1992 240sx: PLEASE HELP, think it is MAFS?

[Chezedik]

Okay, so here is the deal. I have a 92' Twin cam 240sx, and I have had problems with it lately (it ran real bad for a while, and now will not run at all). It has 122K, and I/E/H + 240Z clutch, and Jet VForce module (not cool!). I am an auto student and have checked out a number of possiblities. Fuel pump KOEO @ 40PSI, Comp @ 165lbs, Injectors @ 11 ohms. I pulled the valve cover, and all of the lifters will go flush, indicating no stuck valves (I think...), and although the timing chain is overdue, it is not slapping, and there is no excess free play in it. Also, no weird sound at idle that would tell me it was a bad chain. Also, it is firing on all cylinders, it has new wires, distributor cap, coil, and coil pigtale. Also, it has a new fuel filter. The Jet unit is also reading good connections; +,-,TPS - although it does not indicate a good/bad indication of connection for the MAFS, it is connected to that too, it will not work w/o + or - or TPS, plus the unit has a gauge showing relative throttle position, and the gauge is functioning perfectly. I did the valve cover test to check for spark. Upon replacing the fuel fouled plugs, the car ran for about 5-10 seconds, then died and would not start again.My problem started on a rainy day, about a week before I had cut out a scoop about my K&N with the intent of building an air box for it. Well, in the rain it humbucked, so I let it sit, opting to walk to my classes. A few days later, it ran fine, until another rain, when the problem came back, and got worse. Again, it ran a day later, but not well. Finally, one more rain and kaput. So it seems to be because of the rain (derrr....). I thought I may have gotten K&N filter oil on the MAF element, and so I sprayed it with carb cleaner, and it ran for about 10 minutes, but would not idle w/o my foot on the gas. I thought it may just be getting a bad reading because of the carb cleaner, so I let it sit a day. It didn't run later, and that trick hasn't worked since. Finally, I got no check engine light. I ran a check anyway, and got code 55 (for you buffs, that is no problem, obviously, there is)Are these the symptoms of a bad MAFS, and if so what are my compatability options. If I want the 300ZX MAFS, does that require a RePROM. Will any of the MAFSs from the S13 Chassis work (CA18DET, SR20DE, SR20DET, KA24E) without a RePROM. Do you know a good place to find a junked one. If you think I may have another problem, or need more info, please tell me.Thank you,Nicholas Brumme:help

[br2819]

i have a mafs off a 93 i you are interested?

[wiwalsh]

Do you think the hole you cut allowed more water than normal to be ingested into the MAF and engine? Do you have any pictures of the changes you made?

[Luke]

Someone told me that carb cleaner leaves a residue on electrical parts. I bought some electrical parts cleaner to clean my MAF sensor. What do i know? I'm just tryin to help

[wiwalsh]

Also heard bad things about carb cleaner and MAS. I was told that electrical contact cleaner as you said, was good stuff to use........ just thought id back you up....

[Chezedik]

I think the hole definately allowed more water to come in. Also I have heard the same thing about carb cleaner, but only after the fact.

[Chezedik]

Oh, and depending on the verdict, I may definately be interested in that MAFS, email me on the details.

[Chezedik]

It turned out after testing that it is the MAFS as well as the Coolant Temp Sensor. The test for the MAFS is to use KOEO and test the white wire. If it has less than .2V, check to make sure that the MAFS is clean in the sample tube, and if it is, and the problem persists, then replace. I am still interested in that MAFS, let me know.