1990 N/A Help Needed

[mbasaraba]

Greetings Z'rs,

I bought a 1990 Z N/A from a buddy of mine. I had ran the codes and it was 12 and 34. He had a slight front end crash that broke the MAS. When I first looked at it the car would start but run really rough. The day I went to pick up the car it wouldnt start at all.

I bought the car to resell it. He just wanted it gone. Has new paint 2 years ago, new 18 rims with new tires (less than 200 miles), seats recovered, original wheels with new tires, transmission rebuilt 6 months ago.

Here is a picture of it...



Issue 1...

I called O'reily auto parts and was going to order both. The guy told me he would replace that MAS first and see if that cleared it up since it might cause the 34 also. Since this is my first Nissan, I figured it couldnt hurt. I got the MAS yesterday and installed it last night. Car started right up but it is flooded pretty bad. (blowing black smoke and hesitation) I ran the codes still 34 so I know I need to replace/relocate the KS. I have found lots of things on HOW to replace it but have not seen a part number to use from a parts store. Also, does it NEED a harness to connect it? I was plan on the back side of the intake install. I found a few posts that had a link to buy a replacement but when I clicked them it was a bad link.

Issue 2...

transmission. It shifts pretty good most of the time. I punched it down and it didnt SLIP it went totally neutral then SLAMMED into gear. Is there something I can check on this? Some test? I checked the fluid while it was warm and it was full. He told me it is doing the same thing it was doing when he had it rebuilt. There is less than 500 miles on the rebuild.

Issue 3...

Plugs, LoL I searched for those dang plugs then look up on Youtube and seen ahhh coil over packs! So now I know where they are and got the plug number. (NGK PFR6B-11) While I found info on what to take off for the coil pack itself, I havent seen anything on how to get the PLUG off. Do I need a special tool that goes into the clip? I havent seen any pictures of the clips on here and I already cracked one and then stopped. Cylinder 6 is a bear! all the piping over it is going to be a PITA but I am going to check the plugs and make sure they are the right ones.

I am new to Nissan so any advice would be greatly appreciated. I have done searches on the coil/plug issue and havent seen any answers to my question.

[mbasaraba]

Went to my search and found a guy stating to make sure 2 plugs werent plugged in wrong. Thought i would go look just to make sure. Well they were plugged in correctly but...

Hmmm this could be an issue...



I stripped the wire back and noticed there is a thicker strand that is fold back into the harness covering, is this supposed to be like this? I twisted the wires, put a blob of solder on and taped it up.

I have the battery off to reset codes. Suppose to leave it unplugged for 30 minutes right? Is that the fastest way to clear codes? I know on my Mazda MX3 it was disconnect the negative cable then hold the brake down for 60 seconds and it cleared codes.

[mbasaraba]

Update...

Since the clip one cylinder 1 was cracked I could get that coil pack off so I decided to check the plugs. Wrong ones... NGK plug but he had BKR5EGP installed and it looks burnt out BAD. I will have to pick up a set of plugs also.

I still REALLY need to know how to disconnect the plugs from the coil pack, I dont want to break another one!

[mbasaraba]

I called O'Reilly and they have a PFR5B-11 instead of the 6B. Is this going to work right or no??

Guess either no one cares to answer or everyone is out for the 4th...

[nissanfreak12]

You realize you only gave it an hour between the first and the last post.

No, those plugs will not work. The made a specific plug for the Z, you need the OEM which you can get at dealer, conceptz, z1, IPP. The chain stores only carry 5b, the are too short when they sit in the hole.

Coil pack plugs, they are old and brittle, just be gentle, they are very easy to break. You can buy replacement ones, little pricey, but they will not be broken.

The plug that is in the pic, looks like egr temp sensor, I may be mistaken.

The plugs that could be mis plugged are the knock sensor and vtc, easy to mistake

[nissanfreak12]

By the way, Welcome!! You will enjoy her once you get it driving good.

[mbasaraba]

I was working on it while posting. All codes cleared. That broken wire was from the KS.

The car was surging at idle so I adjusted the TPS. I got it to stop surging but then the RPMs were way up. I got it idling now steady at 1500, a bit fast.

I noticed the air intake tubes don't fit right, I am figuring this could be causing issues. There was no clamp on the tube where it connects to the pipe coming through the front. When I try to get it to connect there and on the TB it is too short. Think I might look at an after market tube kit.

I appreciate your reply nissanfreak. I don't really want to enjoy it though. Just want it running decent o sell. I have a JCW Mini and a supercharged Fiat 2000 spider. I always wanted a 300 TT but never found one at a decent price.

Plus this one is an automatic. Having a sports car with an auto is like getting married to a super model without a vagina. Nice to look at but what's the point.

