Yeah hi,
I have a '91 240sx fastback that's so stock it turns heads. I installed a ported 12" Kicker Comp in a ghetto ported box (which barely fits in the "trunk") being pushed by a sissy little 140 Watt RMS crossfire amp. It sounds swell inside, but there's a wretched rattling sound when it hits and you stand behind the car.
I replaced the seals around the hatch, but that didn't do anything at all about that problem. I think it stopped the mold problem when it rained though...
Also, whenever I pop the hatch, the rattles completely disappear. I looked into adjusting the latch, but after I remove the two screws, there's nothing to adjust on it!
What exactly could be causing the rattles? I think it's the interior carpetted (spelling?) panels because when I thumped on them, they made a sound similar to the rattling I heard outside. The rattle definitely isn't from the jack or loose clutter lying in the trunk. I've already taken out everything that wasn't bolted on (except the sub and box obviously). Is dynamat the only answer?
1991 Fastback Rattling problem
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stillmatic
- Posts: 438
- Joined: Sun Aug 10, 2003 12:33 pm
you know that's the same problem i was getting with mine initially...
first of all do you still have your rear windsheild wiper/motor installed? if so, remove it, no big loss at all unless you like the styling of it (i personally like it better removed)... to remove it just take out all the screws that could possibly hold it in and just yank it out... disconnecting the actual arm from the motor was the hardest part, but you just gotta really torque on it... once it's out just use one of the rubber plugs that you'll find in your trunk under the carpet, and it should fit perfectly in the hole that's left over in your hatch... that's rattle solution ONE!
second thing is to remove the rearmost panel which covers the tailights and such... the key is not to simply remove it (you can put it back on if you want) but it's to actually sound deaden the tailight covers (beige/white covers)... those things rattle like a mofo, and if you tap on them you'll understand... reason why they don't rattle when you have the hatch open is cause there is less pressure in the cabin with it open... what i used was this stuff called "roofing material". don't know if that's the technical name for it but it's a black tar-based material about 1/8" thick and 6" wide and comes on a 25ft roll... it has backing on both sides cause it's sticky on both sides, and it doesn't come off easily, but it sure does the trick... just stick it on stuff that rattles and VOILA, the rattle disappears!
damn i'm tired :freak
first of all do you still have your rear windsheild wiper/motor installed? if so, remove it, no big loss at all unless you like the styling of it (i personally like it better removed)... to remove it just take out all the screws that could possibly hold it in and just yank it out... disconnecting the actual arm from the motor was the hardest part, but you just gotta really torque on it... once it's out just use one of the rubber plugs that you'll find in your trunk under the carpet, and it should fit perfectly in the hole that's left over in your hatch... that's rattle solution ONE!
second thing is to remove the rearmost panel which covers the tailights and such... the key is not to simply remove it (you can put it back on if you want) but it's to actually sound deaden the tailight covers (beige/white covers)... those things rattle like a mofo, and if you tap on them you'll understand... reason why they don't rattle when you have the hatch open is cause there is less pressure in the cabin with it open... what i used was this stuff called "roofing material". don't know if that's the technical name for it but it's a black tar-based material about 1/8" thick and 6" wide and comes on a 25ft roll... it has backing on both sides cause it's sticky on both sides, and it doesn't come off easily, but it sure does the trick... just stick it on stuff that rattles and VOILA, the rattle disappears!
damn i'm tired :freak
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StockerThanStock
- Posts: 224
- Joined: Mon Jan 19, 2004 12:23 pm
That last setup was dynamatted to no end in his other pictures. I'll try stillmatic's idea first since I'm lazy and not trying to get SPL higher than some people's IQ's. If it works, then I'll see what I can do to conceal it and make everything look nice and dandy, but if that doesn't work, it looks like I should look for some dynamat extreme or other sort of sound absorbing "stuff".
ayjay, I really do use that windshield wiper. =(
I'll try some of that this weekend.
ayjay, I really do use that windshield wiper. =(
I'll try some of that this weekend.
