I reinstalled it. I then pulled my 6 months old Gold Duralast battery and AutoZone found it was good and fully charged. So I don't know where to go from here.

[maxhopper]

After looking at the manual a bit more, I'm pretty sure that connector is for the knock sensor. See the second picture down on page EF&EC 330 http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Maxima/1994/ec.pdf. It's likely gone bad so someone put a resistor in there to keep the check engine light from coming on. Unfortunately, a bad knock sensor is not going to keep the engine from starting.

[maxhopper]

It could possibly be a bad clutch interlock switch causing the starter not to crank.

See page CL-3 for location on clutch pedal. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Maxima/1994/cl.pdf

[Agustinjr]

Thanks for the quick replies. I have the FSM manual and must agree that the connector is the knock sensor. Tomorrow I will test the continuity. As for the clutch interlock switch, I'll also check it tomorrow and see if this is the culprit. Thanks for giving me a starting point to try solving my "no start" problem.

[Agustinjr]

Continuity of knock sensor checked ok. I also checked to make sure there was output from the battery which it is at >12V. I went on to check a fuse box to the left of the battery [fuse box-2 (see it on page EL-166 of the service manual]. I thought the 100 Amps "main" fuse was blown. When I tried to pull it I was not able to. I assumed it had melted and maybe fused to the box. With pliers I just ended up breaking the plastic casing of the fuse. That's when I noticed the fuse was good. The fusible metal link turned out to be black which due to my poor vision I did not see. I ended buying one at Advance Auto Parts <http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp ... -+100+amps#>.

Now as for the clutch interlock switch, you were right on it. I was not sure if it was located in the engine compartment or inside the cabin but found it is to the left of the clutch pedal. The switch was easily visible. When I pressed the clutch I noticed that there is some sort of metal plate that is suppose to push in the switch but it was not. I wedged a piece of wood between the switch and the pedal and you were right, it cranked. Sadly that's as far as it got, but at least it cranks. I attempted several times to start it, let it crank for more than 10-15 seconds but nothing. I checked the harness from the battery to the starter and all plugs are plugged in their respective sockets. I'm thinking about trying to let it roll backwards and try starting it with quick release of the clutch

[Agustinjr]

I just looked at page CL-4 of the service manual (picture #2) and see that there is suppose to be "pedal stopper rubber" which I did not see. I'm trying to see if this is a part that I can get at AutoZone or Advance Auto Parts but so far no luck. Does anyone know what would be the part number?

[maxhopper]

I would imagine it's a dealer only part. I would probably just try to improvise something.

[Elusivemax93]

It is a Dealer only part work at autozone and most our parts for the VE30DE with 5 speed its mostly dealer. I do have information luckily on parts hard to find I have had to find already.

[OwnerCS]

When the clutch switch bumper crumbled on the 95 Maxima 5-speed, and later for a brake stop light switch, I went to Ace Hardware and bought a nylon screw with nylon bolt and stainless washer that fit inside and closed the hole. Over 2 years later it still works.