[mbasaraba]

Still running with no codes but #2 cylinder is still not firing. I pulled the coil pack and there is plenty of spark. I pulled the injector plug and it was pretty corroded so I ordered new ones from Z1 and replaced all 6. I cleaned all the injector male connections. #2 still not firing.

Am thinking it must be the injector itself. How do I test this? Ohm meter with a T pin in each wire with a lead from the tester hooked to each one?

If I am not getting 12.5-14.5 (I think i read) then the injector is bad?

If I have to change the injector the whole plenum has to come off? If so are there certain gaskets I should get to replace?

I noticed the equalizer tube orings are flat when I took it off. Are they supposed to be round? Good idea to replace them?

[t.mcginley.jr]

Google "300zx injector replacement" and you will get PLENTY of answers to those questions.

From NolimitZ32 from another post: "get ohm-meter and ohm across the 2 contacts on the injector where the plug goes, you should see 10-14ohms" If you see more than that then yes the injector is shot. You can also start the engine and hold a long shaft screwdriver to the injector cap and hold the handle to your ear. You should here the same loud clicking from each injector. A bad injector will sound different/weak/make no sound.

You don't have to pull the plenum, you can dremel it a little to get an injector out. There's several how-to's on the "Injector Dremel Method".

All O-rings should be round, they flatten out over time from pressure and heat. When you replace the injector, make sure you replace both O-rings and don't pinch them putting it in.

[demonZ73]

i beleiv its 10-14 ohms on the injectors and also try to aply 12 volts to the injector itself and u should hear it click (may just need to be freed up) yes you do need to pull the entired plenum to access the injectors, and the plenum gasket you should be able to get away with re-using it IF it is in good shape if not replace it the balance tube o-rings should yes be a circle but no not flatten.......hope this helps you

[demonZ73]

ok sorry i was typing mine when t.mcginley.jr must have posted his and i didant notice haha lol he probly knows more than me listen to him.......lol

[mbasaraba]

Want to thank both of you for your replies. Seems either plugged or bad I will need to replace the injector so I will start there and see if it clicks.

The car was driven less than 5000 miles in 6 years so that could have gummed the injector or filter I guess even though the rest of them seem to be working fine.

I will update after I find something out.

[mbasaraba]

Deems method worked great. Pulled injector and ran wires to the male ends, absolutely nothing. Looks like for a new one.

Thanks again guys.

[mbasaraba]

Well the car is SMOOTH now. Running great! Put a new injector in, $117 with tax at Advanced, and that did it.

Now I have another issue but non motor related.

Headlight.

This car has the passenger side light broken out so I bought one off of ebay. It said it was an exact fit for a 1990 so I bought it, $80.

I got the light and everything seemed fine. The glass and shape of light looked the same. I spent over an hour getting the old one out, they sure dont make that EASY do they? I get the old one out and something is wrong, this thing looks NOTHING like the new one. The mount is totally different and the bolts are not even in the right spot. There are extra mounting on the old light.

What did I get here?

Here is the light I got, the bottom of it.



Here is the base of the light that was in the car that I took out...



Advice? I cant swap brackets, the new light doesnt have any side mounting like the old one does. What do I need to look for when I buy one? The auction on Ebay didnt show the sides or bottom so there was no way to tell before I bought it.

[demonZ73]

i dont know much about the headlights but you got to be careful on ebay man, alot of $hit is chinese nock-off stuff or some dude making it in his basement ya know lol iv been there w some stuff

[nissanfreak12]

It is very possible you just have the first year head they came out with. It looks like it bolts up though. One thing to check, does it have nipple in the glass? Maybe turn it over and take pics of it, could be a JDM headlight, no nipple=JDM.

[t.mcginley.jr]

Yeah I was just gonna say what nissanfreak said... you could've bought a JDM one as opposed to your USDM one. As long as it mounts up it should be fine

[mbasaraba]

As far as I can see there is NO nipple in the glass. The wiring and mounting for the bulbs is totally different also. The new one has a 3 prong plug while the old is 2 prong.

The mounts for the light are not close. The mounts on the new one are an inch closer together so there is nowhere for the bolts to go.

Thanks for the info. Looks like I will be fighting to get my money back.

[t.mcginley.jr]

Yeah see if they take returns, hopefully they do. They must have sent you one for a different year or something. Sounds like a ripoff

[nissanfreak12]

Those are JDM, there are many members on here who would swap it out for you, I would be one of them if you have both sides. Take a pic of them and post it up.

[mbasaraba]

I only have the one side. Passenger side was broken. The other from the same guy is still up on eBay for $80 with free shipping.

[t.mcginley.jr]

If you don't want the hassle, try and see if any junk yards/used parts places have the correct headlight. Or check the classifieds on this site. Or craigslist.