I've got this roached out 1992 Nissan Sentra I cannot get started. It's a long story as to how I acquired the car and a long story as to why I need to get it running. Most people would say junk it because it's too far gone and I cannot even sell the car as is for $200 (tried it) but since it has descent compression I think it's worth at least patching up. Maybe give it a good cleaning and put a cheap Rustoleum white paint job on it?
All I know is the car needed new wheel bearings and/or CV joints which I agreed to fix. Next thing I know the guy is dumping it off at my house from a rollback and says he cannot get it started. He said the car was running poorly (like 30 mph @ full throttle) when he was driving it so he drove it home where it sat for four months until he brought it to my house. So it's been sitting at my house for almost 2 years. I've already clipped the side of it with my van which almost made me throw up (damage to my van, not the Sentra).
Some details:
It's the 16 valve 1600cc engine, automatic. 207,000 miles.
Compression 160,195,210,200. OK so cylinder #1 sounds a little low but the engine should start even if that cylinder was dead.
It has fire, spark plugs have been bead blasted (was carbon fouled, especially #1)
It has 40 lbs of fuel pressure when cranking engine.
NODE tester shows at least #4 injector is working
Engine acts like it wants to start but doesn't When I pull the plugs they are wet like the engine is flooding out.
Engine will try to start on starter fluid then dies.
I did the diagnostic check by turning the ignition on, turn the screw on the ECU clockwise, wait 5 seconds then back and got the computer to flash one long and three short flashes so that should mean a code 13/bad coolant temperature sensor. From my experience with Bosch L-jetronic systems, if that sensor is bad, it will cause the engine to flood out. In fact it's the same sensor that is used on my L-jet Fiat Spider.
I checked the CTS with an ohsmeter. Instead of showing around 2000 ohms, my meter shows an open circuit, Plus the terminals were green. I replaced the sensor and connector. Nothing.
They guy did have a Haynes manual for this car but when he dropped off the title, he took the book with him for whatever reason! Maybe he was mad because I lost interest in fixing the car due to it's poor condition.
Best I can remember I did this volt test on the mass air meter and got .7 volts so the mass air meter should be OK. It's also clean (no gunk buildup).
I rigged up a jumper wire to the fuel pump and pumped as much 2 year old gas as I could out, added 3 gallons of new fuel and purged the fuel line until it started to clear up. Still nothing.
One weird thing about that. The fuel did not shoot a solid stream as I would expect. It was more of a pulsating/surging effect like a mechanical diaphragm type pump if that makes any sense. Also the flow rate seemed lower than compared to an L-jetronic vehicle. but I would expect 40 PSI would be sufficient fuel pressure for the car to at least start and idle.
My theory is the engine is flooding out. If the ECU says the CTS was bad and I replaced it along with the connector, then what else could cause this engine to flood out? Mass air sensor still bad despite checking out good? Assuming that's what's going on. I can look into the spark plug holes and it looks like fuel puddling on top of the pistons after excessive cranking.
Oil level seems a bit high. Either he overfilled it or it is mixed with gasoline from where it had leaked down past the rings.
Three things I need to check. I can't remember what the condition of the air filter was. That should have been one of the first things to check but I've never seen an engine fail to start with a clogged or dirty air cleaner. Or even run bad to be honest. But I usually don't allow my cars to get in that bad of shape to run into a problem such as a dirty air cleaner.
Battery terminals. These are in poor condition and takes some coaxing at times by wiggling the connectors on the posts to start the engine.
Ignition timing. I would think if the engine has jumped time, I wouldn't be seeing anywhere from 160 to 210 PSI when doing a wet compression test. I DO NOT know how to check the ignition timing on this car. I assume it's like any other with a distributor. Of course I'd need to get the car running before I could actually check the timing. But I would think if I could #1 cylinder to rotate over to TDC using a dowel rod threw the spark plug hole, the timing pointer should align somewhere near the TDC mark on the crankshaft pulley. If I can find it. Sure can't see it from above!
Even after replacing the CTS, the check engine light still wants to flash a code 13 when I turn the diagnostic screw. Is that a stored code or is there still some issue with the CTS?
If it is a stored code does it need to be cleared before the ECU will allow the engine to start?
One other weird thing. I was testing the brake pedal to see if the brakes still worked. Well they have lost pressure and will need to be bleed. But after the fact, the brake lights were stuck on. I figured the switch was stuck closed but it's not. So I tried to pull the fuse, But the brake lights will burn with the fuse pulled!!!??!!
Is the brake circuitry getting feedback from some other circuit or did I simply pull the wrong fuse?
I ended up disconnecting the plug from the switch in the meantime. Now the I can't get the car out of park. I read somewhere that there is a solenoid next to the shifter that is controlled by the brake light switch. Is that correct? So by the brake lights not working, I can't get the car out of park? That's crazy!
Is there anyway to temporarily get the transmission to come of park until after I get the car running?
I want to make sure this car will run before I spend any more of my time and money on it.
That's it for now.
My rides-->> http://s222.photobucket.com/user/turbof ... t=2&page=0