Hello. I have searched and searched with no positive results. I had a 1991 s13 with a ka24de that ran perfectly. I decided to swap everything into another shell. Upon completion, I turned the key and nothing happened. No power, no lights, nothing. I found a ground i had missed, sanded and bolted it on, and tried once more and this time the fuel pump hummed but no crank. I jumped the starter and discovered no spark. The next day, I tried turning the key and this time no hum from the fuel pump. All i can hear is 1 click from the ignition, clicks coming from each fuse/relay box in the hood. I checked the coil, no spark. I have checked all fuses, and i got a friend coming tomorrow with a voltmeter to check continuity of all relays. any suggestions for me to check would be great... drifting season has begun i need this thing going asap!

Can you check the current draw from the battery under key off and key on conditions?

PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:Can you check the current draw from the battery under key off and key on conditions?

where would be a good place to test that? on the battery terminal itself?
if so, it says 12.38 V

I think current draw will be in Amps. Here is a wikihow link for that instruction:
http://www.wikihow.com/Find-a-Parasitic-Battery-Drain

You might want to use the FSM and wiring diagrams. You may have issues with the ECCS, ACC1 and ACC2 relays or associated wiring/ grounds (ACC is accessory and is like dash lights, radio, etc.). I do not know if you have one or two accessory relays (I haven't looked at your FSM), mine has two.

Your fuel pump working and then not might be due to a blow fuse. Check fusable link under hood in addition to smaller fuses. Maybe get a guy with similar car and wiring to compare to yours.

Right, basically you leave your negative cable hooked up, hook one side of your multi meter to the positive terminal (disconnected from the battery), and then touch the other side to the battery post. You'll have to have the meter cables in the current checking positions, but this will give you a current draw for the car.
Typically there will be higher current draw when the battery is first connected (it has to fill some capacitors and such), but then should level out. We'd be looking for that value when it levels out. Should be something like 0.2-0.5A or so.

If it blows the fuse in your multi-meter, you probably have a problem. The "Ray Charles check" would be to just touch the battery terminal back to the battery and see if you get a huge arc. Make sure the key is off when you do this.