1991 D21 4x4 Front Wheel Bearings

Forum for the Xterra, Frontier and Hardbody, the smaller workhorses of the Nissan lineup!
KB Services
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Joined: Mon Jun 04, 2007 7:32 pm

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Truck has Warn manual hubs. I replaced the hubs but have never gone past that point. I had a mech. before he moved to FL. I need to replace the bearings. What do I need to know. i.e. run me through a tear down please. Pull the wheel, pull the brake caliper, pull the hub, ??????????? next please. Pics you got pics.


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Big-Bird
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Joined: Thu Aug 03, 2006 4:41 pm
Car: 2000 Xterra on 'Roids & 2004 Quest SL

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Yeah I 've got pics. But do yourself a favor and purchase the HAYNES manual from your local parts dealer. It will go into far more detail and provide you with important details like torque specifications for the bearings and other important parts.

But to get you started....__________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

KB Services
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Joined: Mon Jun 04, 2007 7:32 pm

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Thanks for the pic. My ? is do you have to pull the knuckle off to do it?

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Big-Bird
Posts: 809
Joined: Thu Aug 03, 2006 4:41 pm
Car: 2000 Xterra on 'Roids & 2004 Quest SL

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If you only need to service the bearings inside the rotor hub then you doNOT need to remove the knuckle. You don't even need to removethe CV axle. Once you remove the wheel bearing lock nut, see the diagram, the rotor hub assembly will slide off the spindle.

If you need to replace the needle bearing inside the spindle, whichsupports the CV Axle's stub shaft, then removal of the knuckle does makethis part of the service easier.

Once the rotor hub is free you can remove the grease seal, remove thebearings and either replace them with new ones or wash everthing up invarsol, repack the old ones in high-temp bearing grease and reinstalleverthing. ( I highly recommend you use Nissan Original Equipmentgrease seals. My past experiences with aftermarket ones has been less than stellar.)

'Q' for you: Have you ever replaced a bearing race before? You will need abrass drift, and a ball peen hammer. The Brass drift won't damagethe machined surfaces of the rotor hub or the new races when you removeand replace them.


KB Services
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Joined: Mon Jun 04, 2007 7:32 pm

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Yes I have changed many a wheel bearing from the frozen one on my Camaro to my Ford Escort. I would guess the truck should be similar to the Escort. I try to stay nissan oe per my mech recomendation. With 290K mi. it's still running. My girlfriend wishes it would though.

KB Services
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Joined: Mon Jun 04, 2007 7:32 pm

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1991 Hardbody 4x4 front axel play. I took the inner and outer bearings out along with the hub and rotor. So my? is when I grab the shaft (he said shaft)how loose should it be? Tight, lil' play? Can I really feel the needle bearings inside the knuckle? Help I've got it torn down and need to finish.

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Big-Bird
Posts: 809
Joined: Thu Aug 03, 2006 4:41 pm
Car: 2000 Xterra on 'Roids & 2004 Quest SL

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What you perceive as excessive shaft movement is normal. Because the end of the CV axle locks in place inside your 4x4 hub you can't properly determine the correct amount of play with the spindle taken apart.

The best way to do this is to wiggle the outer CV joint itself while it's still all together. A small amount of play in this instance is normal

The needle bearing inside the spindle should roll freely and it wouldn't hurt to put some grease on a finger and repack that little unit in place. You do of course need to remove the CV axle to get at it. Look at the CV's stub shaft for signs of paneling where that bearing contacts the machined surface of the stub shaft. Paneling is flat spotting which indicates a bearing has seized or is getting close to it. I doubt this item will need to be replaced but it should be checked anyway.


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