1993 Maxima with a few issues (AC Fan, Temp Gauge, Stalls)

[Rex]

Okay, I'm been "fiddling around" with my 1993 Maxima SE off and on for a couple years. It's got a few issues and is a spare car, so unfortunately, it doesn't get the constant attention it deserves.

First - Stall/Cutout
From time to time it will stall/cut out, but generally never completely dies. I've cleaned the MAF and tried disconnecting it to see and there is a difference when it's disconnected completely. It idles almost the same w/ or w/out, but w/out it won't rev past about 2500 rpms. Though that's about the engine speed when it stalls/cuts out. I've cleaned and tightened the connections and added some "straps" to maintain a secure connection, yet it still has stalled/cutout a couple times since. The best description I can give is as if the fuel or spark shuts off completely for 0.5 seconds, sometimes alternating back and forth for a total of 2 or 3 seconds, then everything is okay again. As fate would have it, it usually happens when I'm pulling out into traffic or starting off up an incline.

Second - Temp Gauge
The temp gauge is very jumpy at times. Most often before the car is fully warmed or when hitting a rough patch/bumpy section of roadway. Doesn't seem to effect to operation of the car in anyway, just want to make sure it's not the harbinger of something "bad".

Third - AC Fan
I can't recall if the fan ever worked inn all 4 speeds, but I know (up until just this past week) it would work on the "4" setting. Now, the fan does not operate at all. I'm guessing this is a somewhat common problem (kind of like the darlington resistor in a Q45), but was hoping someone knew the exact part and maybe even has a "How to" link some where.

Overall, the car's been good to me, I've only had to put a battery and starter in it.

I appreciate any help you guys have.

[MinisterofDOOM]

For the HVAC blower, the Max uses the same variable resistor as the Q, in the same spot. Behind the glove box. I have two or three around I snagged from junkyard cars, but I have no idea which work, if any. Most early 90s Nissans all used that same part, so I'd just head to the junkyard and see what you can find.
BUT...the resistor is supposed to fail to open (it actually fails to ultra-super-crazy-high, faster than the "4" setting) so your problem might be elsewhere. Although from what I've read in some of the Q discussions on the matter, the bad resistor can, over time, kill the blower motor. So maybe that's what happened for you. If you can get a known-good resistor, I'd try that first as a diagnostic.
Of course, another option would be to swap in a manual climate control unit and bypass the variable resistor completely.

I hate stall/stumble problems...so hard to track down. If it tends to happen under heavy throttle, I wonder if maybe your fuel pump isn't keeping up with demand? I wrote a really detailed writeup covering fuel pump replacement years ago if you want to try that route. I'd let the VE-gurus chime in, too, though; I don't know it nearly as well as I do the VG.

As for the temp gauge, have you tried bleeding the coolant system to get any air out? Air pockets are a common culprit in bouncy temp gauges.

[NutriaforBreakfast]

For stall outs check the emmissions equipment first. PCV valve, EGR valves, actuators, Egr tubing
Items might have carbon in them and need cleaning out.

[MaximA32]

What ^^ said. Check the EGR guide tube specifically as that's a common spot for the Max. You can usually pick one up from a dealer for $25-30

[Rex]

Thanks guys, I've been chasing the MAF as the stalling issue, I'm glad to have some other ideas.

Really appreciate it.

[Chris92SE]

Probably 80 percent of the time the stalling issues with the VE are caused by bad coil packs. They can be tough to chase down because they will fail under load. That means, they test out OK, but when you put a load on them, they won't work properly. Putting them "under load" usually means leaving from a stop, going up a hill, passing, etc.

If you are lucky, just one of the front ones is cracked enough to cause problems and you can tape it up. Usually, though, the internal stuff starts to fail and you just need to replace them. If you shop around, they are about $60 each at some parts stores. Sometimes you can get a set from a wrecked car/junk yard, ebay, etc, for considerably less. At least you should be able to mix and match until you get a "set" that doesn't cause stalling. Over $300 for a new set is fairly steep.

Not sure on the temp gauge, but either the gauge is wonky (this sounds like the most likely problem) or you could have a bad coolant temp sensor. Usually when the CTS goes, the fans turn on all the time and sometimes your idle will surge. The entire time I have owned my car, the only code the ECU put out was for a bad CTS and it was definitely acting crazy. These are about $15-$20 and very easy to replace.