1990 Stanza electrical issues
-
f.krajewski
- Posts: 2
- Joined: Sat Dec 23, 2006 4:04 pm
- Car: nissan stanza
1990 Stanza electrical issues
I just bought a 100,000K Stanza and have a couple electrical problems. #1 Horn won't work. Fuse is OK, contact under st. wheel cover is OK, relay is OK and the horns themselves function. Guesses? #2 Same with cruise control (ditto to my '86 Maxima) though the dash light comes on. #3 "power" vs "comfort" control for trans. doesn't even light up. Are these 3 connected? All fuses are OK. Not sure how to test relays.
-
KASilvia90
- Posts: 66
- Joined: Wed May 04, 2005 8:44 am
- Car: 1990 Nissan 240SX KA24E M/T
- Contact:
Re: 1990 Stanza electrical issues (f.krajewski)
I don't really know about the electrical problems in general except try looking for breaks in the wiring on horn. But heres how to test a relay
Testing a relay is simple, you just need a. $15 or so digital multimeter and some 14-16ga wire. I dont trust analog multimeters myself, they are inaccurate.
On the top of the relay you will see a pattern, there will be a number with a line (possibly a little swirly symbol sitting on the line) going to another number, and then beside it a number with a broken line going to another number.
A relay works simply, a small current goes through one side, it magnetizes a coil and then it connects (usually makes a bit of a pop doing so) an open circuit to allow energy to flow through. Now The numbers on top, the solid line is the circuit that has to get power to "snap connect" the circuit with the broken line (the broken line has a __/ __ shape, think of that SNAP as the "/" slaming shut to make a ______.. a solid connection). The numbers are used as locators, the number beside the line should be beside a prong on the underside.
So to test:Take a digital multimeter and set it to continuity (some will make a whistley sound when circuit is solid, depends on the brand). Place one probe on one of the prongs for the "already completed circuit" and place the other on the other end of that circuit. Their should be a complete circuit, if not replace.
If thats okay Now take some wire (helps to have connectors to fit prongs, should be a a buck each at most) and ground one prong of the already completed circuit (I dont know if reversal affect anything, i dont think so though, never had a problem) and connect the other to a 12v source, you should hear a pop. But just to be safe, check continuity of the "open circuit" the same way you did earlier. If that fails the replace.
Testing a relay is simple, you just need a. $15 or so digital multimeter and some 14-16ga wire. I dont trust analog multimeters myself, they are inaccurate.
On the top of the relay you will see a pattern, there will be a number with a line (possibly a little swirly symbol sitting on the line) going to another number, and then beside it a number with a broken line going to another number.
A relay works simply, a small current goes through one side, it magnetizes a coil and then it connects (usually makes a bit of a pop doing so) an open circuit to allow energy to flow through. Now The numbers on top, the solid line is the circuit that has to get power to "snap connect" the circuit with the broken line (the broken line has a __/ __ shape, think of that SNAP as the "/" slaming shut to make a ______.. a solid connection). The numbers are used as locators, the number beside the line should be beside a prong on the underside.
So to test:Take a digital multimeter and set it to continuity (some will make a whistley sound when circuit is solid, depends on the brand). Place one probe on one of the prongs for the "already completed circuit" and place the other on the other end of that circuit. Their should be a complete circuit, if not replace.
If thats okay Now take some wire (helps to have connectors to fit prongs, should be a a buck each at most) and ground one prong of the already completed circuit (I dont know if reversal affect anything, i dont think so though, never had a problem) and connect the other to a 12v source, you should hear a pop. But just to be safe, check continuity of the "open circuit" the same way you did earlier. If that fails the replace.