1990 ka24e madness

[coltsd44]

Well, first off, I would like to apologize or the lack of pictures, and noobness. I bought my first 1990 240sx 5sp. about a month ago. 170k on engine, fairly good condition. $1800.

I drove it home, everything worked great, very strong engine from what i could tell. Went to work, and my older brother decides, " hey lets call the lil bro to drive his new car!" And me being the nice guy, lets him borrow it.

Well, he drifted it into a center divider, ripped the transmission out and in the process f****d the internals of the engine. ( I was mad to say the least)

Now he bought me a "new" used 5sp. transmission, I bought the clutch/fly wheel, cuz it needed a new one anyways. And he bought his friend's '90 240sx auto with 150k on it to pull the engine from. ( that car had a bent frame from side of a dirt bank going 60, however, engine and everything still works great!)

So here is my dilema. I am no mechanic and i need to do an engine swap. To me the concept seems failry simple:

1. Un-plug all the wires, label them, pull the engine from 170k car2. repeat on 150k car3. reinstall 150k motor on 170k car and plug all the wires back in.4. install "new" 5sp. transmission on 150k motor in 170k car.

Is that correct?

Or will there be some big problem swaping the auto engine to the 5spd. engine? (remember, im a noob, so any small factor will throw me off)

Also, what are some things you would replace while swapping an engine?( i hear water pump alot)

Any help will be appreciated. thanks

[gvr-4579]

The only thing i can think of is that you will need to put a pilot bearing into the end of the auto engine's crank for the manual trans input shaft, i think its only 2 or 3 dollars. Or atleast i had to on mine. Other than that you have the right idea.

[coltsd44]

I got a new clutch kit, with a pilot bearing, so I think its all gravy.

Anything else you guys would recommend replacing while shes out?

[jmorgan6]

If you do nothing else i'd change the timing belt while you had the engine out.

[coltsd44]

They have timing chains. But would you guys still replace it?

I'm also thinking I will need new engine and transmission mounts... good idea?

I took millions of pictures of my engine, so I would remember where everything goes. I'll post them right after I eat, along with a little description of what I did.

[Kraelic]

front and rear engine oil seals, check the timing chain tensioners for free operation, valve cover gasket, water pump, thermostat, and oil pump?

That should be cheap insurance and easier to do while it is out of the car, and pull the engine and transmission as one unit, remove the auto and swap it to manual before reinstalling as one unit. use all your bolts from the existing manual setup.

[90sxappeal]

Definetely would replace rear main seal and oil pan gasket. Much easier when engine is out. I made the mistake of replacing clutch and not rear main seal, but then had to do it all over again.

[coltsd44]

[coltsd44]

front and rear engine oil seals, check the timing chain tensioners for free operation, valve cover gasket, water pump, thermostat, and oil pump?

That should be cheap insurance and easier to do while it is out of the car, and pull the engine and transmission as one unit, remove the auto and swap it to manual before reinstalling as one unit. use all your bolts from the existing manual setup.

Thanks for the reply, the only problem with the bolts part, is most of the bolts are bent like macaroni from when the transmission was ripped out.

Anyone know where I can get all the bolts, and that thin metal sheet that goes between the 5sp transmission and engine?

(im going to pick n pull tomoro to look)

Also, a clutch line would be nice from there too.

[coltsd44]

Also, if you are pulling one of these engines, DO NOT wrap the chain around the engine unless you are absolutely positive that it will not turn, twist, or drop, trust me, mine dropped about 3 inches when I first started pulling it out, almost crushed my friends hand.

So what we did, is remove a bolt in the front around the fan area (not actually sure what it went to, but it felt strong) and one from the rear where the transmission bolts up and attached the chain to those two bolts with lug nuts holding the chain in place between the bolt and engine.

[Airmanspecial]

I dont know if this is going to be a daily driver.....if no then whats the rush?Why not take the motor and transmission apart an rebuild them. have some low compression pistions and a mild cam build with better rocker/valvs/springs ect...it will still run but youll be all that more closer to making a reliable turboed car when you get the cash. and for taking out the old stuff, just take the transmission/motor out all at once put the car on jack stands disconnect everything, tilt and pull....,and when you bolt up your new stuff go out and by some good grade 8 bolts with new motor mounts/the works local hardware store should have metric bolts in grade 8, if you got the time...why not? the chiltons manuel gives you good bolt up points and where to install the chain/hoist for your cherry picker. hope it helps!

