1990 Q45 MAFS situation

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frenetic
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Car: 1993 240sx Coupe

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zer...oblem this thread was the beginning.

I used some electrical contact spray on the MAFS when I found out that was the problem. It ran fine for exactly 2 weeks, then the stuttering came up again, so I cleaned the MAFS again. Ran for a day, and since then (about 3 days now) almost everytime, before I drive it, I have to re-spray the sensor. Infiniti wants 600 (!!!) dollars for a new MAFS! Don't see any part outs on craigslist around here either. Is there any long term solution on the cheap for this problem, or will I need to re-clean the MAFS every time I want to drive it? This afternoon I decided to spray the plug as well, just to see what that would solve. I think my next step is to get a new plug and re-solder the connector on to it.

What is recommended in this situation? I want to replace the MAFS but not at the expense of just buying a parts car outright!


Q45tech
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Car: 1990 Q45 342,400 miles 22 years ownership with original engine
1995 G20t 5 speed 334,000 miles 16" 2002 wheels - 205/50/16 Sr20ve vvl

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I have replaced about $15,000 in parts on my 90 Q over the years plus the extended warranty went for another $8,000. Many of them up to 3 times and some [shocks, upper links 6 times].

Buying a junker to get just a MAF is iffy because of age but you should be able to salvage $2-$3,000 in useful parts. They may not just be what you need at the moment.

Study the MAF rehab posts and you will see where to resolder the 12 or so locations.

maxnix
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1995 Infiniti Q45t
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frenetic wrote:Infiniti wants 600 (!!!) dollars for a new MAFS!
Even at IoS? Remember it is a wear item, so used ones are at least 14 years old and thus well worn.

Hope you don't think you deserve a discount on parts and labor because of your car's age beyond the discount you paid in light of the deferred maintenance for which you must pay now or kiss it goodbye?

qship96
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About $450 from Joe, at least it was last November when I bought mine.

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frenetic
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maxnix wrote:
Even at IoS? Remember it is a wear item, so used ones are at least 14 years old and thus well worn.

Hope you don't think you deserve a discount on parts and labor because of your car's age beyond the discount you paid in light of the deferred maintenance for which you must pay now or kiss it goodbye?
Even about $450 at IOS like qship96 said. For the cost of the car vs. the cost of the part, that's expensive. I didn't buy the car to be cheap, I knew the costs because I used to work at an Infiniti dealership. I will buy a new one if I have to, but I will not pay that much if I can find a cheap working one elsewhere. I have been replacing things for a few weeks now and am trying to cut costs where I can.

And of course if I can fix it myself, then all the better. I just don't know much about electrical components like this to know the signs of a bad unit or not. Visibly all the contacts look fine on the plug and the sensor. I haven't opened up the MAFS itself yet because it appears I need to break a seal. I drove it for a while today and didn't see any problems after I sprayed the connector, so if that holds until I find a replacement sensor on the cheap then I am happy!

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Q451990
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Well, it's up to you. New is pretty much foolproof, but expensive - or used is a crapshoot. You can buy three or four ebay units for the cost of new and roll the dice...

You can also try to resolder yours... see the thread in this forum - but I would have a spare on hand already before trying it unless you have another car to drive.

Heath

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frenetic
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Car: 1993 240sx Coupe

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Q451990 wrote:Well, it's up to you. New is pretty much foolproof, but expensive - or used is a crapshoot. You can buy three or four ebay units for the cost of new and roll the dice...

You can also try to resolder yours... see the thread in this forum - but I would have a spare on hand already before trying it unless you have another car to drive.

Heath
Yeah I just pulled it out, saw what would be needed to resolder it and realized if I did screw it up I would be riding the bus for a couple days. Fickle little things..

Q45tech
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Car: 1990 Q45 342,400 miles 22 years ownership with original engine
1995 G20t 5 speed 334,000 miles 16" 2002 wheels - 205/50/16 Sr20ve vvl

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Your signature shows 3 cars, like the majority where Q45 is not their only car.For me I have 3 cars and at least 2 are always running.If you buy 2-3 used MAF the odds are that at least one will function somewhat while you repair the others.

I always carry a spare rebuilt MAF since I determined that years of vibration and heat cycling affect the solder. I don't want to be soldering on the side of road or in a strange town 200 miles from home.

Same with critical electronics like ecu, tcu, HVAC, PS controller, FPCU.I have a foam lined locking metal box with slots for modules that goes on every out of town trip beyond 100 miles...............think of the cost of flat bedding a Q45 home just because you didn't have a spare on board.

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frenetic
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Hasn't been updated since I signed up here. The car had a rough start this morning before work and the check engine light came on, so spraying the connectors last night was no use. I was able to drive another car to work and should be fine until I get this fixed.

I would like to solder this sensor but based on the thread about it, there wasn't any specifics of what needs re-soldered. zer...-92-q is the link I assume with the best information. What should be re-soldered here? Anything that looks bad, everything, or specific contact points? Thank you

Q45tech
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Car: 1990 Q45 342,400 miles 22 years ownership with original engine
1995 G20t 5 speed 334,000 miles 16" 2002 wheels - 205/50/16 Sr20ve vvl

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You will need a magnifying glass and probably a low power microscope to view the larger solder pads.resoldering only the items that connect off board sensor and output on board to splice and the splice to connector. None of the on board components ever need resoldering.

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goody90q45
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frenetic wrote:zer...oblem

this thread was the beginning......I used some electrical contact spray on the MAFS when I found out that was the problem. !
I read through the thread you posted and didn't see any mention of pulling codes from the ECU or ohming injectors and knock sensors. How about the fuel pump? Any buzzing coming from the trunk? Have you done a fuel pressure check? Does the CEL ever turn off? Mileage? Maintenance history? At some point you'll have to get your hands dirty and do some diagnostics or pay a shop to do it.

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frenetic
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Car: 1993 240sx Coupe

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It's the MAFS, I don't see what else needs to be said. I re-soldered it 2 days ago and have had no recurring problems since. Still searching for a backup MAFS though. The CEL only comes on after the MAFS fails and the car goes into failsafe mode or whatever, with the RPM limiter etc. It goes off after restarting the car.


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