1992 240sx: No spark

[Tims_240]

Hi, I am getting no spark when trying to start my 240. i am throwing codes 11, 12, and 21, so obviously there is something wrong that the ecu is reading, because all of them relate to the ignition system. I have rechecked my wiring (I installed a blaster 2 coil) on my coil, and it is definitely right, i have also tried to replace the ignition module, coil, mafs, and i have double checked my fuses. any ideas?thanks-tim

[mr_wizard]

Check your plug gaps? They aren't fouled are they? Sure your plug wires are ok? How about your rotor?

[Tims_240]

i have already replaced the rotor, and the spark plug gap wouldnt matter.

[navysnail]

is the coil getting power from the primary circut?

[Tims_240]

Yes, The positive and negative side of the coil are getting 6-12+ volts (test light). I also tested to see if the CAS was sending signal to the ecu via the white wire on the CAS and indeed the test light flashed when turning over the motor.thanks for the suggestions so far, and keep em comin,-tim

[180fan]

did you check the dist cap yet?

[navysnail]

stick a plug in the cable coming from the coil and see if that works.

[Tims_240]

I recently checked my distributor and cap & rotor by replacing it with a friends that I know works. I have tried the spark plug in the coil to dizzy wire, keep the adving coming please!!! I want to get this thing running!-tim

[Tims_240]

any more ideas guys?A little while back when I didnt ground one of my mafs grounds (z32 mafs) my car didnt have spark, and then when i grounded it, it magically sparked. However this is not the case this time, my mafs is grounded very well.I just thought i would say this because this is what fixed it last time. (yes i have tried another mafs)thanks guys-tim

[180fan]

how you got that z32 mafs hooked up?

[Tims_240]

KA blk wht-Z32 blk wht 12Vka wht-Z32 wht .05v signalka blk -Z32 blk..groundand the other wire i have grounded to chassis.

[rogoman]

Hi, I am getting no spark when trying to start my 240. i am throwing codes 11, 12, and 21, so obviously there is something wrong that the ecu is reading, because all of them relate to the ignition system. I have rechecked my wiring (I installed a blaster 2 coil) on my coil, and it is definitely right, i have also tried to replace the ignition module, coil, mafs, and i have double checked my fuses. any ideas?

Did the motor run OK before you installed the blaster coil?

[Tims_240]

Yes, and it ran fine with it in for about 3 months also. Then i changed some of my turbo setup and let the car set for about 2 months and swapped a new engine/turbo/i-c in and here i am now. I would also like to mention that when my car ran after the engine swap (how my setup is now) when i was boosting it would pop and backfire when i full throttled it or went above 7 psi. (i did do a boost leak prior and fixed all leaks) but if i didnt go above 7 psi it ran Great. And then i leave my car set out over night and it doesnt start. This leads me to believe it has to be something that can be worn out. such as a cap and rotor, ect. What do you guys think?-tim

[180fan]

what do you have converting the signal from the mafs to the ecu or do you have a reflashed ecu?

[Tims_240]

I have an Enthalpy tuned ECU.-tim

[rogoman]

Apparently after you did the motor swap, operation went down the toilet. Possibilities include loose wiring connections at harness connectors and/or ground connections.

It's unlikely that something in the ignition system failed because you used the same components before and after the motor swap.

[Tims_240]

Yes, that is correct everything should work fine, so it is narrowed down to wiring issues. Now, I did some more testing with my test light and I found that the white wire going to the stock ignition module (the three wire plug) is not lighting up when I turn the car over. Is it supposed to light up? I am assuming so.what does this wire do, and where does it go? What are your suggestions for fixing this.thank you for all your help,-tim

[rogoman]

The white from the ignition transistor goes to pin #1 on the ECU. This is your ignition signal lead. The signal voltage is around 0.2v.