[Airmanspecial]

you said youre not a mechanic....after this car you will be!!!! just dont give up! research!! everything!!! measure twice cut once...mechanic work is fairly logical....so if it looks wrong it probably is, its not an old ford/chevy so dont use a hammer.....and if its hard to turn....dont force it unless you are absolutly sure...label things, get a service manual, learn how to use a torque wrench.....and buy one if you dont have one...break away types are the easiest to use. dont just use the german method (goodntight) of torqueing becasue with modernish cars its not necciarily how tight...but what order to tighten....I hope I havent scared you into quiting, but with the skills youll learn fixing this thing will save you gobs of cash later down the line casue you you wont have to pay some jacko 700 bucks for brake job...(ive seen peopl epay more...) or 1500 to change a head gasket when you could do it on a sunday afternoon for the cost of the part..hope this other really long post helps!!

[Vegascorbin]

What he said. Also give carfull consideration to changing oil pump. they do fail and it is really bad when they do.

[coltsd44]

Thanks so much airman.

well, this will actually be my daily driver, so I wasn't looking to boost it until after college and stuff. And, because of college, I was just looking to get it running as good as it did before. So for now I think I will just keep stock internals and stuff, and just try to get it in asap ( while making sure everything is done right)

Where are those chiltion manuals? or whatever you called them? i checked autozone n pepboys. does kragen have it or sumthing?

and no, im not scared, kinda excited to get it running lol.

[Vegascorbin]

[QUOTE=coltsd44Where are those chiltion manuals? or whatever you called them? i checked autozone n pepboys. does kragen have it or sumthing?QUOTE]

Too old for local auto store most likly. We found ours on E-Bay.

Chilton and Haynes are the 2 top publishers of aftermarket automobile repair manuals. Both are good but some like one over the other just due to writing style etc.

New they go for $15 to $30. If I remember we paid about $14 for ours.

[coltsd44]

Okay, thanks

Im still looking for a clutch line, and that thin metal sheet that goes between the engine and transmission, if anyone has an extra for sale. thanks everyone.

more pics taken, ill post 'em later

[coltsd44]

well, I just bought the chliton's manual online, and I found that they have clutch lines there too. However, I dont really want to pay $35 for a small piece of metal tube. Can you get them at kragen? Also, still looking for M/T bolts for flywheel and transmission.

Anyone have one for sale? I tried pick n pull, but all the 240s were stripped =[

Also, I have my parts car that I'm trying to get money off of, if anyone wants any pics of anything, or pieces you need let me know.

(has a freshly rebuilt auto transmission, wiring, 18's, brand new drilled n slotted rotors, good body parts from the doors back, pretty much anything, let me know what you need and I'll see what I have)

I know, that part should go to classifieds, I'll post a separate add later with pics.

[Vegascorbin]

If you feel up to it you can buy stright line and bend as needed for your clutch line.

Have you tried a dealer for the bolts?

[liquid_cool]

here is a little tip for someone new to ripping **** apart....bag it..thats rite..just like your last date paper or plastic..i prefer plastic freezer bags with the label area on it..and use a permanant marker to write what bolts go with wat and actually tape the baggie to the part removed..this keeps things neet and easly organized....that way you dont have en endless bucket of "omg! whats this go to ...extra parts"..you will know exactly where everything came from ; this will make the build go along alot faster..good luck.

[coltsd44]

yea, i started doing that, but i forgot to label everythign, so now, its just a bunch of bags with similar nuts n bolts in each.

but its okay, cuz i still have another car to go! ill make sure i take alot more pics, and label everything!!!

[180weaver]

Im confused, what is the problem with the metal plate from the manual your brother bought, or did you already find one. With the clutch line, i would recommend, if you plan on keeping the car, going on ebay and buying a steel braided line and possibly clutch slave cylinder at the same time. When i did my transmission work i went to home depot and found all the bolts i needed.

[ALEX_HOPPER]

how long would it take to pull the engine

[coltsd44]

it took me a day (6hrs total) by myself, and that was the first time i've done any mechanic type stuff (i just learned how to change oil a month ago)

[coltsd44]

can you send the specs on the bolts used for the flywheel. thats really all i need, and a starter, and that plate.

[180weaver]

i thought you were talking about the bolts for the bell housing. I have my chiltons somewhere and can see if the specs for the flywheel ones are in there and let you know, i do remember them being different from the auto.

[coltsd44]

yea, im pretty sure they are, and a dealership wants $10 each... $60 for some stupid (but extremely necessary) bolts. well, i guess thats how they get you, I also found some online for $30, thats half what I would pay at a dealership, and i also found some at pick n pull, but i cant get the transmission off (those are free =p).

I think ill try to get some at a hardware store, but if they dont have it then ill keep trying to get those ones at pick n pull.

TY soooo much if you can get me specs on em.

(i got the transmission bolts from pick n pull, but the transmission is stuck)

I'm sooo close to driving again. 6 bolts and a day of hard labor, and cha-ching!! im rollin again!! lol

[coltsd44]

what wires need to be plugged into the transmission in order to make it start? some of mine are cut and idk what to do, cuz all it does is try to start, its like no fuel is getting to the engine... please help!!