Post by
goody90q45 »
https://forums.nicoclub.com/goody90q45-u31761.html
Sun Mar 09, 2008 2:56 am
Welcome to NICO Sam. I'm the guy that called you yesterday and suggested that you join and post up your issues in this forum. After reading your Craigslist ad and your blog I knew that the problem with your Q was something very simple and not worth letting it go at such a low price. Besides that, the Q is much more of a babe magnet for a spry 80 year old than an old beater truck.
From talking to you on the phone you told me that other than the MAF code from your ECU you're not having the typical MAF problems which would be rising/falling RPMS, stalling, and upon restart driving away like nothing ever happened. Even after changing the MAF and pigtail you said you had the same symptoms and no CEL (check engine light). It would be nice to know what codes are stored in the ECU now. Could there really be a problem wit the MAF or is it the pigtail that was wired in?
Your description leads me, and everyone else who's posted so far, to have you check the fuel delivery system- fuel pressure, fuel pump, fuel pump contol unit (FPCU), and fuel filter. Your Q is at about 120k miles and that's just about when all Q's will need at least a new fuel pump. Don't go throw $$ at parts though until you've done a few simple checks. Start with a known good fuel filter. Do you know when the last time yours was changed?
Wes's (elwesso) suggestion to check fuel pressure would be a good start. This is done by installing an in-line pressure gauge on the outlet line from the fuel filter to the injector rail. The fuel filter is on the passenger side below the fuse box. Your mechanic should have this setup in his bag of tools. Crank the engine and you should read in the 40psi range. If you can keep the engine running and raise the rpm it should maintain pressure.
Brian and Tech have you looking at the individual components of the fuel system which is something you may be able to do today while you wait to get in to see your mechanic. Start by examing the connector on the FPCU. Remove just a couple of the top fasteners on the rear trunk trim and you'll be able to reach in and unplug the FPCU. You can see it in the background in the pic mounted under the rear deck. Is there any sign of burnt pins in the FPCU or the connector?
The FPCU should be replaced when the fuel pump goes bad and if the previous owner did one and not the other you may have inherited their problem. The pic shows the FPCU unplugged. By installing a jumper from the pin shown to ground, the fuel pump will be grounded out to run on high speed only. If your Q runs like a bat out of hell with the pump grounded then the problem is a fried FPCU.
Finally, listen to the fuel pump with the car idling. Do you hear what sounds like a swarm of bees in the trunk? You could have a bad fuel pump and a bad FPCU.
Do these couple of checks and you should have a pretty good idea of what the fuel delivery system is doing. Let us know how it turns out.