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StockerThanStock
- Posts: 224
- Joined: Mon Jan 19, 2004 12:23 pm
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stillmatic
- Posts: 438
- Joined: Sun Aug 10, 2003 12:33 pm
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StockerThanStock
- Posts: 224
- Joined: Mon Jan 19, 2004 12:23 pm
I put the sub back into the back for now, but facing forward this time. The rattle's only there now when it's cranked up enough to rattle the silverware in the drawers in the house. We could probably come up with some nice design to keep the backseat down and conceal any subs. I just don't have the money or resources at the moment to try anything.
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StockerThanStock
- Posts: 224
- Joined: Mon Jan 19, 2004 12:23 pm
Update!
I dynamatted all around the windshield wiper under the hatch, I'll do the same around the back panel too since I have over half the stuff left. It works great, but that's apparently not the only thing that was rattling. The hatch rattles a 'little' still (not done with it yet), but when the doors are shut, the sunroof rattles like mad! It doesn't quit even when it's opened, but it does when I press down on it. This sucks! =(
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MECPInstaller
- Posts: 811
- Joined: Fri Aug 29, 2003 10:49 am
- Car: installing stereo systems and minor performance upgrades
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masticatingcow
- Posts: 2338
- Joined: Fri Nov 07, 2003 8:39 am
- Car: 94 Mazda FD3S
Re: 1991 Fastback Rattling problem
StockerThanStock --
I also have a 91 Fastback and am running a similar setup. I recently installed a 2x10" bandpass box powered by a Kenwood KAC606 with similar power. At first, the hatch shelf/cover/whatever interfered with the ports and caused serious rattle that went away when I opened the hatch. The air needed somewhere to go.
I positioned the ports to face the seats and have the woofers shooting vertically. I was able to avoid virtually all rattle, inside and out, without replacing the hatch seals or folding the seats. All I had to do was pull the spare and strategically mount the box so it spanned the now-empty spare cavity. Bolted it and that was it.
Perhaps you may be able to recover your backseat and a sense of security by doing this.
ALSO-- you say "ghetto ported"... by this do you mean cheaply ported and/or built? A pro-built box may be the answer as you move up in power because they are better tuned and more accurately designed.
All I'm saying is that in a similar car that DOES rattle/click/knock/etc for other reasons, I have been able to avoid rattle stemming from my audio system while maintaining an entirely stock appearence. If you want picks I have 'em.
Good luck!
BTW-- That carpeted material blows. I have had problems with it since I got the car. Dynamat may be the only answer to the rattle you get from there.
Pics for the install... clean and stock.
I also have a 91 Fastback and am running a similar setup. I recently installed a 2x10" bandpass box powered by a Kenwood KAC606 with similar power. At first, the hatch shelf/cover/whatever interfered with the ports and caused serious rattle that went away when I opened the hatch. The air needed somewhere to go.
I positioned the ports to face the seats and have the woofers shooting vertically. I was able to avoid virtually all rattle, inside and out, without replacing the hatch seals or folding the seats. All I had to do was pull the spare and strategically mount the box so it spanned the now-empty spare cavity. Bolted it and that was it.
Perhaps you may be able to recover your backseat and a sense of security by doing this.
ALSO-- you say "ghetto ported"... by this do you mean cheaply ported and/or built? A pro-built box may be the answer as you move up in power because they are better tuned and more accurately designed.
All I'm saying is that in a similar car that DOES rattle/click/knock/etc for other reasons, I have been able to avoid rattle stemming from my audio system while maintaining an entirely stock appearence. If you want picks I have 'em.
Good luck!
BTW-- That carpeted material blows. I have had problems with it since I got the car. Dynamat may be the only answer to the rattle you get from there.
Pics for the install... clean and stock.
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masticatingcow
- Posts: 2338
- Joined: Fri Nov 07, 2003 8:39 am
- Car: 94 Mazda FD3S
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StockerThanStock
- Posts: 224
- Joined: Mon Jan 19, 2004 12:23 pm
Thanks for the info masticatingcow! I'm thinking about giving up cheap though and just removing the back seats, making a fiberglass enclosure there and let the subs fire upwards. I'm only thinking of doing that to get more trunk space ($150 worth of food is hard to stuff into a 240 packed with me, a passenger and a 12 in a great big box...). Besides, no one can fit in the back seats anyways, they never get used. Do you think it'd be worth the effort/money?
