1993 240sx s13 Bleeding sequence

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John16
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Car: 1993 Nissan 240SX hatchback

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Im about to change my two rear calipers and i see different ways on the sequence to bleed your brake system. Is it RR - RL - FR - FL? no ABS. Any advice will be appreciated..


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NukeKS14
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Download a copy of the factory service manual. It has a lot of good info including this. Link is in the top bar there.

Left rear
Right rear
Left front
Right front

John16
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Car: 1993 Nissan 240SX hatchback

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So I have done the bleeding sequence and all that according to the manual. Still not getting any good results. I think once I pump the breaks I have to keep them pressed with a wheel steering lock or something that leaves them pressed while i go and lock the valve,.Any advice?

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VStar650CL
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You always have to close the bleed fitting before releasing the pedal, otherwise you're vacuuming back in the air you just pumped out. When I have to bleed brakes solo in a driveway, I use a long prybar wedged between the pedal and the seat cushion to keep the pedal depressed while I close the fitting. It's a royal PITA but it works. You're much better off finding an assistant if at all possible.

John16
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Car: 1993 Nissan 240SX hatchback

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No assistant needed, Got my steering wheel lock. It's just the fact the instructions that comes with these one man bleeder kits says nothing about keeping the pedal depressed since the little tube that comes with it once it gets fluid in it supposedly wont get any air in.

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VStar650CL
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Then it sounds like the 1-way valve in the bleed kit isn't working or your problem is a bad master cylinder. Once most of the air is pushed out, the pedal shouldn't come all the way back up when using a 1-way. It should return a little and then the 1-way should pull vacuum and stop it.

It's also possible you tore the seals in the Master if you were pushing the pedal to the floor. Masters all build up a ring of crud in the area where the pedal usually stops, and pushing to the floor while bleeding forces the cups over the crud. I always recommend stopping about halfway to be safe. If a seal is torn, the Master will "bypass" fluid back into the reservoir and you'll get a soft, sinking pedal even with all the air out. You can diagnose that by plugging the Master outlet ports. If the pedal sinks with the ports plugged, the cups are shot.

John16
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Car: 1993 Nissan 240SX hatchback

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Will update as soon as I get this straight up! Also I see a very useful tool which is the Motive Products - 0107 Power Pressure Brake Bleeder for Ford and Asian Cars in whick you connected trhu the master cylinder, that will be my next step if i can't get it straight with the one man bleeding method.

John16
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Car: 1993 Nissan 240SX hatchback

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Still nothing has worked for me. Did the One man method. Now I got me the motive bleeder from amazon which goes attached to your master cylinder but the adapter does not fit the Master Cylinder. Which one which one will work on my s13?

John16
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Car: 1993 Nissan 240SX hatchback

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Well the motive bleeder worked like a charm. Great bleeding tool.

John16
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Ok! So I decided to install new power brake booster and new Master Cylinder. I had the master cylinder bled (bench bled) but i did it while i had it installed and plugged the master outlet ports. Anyway im getting a spongy pedal dont now why. I bled the master cylinder then the whole system and i used the motive bleeder product which is by pressure and there was no leaks it hold pressure at 15 psi all the time. Humm what could it be. Any advise?

:gotme :wtf2:

John16
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Car: 1993 Nissan 240SX hatchback

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Sorry for the New Thread for my brakes issues but is just not the sequence on how to bleed the brake system. Ok! So I decided to install new power brake booster and new Master Cylinder. I had the master cylinder bench bled (bench bled) but i did it while i had it installed and plugged the master outlet ports. Got rid of the air there. After that I bled the whole system and i used the motive bleeder product which is by pressure and there was no leaks it held pressure at 15 psi all the time. Humm still getting a spongy pedal doesn't make any sense what could it be. Everything by the book and still no good....Any advise?

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Rogue One
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John16 wrote:
Wed Sep 14, 2022 11:15 pm
Sorry for the New Thread for my brakes issues but is just not the sequence on how to bleed the brake system. Ok! So I decided to install new power brake booster and new Master Cylinder. I had the master cylinder bench bled (bench bled) but i did it while i had it installed and plugged the master outlet ports. Got rid of the air there. After that I bled the whole system and i used the motive bleeder product which is by pressure and there was no leaks it held pressure at 15 psi all the time. Humm still getting a spongy pedal doesn't make any sense what could it be. Everything by the book and still no good....Any advise?
I know you'd like to get this resolved, but there was no need to start a new topic as this was already asked in your current one, and has stemmed from the work you've done so far. Topics merged.

John16
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Joined: Sat May 28, 2022 3:05 am
Car: 1993 Nissan 240SX hatchback

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Well just to follow up on my braking issues. I just installed my 2nd master cylinder to see and check that is not a faulty master cylinder I got first. This is including the original master cylinder, and now this is going to be the third master cylinder to see if it works since the second one seems faulty. My system holds pressure so there's no leak. Power brake booster is new. All 4 calipers new. Rotors and brake are pads new. I'm bleeding it according to manual (sequence), I've use every single method. I even got me the pressure bleeder from motive which is a great product. Oh I have bench bled the master cylinder as well. So what is wrong or what am I doing wrong, hummmmgot no clue? Well I guess after installing the new master cylinder coming today and fail, I'll have to give up and take it to the shop. $$$$ down it goes. Any advice? thanks

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Car: 1990 Nissan 240SX

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John16 wrote:
Sun Sep 18, 2022 8:21 am
Well just to follow up on my braking issues. I just installed my 2nd master cylinder to see and check that is not a faulty master cylinder I got first. This is including the original master cylinder, and now this is going to be the third master cylinder to see if it works since the second one seems faulty. My system holds pressure so there's no leak. Power brake booster is new. All 4 calipers new. Rotors and brake are pads new. I'm bleeding it according to manual (sequence), I've use every single method. I even got me the pressure bleeder from motive which is a great product. Oh I have bench bled the master cylinder as well. So what is wrong or what am I doing wrong, hummmmgot no clue? Well I guess after installing the new master cylinder coming today and fail, I'll have to give up and take it to the shop. $$$$ down it goes. Any advice? thanks
How are you bleeding the brakes?

John16
Posts: 67
Joined: Sat May 28, 2022 3:05 am
Car: 1993 Nissan 240SX hatchback

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I used every method. But first I found out that I had two left front calipers :) Still after replacing it with the right one I use pressure bleeding. One man method and two person as well. Every single way. After installing the right caliper in front i got a better grip but still not good enough. I mean im running out of Ideas. Also the caliper bolt do you know which one goes on top? Theres a caliper with a rubber (bushing) and the other one is plain. :)

John16
Posts: 67
Joined: Sat May 28, 2022 3:05 am
Car: 1993 Nissan 240SX hatchback

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Still not able to bleed my breaks properly. Im still wroking on it. I will try with the one man bleeding method which is with a hose all the way in a bottle with fluid inside then compress breaks since theres fluid in the bottle no air will go in.


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