1990 240sx temp gauge stuck on dead cold, read the coolant procedures - help

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lbrowne
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1990 240sx.

I've read all the coolant drain and flushing techniques and searched the archives and I have a question. Bear in mind that it is cold out now, we have some snow and I'll be doing this in these conditions. I don't have much time for daylight after work or before really frigid temps start slowing my progess - I use this car everyday. I've collected excerpts from old posts on this in a txt file but I had little luck last night.

I have air in my system. My temp gauge does not move off of the coldest setting even after a 20 minute highway drive to work. Stupid me thought it was a great idea to add what coolant I had left in the garage to the rad and to the reserviour and now I'm paying the price (although it wasn't very much). Last night I tried running the car with the cap open, and the bleeder screw, racing the engine, adding some more coolant, squeezing hoses - but no luck. I know I have air in the system still because I can see the frothy bubbles in the rad at times.

The tstat is not quite a year old.

I'm going to buy some new coolant and some distilled water tonight in an attempt to get this back to normal. I'd rather not have to try and pull the block's drain plug. I was going to open the rad drain plug and then later the large lower coolant hose. I know this can be done and I know someone on here has done it before I just need a few steps to get through this. I know you have to unscrew the bleeder plug to ensure steady fluid comes out with no bubbles and to have the front of the car higher than the rear.(can you leave the bolt in slightly? just backed off quite a bit?)

Regardless of gloves my hands are going to be numb tonight so I'm looking for an effective way to get this done without being too intrusive.

Thanks in advance guys.

lbrowne


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positron1
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Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2005 12:29 am
Car: Project: 1993 Nissan 240SX Coupe SR
Daily: 2010 Honda Civic Coupe
Location: Starkville, MS.

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Does the needle move at all, maybe your temp gauge sender on the block has come loose.
Modified by positronone at 12:45 PM 11/21/2007

lbrowne
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My needle works, but right now it doesn't move. The car blow cold air. Its air in the system for sure.

hoang
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are you sure there is air in the system? i thought air in the system would cause the car to over heat...i have a similar problem, car takes forever to warm up, as a sorta quick fix i put some cardboard infront of the radiator, it warms up somewhat quicker but still the heat doesnt blow very hot.

lbrowne
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Picked up a new waterpump, and a new t-stat (went with a 195).

The waterpump is getting to the point of needing replacement so do it all at once I guess.

lbrowne
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Everything done. New waterpump, 195 t-stat and I can fry eggs on my dash at full heat.

The old t-stat worked, so it had to be air int he system along with a bad waterpump I guess. My 170 t-stat never dished out heat like this. Thank God I put this in considsering how cold it gets here during the winter months. Cheers fellas.

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positron1
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Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2005 12:29 am
Car: Project: 1993 Nissan 240SX Coupe SR
Daily: 2010 Honda Civic Coupe
Location: Starkville, MS.

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Nice job!


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