1991 240 sx: removing fuel rail help needed

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vancouverbc
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Took me 2 hrs to get the 12mm nut off that was below the fuel regulator. I tested the injectors and there was no leaking. Is there a tool for tight places?

Im getting a code 45 which is fuel injector leak. Is there anything else that causes too much fuel for ecm to correct?


lrb_2000
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did you check the orings on the injectors?

vancouverbc
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lrb_2000 wrote:did you check the orings on the injectors?
That is what the test does. The fuel rail contains the injector and orings. If fuel was leaking past bottom oring it would show with the fuel rail out. ill post a picture.

vancouverbc
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you can see injector tip sticking out. the orings etc are in fuel rail. the big circular black insulator just keeps out air. im not sure if a leaking insulator ever causes problems. it wont cause any more fuel to leak, obviously.


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Hijacker
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The insulators are for vibration actually. The o-rings are on the injectors in the rail. They keep the fuel from leaking around the injector and out into the world. Since the ECU can't actually tell if it's an o-ring that's leaking, I bet the injector itself is leaking. I've had that happen on a few of my injectors over the years.

Of course, I didn't think a Nissan ODB-I ECU could detect a leaky injector.

And as far as getting to those hard to reach bolts, a 1/4" drive 12mm flex socket is the best way.

vancouverbc
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Hijacker wrote:The insulators are for vibration actually. The o-rings are on the injectors in the rail. They keep the fuel from leaking around the injector and out into the world. Since the ECU can't actually tell if it's an o-ring that's leaking, I bet the injector itself is leaking. I've had that happen on a few of my injectors over the years.

Of course, I didn't think a Nissan ODB-I ECU could detect a leaky injector.

And as far as getting to those hard to reach bolts, a 1/4" drive 12mm flex socket is the best way.
Thanks for the information. Appreciated. What is the best way to get fuel rail back on? I cant get the injector(closest to fuel pressure reg.) in because of how the 12 mm nut/bolt is.(correction. it is 12mm nut)

Im not sure if it can tell injector is leaking. I think it is only detecting that there is too much gas.
Modified by vancouverbc at 2:29 PM 2/26/2008

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Hijacker
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I would probably try to thread that bolt on first and then seat the rail after the bolt is in a few threads. If you try to thread it too far in, you lose your wiggle room you need. Same with if you try to start the other bolts first. It'll just take some patience, and a lot of cussing. Eventually you'll be holding your lip right and everything will fall in place.

vancouverbc
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Hijacker wrote:I would probably try to thread that bolt on first and then seat the rail after the bolt is in a few threads. If you try to thread it too far in, you lose your wiggle room you need. Same with if you try to start the other bolts first. It'll just take some patience, and a lot of cussing. Eventually you'll be holding your lip right and everything will fall in place.
Ok, i'll try that.

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rogoman
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vancouverbc wrote:Im getting a code 45 which is fuel injector leak. Is there anything else that causes too much fuel for ecm to correct?
The FPR may be bad causing excessive pressure.

vancouverbc
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rogoman wrote:The FPR may be bad causing excessive pressure.
Yep, i think that would cause the code 45 but my fuel pressue is a few lbs within spec.

vancouverbc
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I seemed to get the fuel rail and injectors in. I was worried that it was pinching/ pushing down on insulator on one side as it went in. I just tightened the 12 mm nut and it went is. Same with the other 3 injectors. Clean insulators before putting injectors back. yikes.

vancouverbc
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wobble extenstion worked well for 12 mm nut under fpr


Modified by vancouverbc at 4:47 PM 2/27/2008

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youngun21a
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Did that in my lunch hour but couldn't get the rail to line up,I used a long extension,and a 12mm socket and it work for me,but using a wobble extension would be better.Cause I also had that problem but my injectors where not leaking so my next step is to check the FPR,and see why I'm getting a hint of gas smell in the oil.


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