I realize now that the J is notorious for sunroofs failing and I fall in that category. I took it inot my local mechanic and he said that it would cost too much to repair and I really want to get it fixed. I just bought the car from an auction for $4000 wih 82k and that is the only problem with it. Any ideas of where I can get it fixed cheap or the cause of the J's infamous problem?

Thanks,Dan

Here. Do it yourself.

"There is a sunroof repair kit available P/N 91350-10Y20. Call TJ or Tom it should be less than $40. This kit fits all J30s. FRT is 4.6 hrs. - SERVICE INFORMATION

If an applied vehicle exhibits the following symptoms, use the service procedure below to resolve the incident(s).- Sunroof binds - Sunroof motor runs but the sunroof will not open or close - Sunroof leaks 1. Operate or move the sunroof until it reaches the fully closed position (not tilted position). 2. Remove the sunroof lid (glass), sunroof shade, and headliner. Refer to the BT section of the applicable service manual. 3. Remove the sunroof rail assembly from the vehicle and place it on a flat working surface. IMPORTANT: Observe the following cautions when handling or working on the sunroof rail assembly.- Do not pick the sunroof rail assembly up by the drain tray as damage may occur to the drain tray (see Figure 2). - Do not place the sunroof rail assembly on its end as damage to the corner drains may occur (see Figure 3). - Do not press on the sunroof rail assembly cross members as they may bend (see Figure 4). 4. Remove the motor from the sunroof rail assembly. 5. Confirm the closed position marks on the motor are lined up with each other (see Figure 5). A. If the closed position marks are lined up, proceed with step 6. B. If the closed position marks are not lined up, turn the motor adjustment screw (see Figure 5) until the marks are aligned, then proceed with step 6. 6. Remove the stoppers from the rear of the sunroof rail assembly as follows: A. Loosen (but do not remove) the screw in the end of the stopper (see Figure 6). B. Remove the screw on the top of the stopper (see Figure 6). C. Slide the stopper out of the sunroof rail assembly (see Figure 6). 7. Remove the drain tray as follows: A. Remove two screws that secure the drain tray to the drain guides (see Figure 7). B. Lift up and pull forward on the front of the drain tray to remove it from the drain guides (see Figure 7). 8. Insert a screwdriver and pull each guide out of the sunroof rail assembly until the cable is removed (see Figure 8). The drain guide will come out automatically as the guide is removed. NOTE: If the old cable is broken, wait to remove it when you install the new cables (see step 16). It is easier than fishing it out now.9. Remove any debris found in the sunroof rail after the cable is removed. Also, carefully smooth out any burrs or nicks on the sunroof rail with a file. NOTE: Do not remove the existing grease from the sunroof rail, but only remove the debris. Also, do not use any cleaners/solvents on the sunroof rail.NOTE: When filing burrs or nicks, use caution not to get metal filings in the sunroof rail grease. Cover the grease with a rag or with tape.10. If damaged or missing, install new guide links in the guide link slots (see Figure 9). NOTE: Step 11 below only applies to I30 and QX4.11. If damaged or missing, install two new front silencers (see Figure 10). NOTE: Steps 12 and 13 below only apply to QX4.12. Install the new damper (on the empty metal tab) on the rear of the sunroof rail assembly (see Figure 11). NOTE: When installing the damper, first insert the front portion of the damper into the hole in the cross member, then push the damper over the metal tab until it is fully seated.13. Install two additional resistors on the sunroof rail assembly (see Figure 12). NOTE: Most QX4 vehicles already have two resistors mounted to either the front or rear of the sunroof rail assembly. Install two additional resistors (provided in the kit) so the sunroof rail assembly has four resistors when you are done.14. Install the new white plastic shoes on the new rear guide assemblies (see Figure 13). NOTE: Install the white plastic shoes so the tabs face each other (see Figure 13).15. Apply silicone grease 16. Install the new rear guides as follows: A. Slide the rear guide cable into the sunroof rail assembly. NOTE: The passenger side rear guide cable slides into the outside rail track and the driver side rear guide cable slides into the inside rail track (see Figure 14).NOTE: If the original cable was broken and still remains in the sunroof rail assembly, push the new cable into the sunroof rail assembly until it pushes the broken cable to the guide link slot, then use pliers to pull the old cable out through the slot (see Figure 15).B. First, insert the front of the new rear guide into the sunroof rail (see Figure 16), then pull the guide towards the front of the sunroof rail assembly until the rear guide slides into the sunroof rail (see Figure 17). Make sure the mold pin is placed on top of the rail (see Figure 18) when inserting the rear guide. NOTE: Squeeze the tabs on the white shoes together while inserting the rear guide into the sunroof rail.17. Verify the rear guides slide smoothly and quietly in the sunroof rail assembly, then move the guides completely forward. 18. Insert the new drain guides into the rear of the sunroof rail assembly as follows: A. Push the stopper in the "A" direction while squeezing the clips in the "B" direction (see Figure 19). B. Insert the drain guide into the end of the sunroof rail assembly (see Figure 19) and slide it forward until it snaps into the cut-out in the rail. 19. Re-install the rear stoppers. 20. Wipe off the sunroof cross members with a clean cloth. 21. Wipe any debris out of the drain channels (troughs). See Figure 19 above. 22. Move the rear guide until the holes on the rear guide and link line up with each other (see Figure 20). 23. Insert a 3 mm punch or pin through the holes to make sure they are completely aligned (see Figure 20). 24. Re-install the motor on the sunroof rail assembly. NOTE: Make sure the closed position marks on the motor are still lined up with each other before installing the motor on the sunroof rail assembly. If necessary, turn the motor adjustment screw until the marks are aligned.25. Re-install the sunshade in the sunroof rail assembly. Refer to the BT section of the applicable service manual. NOTE: The sunshade brackets ride on the lower, longer slots in the rail.26. Re-install the drain tray (see Figure 7).27. Re-install the sunroof rail assembly in the vehicle. Refer to the BT section of the applicable service manual. 28. Wipe off the outer rubber seal on the sunroof lid (glass). NOTE: Do not use cleaners/solvents to clean the sunroof outer rubber seal as they can cause the rubber to dry out and crack.29. Re-install the sunroof lid (glass). 30. Check the operation of the sunroof. 31. Re-install the headliner."

