When running the diagnostic today, I got a Code 51. Injector Circuit.

I determined (via the remove the coil wire) test, and I am pretty sure that I have 2 dead cylinders. Weird because the engine actually runs pretty good even with 2 dead cylinders.

Must one actually pull the plenum to remove / replace / test injectors ?


Modified by leerandallstewart at 4:39 PM 1/12/2010

http://s95014253.onlinehome.us/63104/155253.html

If it's one of the 1st 4

UPDATE:

I just put the Ohm Meter on my injectors, and they all read fairly consistent across the board. 12.6, 12.7. Nothing high, nothing low. Even the suspected "bad" units were 12.7.

I know that as long as they ohm out between 10,0 and 14.0 you should be ok.

Ideas?

I have one of those super duper injector cleaner kits that you hang from the hood - I am gonna try it out tomorrow and see if I can get all injectors to squirt some juice. I think it needs to be in the 40 psi range - does that sound right?

You may have a poor connection on one or more if they test ok. The ECU throwing a code means something and needs to be corrected. Are all of the connectors clean or corroded? That's all it takes. What injector cleaner do you have?

If it's not corroded connectors, then it would most likely be a broken wire somewhere. My money would be on corroded injectors throwing an alternate voltage to the ECU though. Does the idle change when you pull coil pack plugs?

No...the idle did not change when I pulled two coil packs (#3 and #5). I replaced those coil packs (I have a full set of spares) and it did not change anything. That's when I did the Ohm test.

WHen doing the ohm test, I had to rub the connectors really hard on the injectors to get a reading, so I do suspect some corrosion or something. I am going to do a full injector cleaning, clean all the connectors real good, re-test with the ohm meter, test again by pulling coil packs, and pray that something works. I'm also gonna try spinning the CAS to see if I can hear the injectors squirting.

I don;t know the name of the injector cleaner I have - I paid about $100 for it though. Aluminum cannister that you fill with the cleaner. IT has aan air fitting, a regulator for air pressure, a stop c*** valve, and a biunch of fittings to fit on to various fuel rails, hoses, etc. The cleaner I use most is from Napa - it costs about $8.00 per bottle. Really good stuff.

I have found this cleaner is the best of them all. It works miracles and is safe for plastic. Use a dental pick and tiny file to clean the surfaces, then contact cleaner, and finally dielectric grease to protect them

http://www.mgchemicals.com/products/801b.html

Hmmm....I have never used that contact cleaner before. The stuff I have used has been from Radio Shack - probably not near as good as the stuff you mention. I will try it.

cleaning corrosion FTW...brought my injector Ohms back to perfect specs

OK - I think that the code is gone now - the check engin e light is off, and the car is running much better. I am going to reset the computer today and see what comes up, if anything.

It must have been the corrosion on the injectors. I cleaned them all really good and the ohm out much better and easier now. Prior to cleaning, a couple of injectors would not give me ohm reading because the corrosion was so bad.

I used a very small file for the injectors, and a really small cone shaped file for the connectors on the harness. They worked very well. Followed up with some contact cleaner, a wire brush, and 100PSI from the air nozzle.

I think I am going to buy the new wiring harness connectors / pigtains and splice them in though. The connectors are pretty bad - all the clips are missing and some of the plastic is beat to hell.