1990 300zx lots o problems help please!!!!

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jserafin
Posts: 11
Joined: Thu Apr 03, 2008 8:11 am

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So to start the story off i found a 1990 300zx that had a motor swap done to it with another tt vg motor with around 60k miles or so on it (body only had about 90k and got it for 6g's so i couldn't pass it up, i like to think that i saved it from certain destruction). I knew it had problems with i first bought it and the guy told me what he knew was wrong with it bt it wasn't nearly what i thought it would be. I have dumped around 2g's into it cause of tires, power steering pump and rack and pinion assembly, new bov's, basic maintenance, and a new clutch.

We kept running into a problem with the car dieing and we knew the boost controller had been installed imporperly, we switched everything up and disconnected the BC for now. The JWT twin pop charger has only the driver side connection to the MAF, and someone said that it only running off of readings from one of the sides could be a problem, that and rushing air coming through the front and possibly tricking the MAF while the car is moving (even if the throttle bodies are closed).We did a plenum swap because the people had used silicone instead of o rings in all kinda of places, didn't have one of the side EGR valves even bolted in, and were trying to run the turbos at full boost with nitrous, needless to say i saved the car. It seems to be running strong now after a plenum swap and running around 15 psi (z1 motorsports tuned ecu with 555cc injectors and jwt twin pop charger with full HKS hi power exhaust) but i keep running into problems.

My speedometer just went out and i don't know whether to switch the Vehicle speed sensor or to get a whole new gauge cluster, or both.

Also the car dies after it warms up and i'm driving, example, i will be cruising along around 45 mph (presumably considering i don't have a speedo at the moment either) and when i push the cluth in the rps drop to around 1k then fall lower and then the car dies pretty much, i can pop the clutch but then i have to keep the car alive while i have the clutch in (a lot o heel-toe action) i'm not sure exactly whats causeing this, i replaced the TPS but i'm sure that has to be professionally set at a certain point, the timing was originally set to 0 Degrees so we reset that to 15 degrees. Also i put in a STILLEN HICAS eliminator, i broke the head off of one of the banjo bolts, i got another one and put a little bit of sealant so that it wouldn't leak like it did the first time, there are no leaks now BUT (of course right) after a few minutes of just daily driving the small HICAS light comes on and i can feel my power steering in the car go down to about 50% or so, it's their but it is harder to turn, if i shut the car off and turn it back on then pop the clutch while i'm still moving the light goes off and i have full power steering back, but the entire process just repeats itself.

If anybody has any insight on what i should do to troubleshoot this i would very much appreciate it, and also i'm looking for some exterior parts for the car, jdm sort of things (tail lights front and rear bumpers) and also where to purchase the white face guages and an HID kit for the lights.

I have always noticed the car to feel like it's wigglying a bit when i'm in a turn, kind of an uneasy feeling what would anybody suggest to increase the rigidty and stiffness to the car, make it feel like 1 piece instead of 3 when i'm going through a hard turn. It's a lot of information in here and if anyone on this forum knows anything about whatever part of it i said i would greatly appreciate some help.

My name is Jeff Phipps, i live in the Columbus/Hilliard area of Ohio. If some of the solutions to any of these would be easier to be talked through on the phone pm me.
Modified by jserafin at 12:07 AM 4/5/2008


300zxEx2
Posts: 3
Joined: Fri Dec 07, 2007 10:17 am
Car: 300zx

Post

well im not sure but some one with alot of experiene in Zs told me that you need to change the hole wiring kit when you replace the motor because when you swap the motor the wiring cracks.. in between and the currents goes all over so i recommend to to change the hole wiring..


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