This post needs to be turned into a document file and posted in a way that we can get to it whenever it is needed. Many other detailed posts deserve the same treatment.

My sunroof sometimes halts about 1/2 way open, and other times just makes an audible clunk and hesitates but moves on its way.

I bought the car used, but was able to get a service history printout from the dealer.

It turns out it was in for this problem at least twice during the warranty period of the car, and both time the tech's notes for fixing it were "adjusted sunshade"

What praytell can you adjust on the sunshade and how does one go about doing it? It sounds like I don't need a rebuild, but just some sunshade tweaking again...

Norbus

The Tech probably adjusted the sunroof motor clutch, there is a nut with lock washer on the motor that can be tightened to reduce slip. This slippage is in case someone is in the way of the sunroof closing, not something that can be set easily in the field.

Window failure is usually related to motor problems on the J. Have you lubricated the run channels with silicone?

No I haven't, Professor_Mike. I don't really know what the run-channels are? Do you mean the rubber seals exposed to the outside to prevent water from leaking into the cabin? And by silicone, do you mean a can of WD-40? I'm glad you told me it was not the regulator, because I have read soooo many posts that said I should replace the regulator before the motor goes bad. But I have always suspected that it would be the motor, as it always has been on six other cars I used to own.

Run channels are the rubber channels that that the window slides in. I would suggest you go to an auto parts store and get a can of silicone spray, better for this than WD40. Most INFINITI's have regulator failures but the J has more motor failures. Unfortunately the motor is more expensive. Sometimes the regulator develops play and allows the window to bind in the channel, loosening the bolts for the window to regulator connection and repositioning the window can help. You will have to make the final decision what is wrong.