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masticatingcow
- Posts: 2338
- Joined: Fri Nov 07, 2003 8:39 am
- Car: 94 Mazda FD3S
StockerThanStock--
I may be the only 240sx owner who knows somebody who fits in the backseat. LOL.
As far as being worth the money... well, only you know for sure. I wouldn't be in any rush to do it, but that's me. I think that if it'll make your car more fun, just go for it.
If you end up wanting to keep a stock appearance, check out what people have done on their S14s on www.240sx.org under "Installs"... one guy set subs into the frame behind the rear passenger side forms and sunk his amp rack into the spare cavity. Choice stuff, if you ask me. The S13 is just as capable a car for clean installs like that. I knew one guy who used the "cubbies" behind the rear wheelwells to custom mount his subs, then fabbed a couple shelves against the rear of the hatch to mount his amps. Also very clean.
At any rate, do what you gotta do to get that ride the way you like it. Let me know how it works out, though... I'd like to see how it ends up!
I may be the only 240sx owner who knows somebody who fits in the backseat. LOL.
As far as being worth the money... well, only you know for sure. I wouldn't be in any rush to do it, but that's me. I think that if it'll make your car more fun, just go for it.
If you end up wanting to keep a stock appearance, check out what people have done on their S14s on www.240sx.org under "Installs"... one guy set subs into the frame behind the rear passenger side forms and sunk his amp rack into the spare cavity. Choice stuff, if you ask me. The S13 is just as capable a car for clean installs like that. I knew one guy who used the "cubbies" behind the rear wheelwells to custom mount his subs, then fabbed a couple shelves against the rear of the hatch to mount his amps. Also very clean.
At any rate, do what you gotta do to get that ride the way you like it. Let me know how it works out, though... I'd like to see how it ends up!
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Yorb
- Posts: 323
- Joined: Tue Sep 03, 2002 7:29 am
- Car: 1992 Nissan 240SX SE Fastback
- Location: Raleigh, NC
- Contact:
Just adding my two cents. I too have been plagued eternally by the S13 hatch rattle. =( I have a pair of JL 10s in a sealed box pushed by a Phoenix Gold amp, they make some seriously bangin' noise. Unfortunately so does the hatch when it's closed.
My particular rattling problem seems to be coming from the passenger side hatch frame, halfway up. My hatch window was shattered a few months ago and I'm worried that the glass place didn't put it back in right, or maybe they left some pieces or something in there. Argh.
Another thing that seems to rattle is ball bearings in the rear seatbelt assemblies, though those things are impossible to get apart so forget it. Plus, I don't know what you're talking about, I've had 5 people in my 240, and I'm 6'2!
I've also had sex in the back seat on more than one occasion. It's quite capable for a sporty hatchback.
I've also considered the Dynamatting and custom enclosure building, but it's just too much money/trouble right now. And I don't like the idea of pointing my subs forward or putting them in the back seat. Too weird and too ghetto. ;D
Let me know if you find a magic cure though. I like Masticating's suggestion with the tire well, but then what if I have a flat? =(
My particular rattling problem seems to be coming from the passenger side hatch frame, halfway up. My hatch window was shattered a few months ago and I'm worried that the glass place didn't put it back in right, or maybe they left some pieces or something in there. Argh.
Another thing that seems to rattle is ball bearings in the rear seatbelt assemblies, though those things are impossible to get apart so forget it. Plus, I don't know what you're talking about, I've had 5 people in my 240, and I'm 6'2!
