1992 240sx won't stay running

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intuitivextpwr
Posts: 6
Joined: Tue Jan 30, 2007 2:26 pm

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Hello to whoever may be reading this and thank you for doing so in advance, i'm a noob here so excuse me if i'm not kosher in any way, shape or form. Anyhow, I've been stumped for the last couple of days on my car and can't seem to make any progress. I removed the timing chain guides as per the procedure outlined on this site, once I finished I started the engine, it fired right up like it always does and sounded/ran great under no load, with a smile on my face I proceeded to get in and go for a little drive. When I started to move, the engine would bog down and die if I didn't either put in the clutch or start at a ridiculously high rpm 3500+, once over around 2000 rpm it was fine and no issues. I've had this problem before just once though and not nearly as bad, a few days prior which prompted me to take out the guides free up the tensioners. So I pulled the car back into the garage, to tinker with the timing and it wouldn't start at all , I can get it to start with the TPS unplugged...hardly, it sputters, almost sounds/feels like a misfire and then picks itself up to about 1000 rpm, runs smooth for a few seconds and then dies (dies immediately upon throttle application) I've searched around on the forums ALOT, and checked the common trouble spots ( cleaned the MAF sensor etc. ) but think that these are not my problems, my ECU is giving me a code 55 (A ok). I'm at a loss what to do, should I still be concerning myself with the other emission control systems EGR CTS etc. when the computer says everything is ok?. I still think that it is timing related but have aligned everything to how it was before I started having problems checked and double checked (and every other possible position in between), is there a way to confirm correct timing without being able to start the engine? I doesn't seem right to be a vacuum problem, i've checked the lines regardless ( I may have missed something important though, feel free to chime in) Also thinking that it might be an injector problem or fuel related, i'm going to check as much of the fuel system out as I can tomorrow. If anyone has any ideas or input I would love to hear it as these "modern" engines with all their intricate engine management and sensors are new to me. On the upside i've learned alot in the last couple days! i'm trying to take it as a learning experience but my patience starting to run thin and I REALLY don't want to have to tow said car to a mechanic because I know that it's a small problem and I CAN DO IT, just kind of up against a mental wall with my noob sense. Thanks again to whoever is listening and i'll update any findings.


intuitivextpwr
Posts: 6
Joined: Tue Jan 30, 2007 2:26 pm

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pulled tps, I can't get car to start at all now, checked for spark on all cylinders, they are getting spark but it seems really weak (orange), checked fuel system and injectors, they're good, cap and rotor were worn so they are being overnighted and i pick them up tomorrow morning. Checked CPS. going to check the coil and power transistor or whatever it's called tomorrow. Checked the ground circuit with a multimeter. It's good as far as I can tell although the negative battery cable is exposed halfway down, could this attribute to anything? Would it be a good idea to change plugs as well, they had some carbon build up or would cleaning them suffice? I still think my issues might be timing related, so just to make sure i'm doing this right i'll explain what I did when I removed, and re-installed the distributor correct me if i'm wrong. Set engine at TDC , marked the position of everything on the distributor and between the block and distributor, removed.........aligned the marks on the shaft and gear of distributor and slide in, everything lines up, tighten bolts, re-attach CPS, start....doesn't work . I read on another forum that this guy took out his guides and had the same kind of symptoms as I, although not as severe, and he re-installed the guides and problems disappeared. Has anyone else heard of this? If anyone things i'm missing or overlooking anything i'd love to hear your opinion on what you think I should do.

shipley35
Posts: 1
Joined: Fri Feb 02, 2007 7:58 am

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st240sx starts won't stay running

LayNLow240
Posts: 1017
Joined: Mon Oct 10, 2005 6:20 pm
Car: 92 240 coupe

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your timing should be at 20btdc. its the last mark on the right i think. from the left it goes: -5 tdc +5 +10 +15 +20i had the same problem, just removed my guides and replaced valve stem seals and wouldnt start. i knew it was my ign timing. took a few tried but its spot on now.

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longhaireddwb
Posts: 30
Joined: Thu Jan 18, 2007 6:35 am
Car: 1990 and 1992 nissan stanza GXE

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Why would someone remove the timing guides without installing new ones. Just leave them out? This doesn't make sense to me sense I just spend a weekend replacing mine.

Please explain!!!

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MTX450
Posts: 70
Joined: Sun Jun 04, 2006 9:11 pm
Car: Black S13 KA-T // Maroon S14 KA
Contact:

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nissan issued a bulletin on the upper and side timing chain guides to be removed....they dont do anything, except make noise

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longhaireddwb
Posts: 30
Joined: Thu Jan 18, 2007 6:35 am
Car: 1990 and 1992 nissan stanza GXE

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Does this include the KA24E?

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MTX450
Posts: 70
Joined: Sun Jun 04, 2006 9:11 pm
Car: Black S13 KA-T // Maroon S14 KA
Contact:

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longhaireddwb wrote:Does this include the KA24E?
hmm, not sure, thats a good question...anybody know?

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Bwana
Posts: 6188
Joined: Thu Sep 16, 2004 9:38 am
Car: Denali
Location: Escondido, CA

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longhaireddwb wrote:Does this include the KA24E?
No. This refers to the upper chain guide on the double timing chain on the KA24DE engine. The lower chain on the de is similar to the chain on the e, and requires all guides/tensioner to be installed.

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longhaireddwb
Posts: 30
Joined: Thu Jan 18, 2007 6:35 am
Car: 1990 and 1992 nissan stanza GXE

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Thanks for clearing that up for me. I would have been pissed if it included my ka24e. The only reason I replaced the chain and guides is because the guide opposite the tensioner was broken and just sitting in the timing area. Thanks again.


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