1991 d21 destroyed lower cross arm WOW - What do I do?

[ManzanoNissan]

This all started because the ball joints were destroyed. 3 weeks later....let's say we shouldn't be surprised, the original owner of this truck never changed a single part. Not one.

The sway bar link had gone so bad that the bolt was creating a snowman second bolt hole in the lower cross arm. New cross arm ordered.

I need opinions/help on the compression rod/strut rod. As you can see it was so heavily damaged, the metal had fatigued and I was flicking off chunks with my finger. New compression rod/strut rod ordered.

But the first picture shows my concern. The bushing washer that's permanently attached to the frame has been busted off, broken.

What do I do about that? Any ideas?

https://imgur.com/a/MAYcrKT

[VStar650CL]

I don't think there's a good fix for that without welding. Without the bushing cup, the rod will knock around in the hole. However, I don't think you necessarily need the full cup, just something to center the bushing. They make belleville springs up to some huge sizes, I think grinding off what's left of the cup and welding on an oversized belleville would probably do the trick.
https://www.mcmaster.com/products/cup-w ... springs-7/

[ManzanoNissan]

I don't think there's a good fix for that without welding. Without the bushing cup, the rod will knock around in the hole. However, I don't think you necessarily need the full cup, just something to center the bushing. They make belleville springs up to some huge sizes, I think grinding off what's left of the cup and welding on an oversized belleville would probably do the trick.
https://www.mcmaster.com/products/cup-w ... springs-7/

Oh god Vstar, I was afraid you were going to say that.

So I'll rent this puppy out and I guess I'll give 'er a go. How the heck would you try tacking this on? I'm looking close at the pics and it seems to be welded around the inner diameter?
I've tried sending a request to an ask a welding expert to see what they'd do but I'm thinking I'll need to weld around the inner diameter and then grind clean.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/rental/Linc ... /316821957

[VStar650CL]

Yah, I don't see any way around grinding it clean. This sort of crap is never easy. If the ID is part of the cup and not the frame, then you may need to make a washer sandwich with a smaller washer tacked to the bellevile to give you the right hole diameter.

[ManzanoNissan]

Alright after digging for welding posts, I found this: I'm not a welder, but I'm a quick learner and this truck is an hour outside the nearest city so it's me and these plans.

https://www.infamousnissan.com/forum/sh ... hp?t=42684

[VStar650CL]

Not a bad idea using bearing races for cups. I like it.

[ManzanoNissan]

Not a bad idea using bearing races for cups. I like it.

Yeah and the bonus for me is I'm pretty sure the backside cup was in good shape, the rod had just started disintegrating so there wasn't as much movement as the fella that I got the post specs for the repair. Vehicles here in New Mexico just don't have the rust issues like anywhere else I've lived. So parts stay reasonably well shape, even 34 years old, all things considered.

I read further and his repair is based on someone who had this similar problem with their Ford. That tells me this is an engineering flaw and that the bushing on the compression rod that is in front of the frame is the culprit area that gives out causing extra damage later on.

So it would stand to reason that I only need to weld in a proper fitting (the cup spec) to the front area where the up and down movement of the lower control arm causes that bushing on the front to want to travel around that saucer cup on the frame. (which it apparently does even on other models that have that same saucer cup style).

I'll follow the spec designs but without knocking off the original bushing cup on the backside of the frame and will just use the brass insert/washer and nut on it to secure the front for welding into spot. (if that backside bushing cup is in good shape only-I'll do a closer inspection and evaluate afterwards).