I've also had sex in the back seat on more than one occasion. It's quite capable for a sporty hatchback.I've also considered the Dynamatting and custom enclosure building, but it's just too much money/trouble right now. And I don't like the idea of pointing my subs forward or putting them in the back seat. Too weird and too ghetto. ;D
Let me know if you find a magic cure though. I like Masticating's suggestion with the tire well, but then what if I have a flat? =(
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Yorb
- Posts: 323
- Joined: Tue Sep 03, 2002 7:29 am
- Car: 1992 Nissan 240SX SE Fastback
- Location: Raleigh, NC
- Contact:
good point still, i'm too lazy. i don't need my trunk room that much. if I was to do custom boxes i'd probably make 2 and have them fit, like someone said, in the little areas behind the wheel wells firing inward. and of course put cages on the subs. my only worry would be box space... like, there's supposed to be an optimum size for the box and stuff.
maybe if i made 2 ported boxes...ooooooh. too bad i don't know how to do that ;D
by the way, when i was first trying to track down the rattling problem, there were 2 quick things i did that seemed to help quite a bit. first, make sure your hatch latch is positioned as far down on the inside of the trunk space as possible (there are some bolts you can loosen and slide it). then take some heavy duty tape, electrical tape or duct tape (but duct tape gets nasty), and cover the U-shaped hatch side of the latch. the tape will get messed up over time as you open and close the hatch, but it helps the rattling.
the other thing is to tape the hinges for the shelf thing (mine have always been broken, so they bounced around easy).
still, i'm too lazy. i don't need my trunk room that much. if I was to do custom boxes i'd probably make 2 and have them fit, like someone said, in the little areas behind the wheel wells firing inward. and of course put cages on the subs. my only worry would be box space... like, there's supposed to be an optimum size for the box and stuff.maybe if i made 2 ported boxes...ooooooh. too bad i don't know how to do that ;D
by the way, when i was first trying to track down the rattling problem, there were 2 quick things i did that seemed to help quite a bit. first, make sure your hatch latch is positioned as far down on the inside of the trunk space as possible (there are some bolts you can loosen and slide it). then take some heavy duty tape, electrical tape or duct tape (but duct tape gets nasty), and cover the U-shaped hatch side of the latch. the tape will get messed up over time as you open and close the hatch, but it helps the rattling.
the other thing is to tape the hinges for the shelf thing (mine have always been broken, so they bounced around easy).
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masticatingcow
- Posts: 2338
- Joined: Fri Nov 07, 2003 8:39 am
- Car: 94 Mazda FD3S
yorb--
My friend put two custom-cut Type 1 closed boxes in the space behind the wheelwells (.75 cu ft each). The only problem he had with them was that the spaces were/are assymetrical. (On the passenger side, there is less room because of the fuel system.) A little time on the jigsaw with MDF and he compensated on the driver's side. Easy fix.
To add to yorb's contribution...
Another spot in the hatch that'll rattle like crazy is the 3rd brake light assembly. There is a module attached to the hatch by only one screw, so it buzzes like crazy even when you tap the metal around it!
Pop out the fasteners around the back of the hatch door and pull the "upholstery" down and out. On the right side, there'll be a series of wires connected to a module that is bolted in by on screw. This is another culprit. Wedge something between the black module and the metal and you're done. (I used a folded Orbit gum wrapper, no need to get expensive...)
Also, about flats....
If you are prone to getting unexpected flats, i.e. driving over crappy roads and/or dirt roads, then you probably aren't in the market for a tricked-out audio system.
Get AAA or something and call it a day. (Besides, the donut that you get out of there is a piece... trust me, I know.)
My friend put two custom-cut Type 1 closed boxes in the space behind the wheelwells (.75 cu ft each). The only problem he had with them was that the spaces were/are assymetrical. (On the passenger side, there is less room because of the fuel system.) A little time on the jigsaw with MDF and he compensated on the driver's side. Easy fix.
To add to yorb's contribution...
Another spot in the hatch that'll rattle like crazy is the 3rd brake light assembly. There is a module attached to the hatch by only one screw, so it buzzes like crazy even when you tap the metal around it!
Pop out the fasteners around the back of the hatch door and pull the "upholstery" down and out. On the right side, there'll be a series of wires connected to a module that is bolted in by on screw. This is another culprit. Wedge something between the black module and the metal and you're done. (I used a folded Orbit gum wrapper, no need to get expensive...)
Also, about flats....
If you are prone to getting unexpected flats, i.e. driving over crappy roads and/or dirt roads, then you probably aren't in the market for a tricked-out audio system.
Get AAA or something and call it a day. (Besides, the donut that you get out of there is a piece... trust me, I know.)