1990 240sx KA24E No Start.

[wrxratd]

Purchased this car a few days ago for 100 bucks since it was on it's way to a salvage yard. I knew the car would not run, but i've since checked everything i can think of and i need some help. I appologize if this is in the wrong section, but i did make an educated guess at putting it in here.

Things i've checked pulled out 9 quarts of milky brown, fuel smelling sludge and added in 4 qts fresh 10w30. This oil leads me to believe that the cylinders are completely washed down and fairly dry leading to the lower compression numbers belowspark - looks like good spark.Fuel pressure - spikes to 47psi at Key On then settles to 42 after a few seconds. according to mac tools fuel pressure testing kit.noid - have noid at #2 cylinder, didnt' bother checking the other 3compression - dry compression suspected complete cylinder washdown as follows... 1: 124 2: 120 3: 127 4: 120 according to mac tools digital compression tester

Now one thing i've noticed, i get no check engine light with KOEO like i should which says either the bulb is burnt out or the ECU is down, but i'm getting a noid signal, so i'm guessing it's not a bad ECU. I've got a battery charger on it so i know i've got good voltage and amperage, it's spinning quite fast with the starter and at this point, i don't really know where to go next.

If anybody has any thoughts on what else to check, or any common problems with a no start of this nature, please chime in. I'm at my whits end. I don't regret my purchase, but i'm realy getting frustrated!!!

[carmo]

With compression numbers like that and also having spark and an injector pulse, the thing has got to run. You may have a stuck open injector/ injectors. If the cam or crank sensor was bad, you wouldn't have spark. Milky oil would cause me to lean toward a blown head gasket or cracked head, but the compression is okay. You may try a fresh set of spark plugs. Take the old ones out and crank the motor over a few times to evacuate the cylinders. Also while you have the plugs out, cut the fuel pump on and off with the key a few times and see if any fluid (gas) builds up in any of the cylinders. I'm guessing it won't because the fuel pressure holds. Drizzle a little bit of oil in each cylinder. This should boost compression. You may want to have a vacuum line disconnected and a can of carb. cleaner or starting fluid handy. While cranking, spray some of the starting fluid into the intake via the vacuum line. If you have bad gas (hehe bad gas) the car should still run on the starting fluid. You could also disconnect the fuel supply line, stick it in a clear bottle and turn on the fuel pump, to get a fuel sample. If you pour a little bit on the ground and light in on fire, when the flame goes out, diesel will leave an oily residue. Good luck and keep us posted.....

[wrxratd]

I tried the oil squirting trick but forgot to say i did oops!!! The plugs are brand new (replaced those, forgot to say again ) I'm gonna go try the carb/choke cleaner trick right now. Also gonna get a fuel sample. Thanks for the ideas.

This place is quite a bit friendlier and far more helpful than than the standard nasioc flaming i'm used to!!!

[wrxratd]

ok, update. Will fire if i spray in carb/choke cleaner WHILE THE FUEL PUMP FUSE IS OUT as soon as i put the fuel pump fuse in, the car will fire once and then nothing. Then, remove fuel pump fuse, crank a bit fires and stumbles and dies. What do these cars act like when you fill them with e-85?

[carmo]

Not sure about e-85. I think you have nailed at least one of your problems if not all. Try leaving the fuel pump fuse in and then start the car with the fluid. Maybe if you can get the cylinders hot enough the thing will run on its own. So I guess bad gas or an open injector/s. keep us posted

[wrxratd]

Well, the saga continues. Drained all the old fuel out and put in some fresh, no difference. Swapped out all the injectors with a used set, no change. I had some help today, and when i get it stumble running without the fuel pump fuse, i had my friend put the fuse in, and it kills it INSTANTLY, did this several times in a row. Which leads me to believe it's overfueling. But with fuel pressure remaining constant... AAARRRGGGHHHHHH. So frustrating. Also put the first fuel rail on and laid it on the valve cover. All injectors firing fine, none seem more saturated than the others.

And one more thing. (yes, it's getting drawn out, but i keep forgetting to send the reply ) Subaru's have tumble generator delete valves to create swirl on cold start. Do the ka's have the same type of system? If they do, could they ever get stuck shut?

At this point, it's hard to not think about tapping into some 401k and just doing an rb or sr swap... Even though i've heard these (ka24) are pretty decent engines.

[robertwb70]

Yes KAs have swirl control valves, the actuator is on the back of the intake you could operate it manually to see if it's stuck.

[wrxratd]

Cool. Thanks. I'll have to give that a shot tonight after work.

[wrxratd]

Ok, so i can't seem to find anything that looks like what i'm thinking of. All i can see on the back side of the intake is the EGR valve. Then there's something towards the back on the engine side of the intake, but i can't see that actuating any kind of butterfly system in the intake. More ideas please!!! I'm desperate!