1993 d21 v6 not starting after head gaskets

[ash10hunt]

So I'm at quite a loss for what's going on with my 93 hard body v6. I had low compression so I spent a few weeks redoing the head gaskets in my free time. I finally got everything reassembled last weekend and went to start the truck with fresh fluids and everything, yet it wouldn't start. It cranked, but it wouldn't start. I sprayed starter fluid in the intake and that got it to sputter. That along with the fuel pump making weird noises led me to believe it was the fuel pump so I replaced that. (I know it's not good to throw parts at it but oh well.) I tried starting it again to no avail before realizing the lines from the fuel filter were swapped. I fixed that and then it stopped even cranking. I turn the key and nothing happens. Here's what I've done to diagnose so far:
- checked all fuses
- charger battery
- tried different battery
- checked ECU for faults, got code 55 (no faults)
- checked out
- checked clutch button thing on floor
- double checked spark plug order
I can't check for spark, compression, or fuel bc nothing turns on, except headlights, interior stuff, etc.
I'm really out of ideas, anything helps.
Thank you

[VStar650CL]

First, put a test light on the starter solenoid terminal. If it doesn't light up when an assistant turns the key, you know there's some break in the circuit between the ignition switch and the solenoid. If it does light up, put the lamp on the threaded stud (not the nut or cable lug) of the main starter terminal. If that dims substantially or goes out with the key then there's an issue in your cabling. If it stays bright then you can be pretty confident your starter went south.

On a D21 there's a pretty fair chance you blew a fusible link during repairs. If there's no solenoid signal, that's the first thing to check.

[ash10hunt]

Thanks for the reply.
I ended up taking my starter out to clean it up and took it to O'Reilly's to test it. They said it worked just fine so I'm guessing my issue is hiding elsewhere.

[Niti QX4]

FAST
Fuel, Air, Spark, Timing.
Have you checked your distributor for proper installation and plug wires in the correct places?

[AZhitman]

I'm gonna go with the fusible link theory, sounds like the engine harness isn't seeing power.

[ash10hunt]

It was 100% fusible link. I spent $20 for a new one and it cranks again. However now I'm back to my initial problem of it cranking, but not starting. My ECU now shows a code 12 (MAF problems). I used some MAF cleaner but it didn't fix it. Would a faulty MAF be enough to keep it from starting completely?
Also thanks a ton for the fusible link suggestion, it would've taken me forever to track that down.

[VStar650CL]

Try unplugging the MAF. When the old school MAF's cause issues, the engine will often start/run better with it disconnected. If that happens, you know that's your issue. If not, take @Niti's suggestion and check all the basics.

[ash10hunt]

I tried unplugging the MAF and it led to no change. I started looking into Niti's suggestion by evaluating the timing, since that's what made me most worried about this whole head gasket job. It looked like the passengers side camshaft sprocket was off a tooth, so I readjusted it, then set the belt again and tensioned it. It still won't start and I've reset the belt multiple times, but it just seems to be skipping a tooth. Is it normal for it to appear that way? I figured it's supposed to line up exactly every time.

[VStar650CL]

Not sure what you mean by skipping, but once the engine has been spun, the cam and crank marks aren't going to line up with marks on the belt anymore except by fortuitous accident. They'll only line up every "N" revolutions with N being determined by the length of the belt and not the cam:crank ratio, which is always 2. If you did it by the book and lined up the pulley and block matchmarks with the crank on TDC #1, then where any markings on the belt land don't matter.

The most common mistakes causing no-starts after timing work on old school engines all involve the distributor or wires and not the belt.

[ash10hunt]

Sorry I did not explain that well, I know the belt won't line up with the sprocket marks after turning the engine.
The passenger side camshaft sprocket seems to be a tooth off from the mark on the engine if that makes sense, while the driver's side is lined up at TDC.
Again, maybe that's a negligible amount, and both passenger and driver sides are both slightly off, and I'm just not finding TDC super exactly.

[VStar650CL]

If you think the alignment might be wrong, count teeth. On a VG30E, you should have 40 between the marks on the cam sprockets, 43 from the the lefthand cam mark to the crank mark, 50 from the righthand cam mark to the crank mark.

[ash10hunt]

Yeah I've counted the teeth each time. I've just been following the service manual as closely as possible.

[VStar650CL]

If the teeth are right and the initial marks were right then nothing is jumped, your problem has to be elsewhere.

[ash10hunt]

Ok that's good to know. I'm not super experienced when it comes to timing, so it's good to get a more practiced opinion. Thanks.

[VStar650CL]

You're most welcome. Out-of-order wires are probably the most common error with timing jobs in general, I'd double-check that next. Even two of six swapped will usually cause a no-start.