1991 Z32 NA-->TT Swap Questions

Nissan 300ZX technical discussion forum: Maintenance, performance, installations, modifications, how-to's and troubleshooting.
50CalAL
Posts: 4
Joined: Tue Apr 06, 2010 7:08 pm

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Hello Everyone,

New member here, been trolling for a while but couldn't find my answers using the search and wanted some advise.

Some background:

I currently have a 1991 Z32 2+2 (pics below) which I bought back in '97 shortly after I got out of high school. It had 40K miles on it and I drove it every day and put on another 80K+. Long story short, it's had some problems (2nd VTC gear went out, PS rack and hoses went bad, suspension shot to name a few) so it's been in my garage for a few years.

I've decided it's about time she got some love so I'm having my mechanic swap out the motor with a 1993 JDM VG30DETT motor/trans. I know it's cheaper to just go buy a TT but I've had this car for some time and it's been through a lot with me so has sentimental value.

She's pretty much stock: Stillen single POP, Trust Exhaust, Stillen front bumper and nose panel.

Other than the swap in progress, also adding Tein Super Street Hyper Damper suspension, ACT Racing clutch, UR undrive crank and overdrive pulleys.

On to the questions:

I'm live in SoCAL, LA county, and was wondering for all those folks in Cali that have done the NA-->TT swap: 1. Did you go as far as having your car BAR'd (take your car to a referee station to get a new VIN issued) or do you just have your car smogged normally?1a. If yes was the process particularly difficult since the swap isn't that extreme, VG30DE vs VG30DETT?1b. If no, can I just get my car smogged normally? I ask since I need to get it either barred or I have to take my car to a test only for smog since it's non-op for a while.

I know the R200 and R230 diffs gear ratios are different, 3.69:1 vs 4.10:1.

Is it worth keeping the R200 for the shorter gears/faster acceleration and just swap out the speedo gear in the transmission or swap out the rear subframe/diff and get a new driveshaft or swap with the Q45 diff?

Can someone break down the advantages/disadvantages to these options?

Thanks in advance, appreciate any feedback/advise.

Well, here's the only pics I seem to have when my car was running:


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car nut
Posts: 3246
Joined: Mon Oct 12, 2009 8:33 am
Car: GT500.
Location: The hottest neighborhood in America (Forbes)

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I don't live in Cali but you should be able to get your car smogged normally. The VG30DETT is a fully legal motor and will pass smog tests easily if your EGR is still installed.

As far as the ratios, swapping to the TT rearend/axles/driveshaft is a lot more work then using a Q45 diff. A Y33 (1997-2001) diff will bolt right in, all it needs a a redrill for the driveshaft to bolt up. Unless you're looking for a really quick accelerating car, I'd leave the NA diff, but if you do a lot of highway driving I'd recommend the Q45 diff. It will bring your revs down by about 400rpms at 70mph.

JDMZ32
Posts: 3219
Joined: Mon Jan 14, 2008 9:30 am
Car: 1991 Nissan 300ZX NA slicktop 5spd red
Location: Auburn University, AL
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Great looking Z . Welcome to posting. Good luck with the swap.

marty1mc
Posts: 733
Joined: Sat Jan 16, 2010 1:51 am
Car: 1990 Nissan 300ZX TT - Z owner since 2003
Location: Fuquay Varina,NC

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If you use the Q45 rear end, you can also swap the input shaft from the NA into the Q45 rear. It eliminates the need for drilling and everything works as normal. That is what I am doing.

I am also in the middle of a swap. I decided to go to the taller gearing of the Q45 rear because my NA burns tire now when I get on it. I also run out of first gear pretty fast and second doesn't last much longer. I want a little more run before I have to shift. I am not worried about 1/4 mile times or red light to red light acceleration. I want usable power for mountain roads where 1st and 2nd gear are used the majority of the time.'


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