This is my 5th G50. Never replaced or refurbished a power steering rack. Any input? OEM new is ridiculous. Buy a refurbished/rebuilt one. Install. Rebuild the current one is the plan. Where does one source a refurbished OEM. I only see Maval and A1 cardone

4900160U10
OEM 195$ ebay

The FSM has a pretty thorough section on the rack. What is the issue with the current one? I'd steer clear (pun intended) of Cardone. Having your rack rebuilt is likely a good option, depending on the specific issues.

Havent exactly gotten under there and pinpointed it yet but there is some fluid on the garage floor and steering felt slightly off last ride

well, you know rack boots are common wear items. If not torn up, and allowing grit to get on the shaft, then perhaps you could get by with replacing the boots. my boots get damp (no tears), but not enuf to drip, so I leave the rack alone. Seals should be replaceable if you had to (why I suggest maybe taking the rack and the FSM to a rebuilder if you go that route). Texasoil when he was around used to suggest to me to use a small amount (like 2 oz) of MMO mixed in with the PS fluid to swell the seals. The BITOG fanboys disagree with MMO, but its your call.
Also, keep in mind that the rack bushings may be worn/sloppy if everything else seems good. I'm sure amayama still has the bushings, and best part is they are super light for shipping.

The low pressure lines from the reservoir are common leak points. I've also had a high pressure line spray like a shower head, but only when the wheel is turned against the stop. Anything is fair game at this point, but most of the leaky racks I've heard mentioned are from 94+.

I just replaced the steering rack in my girlfriend's 1994 Q45 last week with a Cardone rebuilt steering rack -- the cost for the steering rack after the core charge was amazingly only $49, but I bought the last rack in stock on Amazon at the time. Steering definitely feels a bit snappier after replacing it, and most importantly, the rack isn't leaking anymore.

My biggest tips are to remove the sway bar so it isn't in the way of the rack (might as well buy a set of bushings and end links for that while you're at it), and remove the driver side sway bar mount (the bracket that bolts into the frame) to get more clearance. Place a floor jack under the transmission and lift it up as high as you can to get enough clearance to get the rack out. The downside to getting a rebuilt rack is that you don't know what kind of shape the actual internals of the rack are in aside from it having new seals and boots, luckily the rack I got doesn't have a ton of play in it so I must've got a decent one. I don't have much advice on rebuilding the rack as I obviously bought a pre-rebuilt one.

Make sure to clean up the 4 crush washers on both the low and high pressure fluid lines, I wasn't able to find replacements so I ended up having to reuse the old ones. Heat them up to reanneal them and sand them a bit so they're as clean as possible if you can't find replacements.

UPDATE. 49726Y0100
4972060U00

Hose and copper washers. Hose was compromised. High pressure hose. Reason why it was leaking so bad. Replaced. Refilled and good to go

I had one of those go bad on my old Q. It wouldn't leak at idle, but if you turned the wheels a bit or especially to a lock, and it looked like shower head spraying red fluid under there.