1991 240sx wet plugs but no start
Car needs to start, please advise.
My car is almost done, and ready to start. It is a 1991 Nissan 240sx 5 speed base model with KA24DE (computer #24). I have tested all ignition components all the way back to the computer. I am positive the distributor timing is good at the distributor within +/- 4' (will fix later). My injectors are spraying and pump is pumping (hard-wired Walbro, I can here that sucker pump). Engine cranks right, and dry compression numbers are a little low, but the car has never ran and it was tested cold (between 110-130, wet test was 210 +/- 10psi). Car wants to start and will kick off for a second, and then stumble and die.When I pull the plugs for inspection they have black goo on them (I assume this was washed off the intake mani from attempting to use starting fluid). They are also wet, and stink of fuel. I have gapped them down to .030" and spark is fine when checked visually (bright white at .030", golden-orange at .044"), although it has never been tested on a scope.My concern is mainly for the cyls. Of course, I have been cranking on them, it seems that there should not be enough fuel on the plugs to keep them wet. Am I wrong? Also, could a bad pressure regulator do this? I will be installing an adjustable unit tommorrow, as doing another test of the coil. I throw codes 11 and 34. 11 is for Crank Angle Sensor. I follow the trouble tree in the FSM and find that all of the parts check out. Also, it is a brand new transistor and CAS. I did harness checks and the harness is fine. Code 34 is detonation sensor. On the 240sx they tend to just crumble and that is what has happened here. No surprise. And this shouldn't keep it from starting, should it? In the past it has thrown 12 and 21 as well (MAF and Ignition Input Signal, respectively). I have also thoroughly checked the computer's ground and power circuits. While it is not bolted down, it does not seem to be a problem. Also, can a misadjusted TPS cause the car not to run?The car will need to be started very soon, or I will need to put it into a shop, so any advice would be a great help. Thank you all. BTW any more info you need, just ask.
The knock sensor shouldn't keep it from starting. The tps can cause it to run like total crap and if it's way off will cause the car to shut off. I rescued a buddy on the Golden Gate Bridge with that issue.
I'd test the coil for sure though. Other thing is how's the distributor cap? Also have you gone over the mafs circuit and ensured the wiring is still intact? Other thing to check over is the mafs itself. I've seen weirder things happen personally with a mafs issue that left Scott, Chris and myself stumped for about 3 weeks.
I'd test the coil for sure though. Other thing is how's the distributor cap? Also have you gone over the mafs circuit and ensured the wiring is still intact? Other thing to check over is the mafs itself. I've seen weirder things happen personally with a mafs issue that left Scott, Chris and myself stumped for about 3 weeks.
I have been over the MAFS circuit and there is continuity all the way back to the computer. The MAFS reads .27v with the engine cold and the car off. I do not know if the voltage would go down or up as the engine approaches operating temp, though. The FSM says that it should be at approx .2v, what the **** does that mean?!?!? Do you think this is fine? I thought possibly a MAF too, because I have had it keep my last SX from starting too, but there is no good place in town to find one to swap out for a sec. The cap actually just got changed (to a used, but known good cap I had lying around), because I was setting dizzy timing and broke off the center button by putting the cap on crooked. The problem was actually almost identical then, this is why I hestitate to condemn the coil, but testing it won't hurt. I am going to go out today, and check for leaking injector o-rings, reset TPS, check coil, and hope to pressure test the fuel system for a suspect FPR. The thing that kicks me is that the plugs are getting wet. Also, I would think that if it was a MAF issue I would have a constant code 12. Also, the car would at least start if I disconnect it. The only time I get code 12 is when I disconnect it, though.
Re: (180fan)
I just checked my TPS resting setting and it was at 9.8K! The car was beyond WOT at rest. So there is still this to fix. But when I get it taken care of I will let you know more details as I get them. I know that the MAFS connections are good, and that they are free of corrosion. I wonder if the voltage is right. And even if it failed and the computer had an MAFS issue, it should start with it disconnected shouldn't it?
Re: (180fan)
Hit it today, started and ran. Apparently it was the TPS. Found a friend in KC that has a MAF/TB combo and can get it to me by thurs. Which is okay, I need to get it to shift a little better (bypass the crap box) and wire up a fan. Also, I want to wire up my ignition. If anyone sees this they should look for my classifieds ad for selling an emanage. I need to pay for this stuff afterall.