1992 240sx starting problem

[Zoom45]

My 1992 has an intermittent problem. Sometimes it will run fine then all of a sudden it may die when you stop at a light. When it does, it may not crank for a while. Sometimes it will crank right up but if you touch the throttle it will stumble bad and then may not crank again for a while. I changed the fuel pump and filters but it didn't help. I checked for loose grounds and bad vacuum lines but thats ok. The engine is very clean and not gummed up internally. The car runs fine and has good acceleration until it decides to start screwing up. This seems to be a common problems from the forums I read. I unhooked the MAF but it doesn't help. The battery cables had slight corrosion on the terminals. I cleaned them up but no change. It cranked fine this morning. I went back and cranked it again and when I touched the throttle it stumbled and died now won't crank again. It seems if you let it sit a little while it will crank back up and run fine. Any ideas? Thanks,Zoom

[Zoom45]

When I installed the fuel pump and new filter I also drained the tank and ensured it was clean. The car ran fine for a while after the pump installation. Now that it's giving trouble again, I went back and pulled the fuel filter and drained it in a clear glass. The stuff that came out was black so that may be the cause of the starting problems. I don't know where the black stuff came from. I blew the filter out with air pressure and put it back on and ran a long hose from the filter to a clear glass. When I turned the key on, it ran clear gas into the bottle from the pump pressure. Could there be something wrong with the injectors that could cause this?Zoom45

[onosqv]

don't know about ur 2nd post, but from your first post, sounds like bad injectors to me.

you can either test it via FSM guidelines (search on here for fsm / factory service manual if you don't know what it is or where to get it) or bring it to a mechanic.

If there is a check engine light, I suggest you pull codes, otherwise, just start diagnosing the injectors.

[khooper]

have you check the following: 1. Compression; 2. Spark (Ignition delivered at the proper timing); and 3. Fuel / Air Mixturethose are the first thing to be check if there is any issue regarding the starting.

[Zoom45]

Spark air and fuel are working fine. I even ohmed the injectors and they were all 11.8 - 12

It runs fine at times and may for a couple of weeks then it will run like crap or not even crank. When it will crank, if you touch the gas it will stumble almost like it cuts the air or fuel off. It may stuble and pick back up or go into it's mode where it won't crank at all. There's no check engine light on either.

[ZOMG.SR20]

im having the same problem i narrowed it down to either MAFS or TPS because mine runs fine at first start up in the morning then i shut it off it wont run right after

[Zoom45]

I'm wondering if the crappy fuel we get at the pump that is up to 15% ethanol may be screwing up the MAF sensor. Seems like I haven't had this problem until we started getting that type fuel at my local station. I may drain the tank and try it with some regular gas.Zoom45

[ZOMG.SR20]

did you check the O2 sensor cause that apparently throws off air fuel bad

[NIzmoS13]

sounds like to me your O2 sensor has crapped out and is not reading your fuel/ air mixture wrong i would replace that then move to the MAF it has to be either or i had the same issue with mine coulple months ago ended up being my O2 sensor to be honeast with you that check engine lights dont work with 240sx very well just learned from expierence...

[ZOMG.SR20]

i noticed my check engine flickers when it is on and is off most of the other time

[NIzmoS13]

trying to tell you that engine check light is for dummies honestly.... lol

[ZOMG.SR20]

you dont happen to know how check codes do you cause i can read codes on OBDII but not OBDI

[NIzmoS13]

you dont happen to know how check codes do you cause i can read codes on OBDII but not OBDI

General: 1989-94 Nissan Common OBD-I codes

-Access the ECU and position it for observing the diodes. -If the engine does not run, turn the key on and proceed to step #4. -Start the engine and warm it to operating temperature then idle. -Turn the diagnostic mode selector on the ECU fully clockwise until both diodes flash 3 times then turn the selector fully counterclockwise. The ECCS system is now in mode 3

[NIzmoS13]

<http://www.nicoclub.com/articles.php?id=183411> here is a site

[s13blake]

i have had a problem like this before i had to change my fuel pump, fuel filter, and maf sensor all at the same time car ran perfect

but thecar wanting to die at the red light and stuff sounds like your idle air control valve

idk man good luck clean your maf and stuff

[Zoom45]

Problem fixed so far. We put a temperature switch that is in the intake on it and it started running great. No miss, no stalling for two days now. Funny how a little thing like that can make it run so crappy. I was ready to put it on blocks and get something else. Zoom45

[ZOMG.SR20]

can you take a pic of what it is and where im having the same problems

[ZOMG.SR20]

bump for answers and the part hes talking about

[Zoom45]

Don't have a picture but if you raise the hood and look at the motor on left side, the sensor screws into the front of the head by the intake. It has an orange square plug on it. The car ran perfect for a couple of weeks but started the same problem again last night. I had to tow it home in the rain. It won't crank now but tries. It acts just like it's not getting fuel. The guy that worked on it last time said all he knew to do is put a MAF sensor on it. Said it won't run at all if it's messed up. I'm going to find a used one and if it don't fix it, it is going to the junk pile and I'll get a reliable Toyota. This is my kids daily transportation and it has stranded him several times now. Even the Nissan shop don't know what to do with it. Zoom45

[ZOMG.SR20]

idle air contral valve is my deduction

[ZOMG.SR20]

i went to JNRmotorsports up in NH and he knew what it was without even saying anything thurns out to be the Knock sensor and the run btwn $100 - 180 $

[Zoom45]

I tried another knock sensor, it's getting good spark and fuel and the injectors ohm out ok and click when it decides to run. It takes spells and will run fine or quit and let me tow it home. Now it's in a mode where it doesn't want to crank. What else could keep it from cranking? The computer shows a code 55 right now. It just won't crank. Can you bypass the sensors to make it run? I don't won't to go buy all new sensors just to see if they will work. Any ideas?Thanks,Zoom45

[ZOMG.SR20]

sadly but try another ECU that may be the prob