1990 300zx N/A Issues

[ChrisArt]

I have a 1990 Nissan 300zx N/A. I have recently encountered some issues that I am at a loss for. I changed the oil the other day, doing every step as I have done in the past with other cars, exactly as I am supposed to do it.. The next day is a little cold(55F) and I let the car idle for about 2 minutes to warm up, only to notice that the car is idling oddly. It would stay around 1200 RPM's and then jump to around 1500 RPM's, but then go back down and repeat the idle process for the entirety of sitting there, it would constantly just go up and down. Once I hit the throttle the car accelerates, but very choppy, it would putter a little bit and not really go that quickly, I would have to shift all the way to 3rd just to get the car to 40+ mph. I would go full throttle and it would act as if it were trying to launch from 5th gear, except the RPM's would go down and I would not accelerate. At the same time the Anti-Lock light would be on. Now I have parked the car and shut it off, but now the car wont start. I turn the key and it gives power, but wont turn over, just a mechanical clicking sound, almost like the starter is bad. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
Additional Information:
-200k miles
-5 speed manual
-N/A
-Stock(no mods)
-A/C does not work, might be compressor, it blows fuses

[ThisIsSparTTa]

Sounds like your alternator is dead which has subsequently killed your battery. Alternator in the process of dying will cause random lights to come on when they shouldn't.

[ChrisArt]

What about the issues with the acceleration? I can post a link to a video later on if needed.

[ThisIsSparTTa]

If the ECU isn't getting the correct voltage, it can't control things properly. Common issue as the alternator dies and the battery is draining out.

[ChrisArt]

I hadn't even though if that. well then. Is there any way I can test to make sure. that the alternator is s***? I.e. multimeter tests?

[ThisIsSparTTa]

First things first, put a multimeter across the battery terminals and measure the voltage with the car off, I bet its very low. It should be near 12V. If battery voltage is low, this would line up with your bad alternator behavior.

I don't think there's a lot you can do to test the alternator yourself. Best thing would be to remove it, and take it to the auto store for them to test. Prior to that, if you can find a car battery charger, you should be able to charge your battery and start your car. It should run again for a bit until the battery drains again. The battery alone can't support the car running for very long.

You can try reading through some results, but don't do what the WikiHow top article suggests, that is bad news bears. https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=c ... nator+test

[ChrisArt]

I get on that this weekend then, I'll let the car sit till.. It only seams to do it in the morning... I was at work and got in my car(I drove it to work) and it started up like normal. It really is beginning to agrevate me. I do apprecieate the input though.

[RubyRed300ZX]

You must have an intermittent short between the alternator and the battery. If it fixed itself overnight, pretty much has to be a short in the wiring, corrosion on a connector, loose connector, loose ground, bad fuseable link .... use a multimeter to check for continuity throughout.