1990 240 s13 Clutch probs?
1990 240 s13 Clutch probs?
I was driving my 1990 240 s13 to and from work today , when noticing that the clutch was not completely disengaging. So I filled the cylinder with brake fluid to the appropriate level and attempted to bleed the lines. While bleeding them I noticed that the dust cover/boot on the clutch operating cylinder was worn, and that the little pin that the lever comes in contact with had A LOT OF PLAY in it. Next thing I know the clutch pedal goes completely to the floor, and will not go back up on it's own? I tried bleeding it some more, but no response. I can pull the clutch back up to normal position, but the clutch itself seems not to want ot disengage. So when I start it I can't get it out of neutral. Any Suggestions? Please? Sorry for the long explanation.
You more than likely just blew either your Master Clutch cylinder or your Slave Clutch cylinder. The slave is easy fix, esp if u can already bleed the system. It is located on the transmission and actually pushes the shifter fork in. The master is a little bit harder. It requires disconnecting it from your clutch pedal and then the firewall. Check both for leaks. In the mean time, all i can suggest is to have a friend manually push the shifter fork in so that you can take it out of gear (in case u might need to push it out of the garage or something, i dunno :P ).
Good luck!
Good luck!
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NISMO24096
- Posts: 222
- Joined: Wed Sep 25, 2002 12:37 pm
hey i kinda went through the same problem or so i thought i replaced both master and slave cylinders in my 240, and bleeding it out is a real pain, make sure you have someone there to pump up the clutch peddle and hold it to the floor so you can crack the pruge the air out of it, and remeber there are two places you have to purge one is futher up the line from the slave cylinder in what looks like a disturbution block of some sort anyways air seems to get traped at this point so dont forget to bleed it as well, hope this helps ya....
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NISMO24096
- Posts: 222
- Joined: Wed Sep 25, 2002 12:37 pm
ps hope its something as simple as just the slave and master cylinders thats wrong with your car and not like mine which i seem to have blew one or more of the springs out of the clutch disk. apperantly it has lodged itself in the pressure plate causeing it not to release the clutch. keep us informed of your progress...
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midnightshadow
- Posts: 61
- Joined: Thu Aug 29, 2002 2:41 pm
- Car: cars, snowboarding, mt biking
i also had a similair situation with my clutch. thought i blew out the slave cylinder. turns out that the sleeve that the clutch fork presses on had one of the teeth break half off which caused the sleeve to rotate 90 degrees. so the fork was actually riding on the thin part of the sleeve. i was lucky enough to figure it out before there was nothing left to push on. easiest way to check if this is ur problem. the fork will probably be coming out of the transmission at an angle. it will be closer to one egde of the hole. downside to this problem is u have to pull the transmission to fix it. the sleeve is cheap though. like 30 CDN from the dealer. hope this helps.
update
NISMO24096 wrote:ps hope its something as simple as just the slave and master cylinders thats wrong with your car and not like mine which i seem to have blew one or more of the springs out of the clutch disk. apperantly it has lodged itself in the pressure plate causeing it not to release the clutch. keep us informed of your progress...
Ok well I tried bleeding them again, at both bleeder points, no success. I had to fill the reservoir a few times, and the pedal still doesnt have any resistance or does it want to come back up from the floor on its own. I took off the slave cylinder/operating cylinder and there is no pressure against the push rod, therefore there is nothing to come in contact with the fork? I am stumped, I also hand "pumped"/ pushed the push rod a few times and sent brake/clutch fluid back up through the lines and seeping out of the master cylinder reservoir, all over under the hood, before I could figure out what a mess I was causing....
:oface ...So I am still perplexed, any more suggestions would be greatly appreciated....
Re: 1990 240 s13 Clutch probs?
bomber240 wrote:I was driving my 1990 240 s13 to and from work today , when noticing that the clutch was not completely disengaging. So I filled the cylinder with brake fluid to the appropriate level and attempted to bleed the lines. While bleeding them I noticed that the dust cover/boot on the clutch operating cylinder was worn, and that the little pin that the lever comes in contact with had A LOT OF PLAY in it. Next thing I know the clutch pedal goes completely to the floor, and will not go back up on it's own? I tried bleeding it some more, but no response. I can pull the clutch back up to normal position, but the clutch itself seems not to want ot disengage. So when I start it I can't get it out of neutral. Any Suggestions? Please? Sorry for the long explanation.
Ok I am going to buy a new Slave cylinder and replace that, they only run for 16$ or so, so I will try that before any more costly repairs... Also does anyone know, When I had manually pumped the puch rod at the slave cylinder before it pushed fluid back up through the lines to the reservoir, filling the (clean fluid reservoir" with a grey YUCKY fluid color? Is this just old fluid being puched back up from the lines? Any other suggestions for me? Do I need to fully drain the fluid before installing the new slave cylinder or anything?
Also how do I get the "Driving Mom's Car off from under my name at the left?Draining all your fluid and changing it never hurts, yes it is old dirty fuild pushing back up to your master cylinder. BTW brake fluid eats paint, keep it away from your body panels.
Aside from the actual clutch disc and pressure plate and shift fork, the only thing left of your clutch system is your master and slave cylinders. One of these has to be leaking. Your slave may be OK and your master shot, or vice versa. When you bleed them, check to see if fluid is coming from either (look under the master to see if its leaking down the firewall). Also look inside the footwell to see if its leaking out the backside.
As for Driving Mom's car, just keep posting, it will change. Its sorta like your status here, being 'new' to the forum, you are still in the early stages. It will get better the more you post.
Aside from the actual clutch disc and pressure plate and shift fork, the only thing left of your clutch system is your master and slave cylinders. One of these has to be leaking. Your slave may be OK and your master shot, or vice versa. When you bleed them, check to see if fluid is coming from either (look under the master to see if its leaking down the firewall). Also look inside the footwell to see if its leaking out the backside.
As for Driving Mom's car, just keep posting, it will change. Its sorta like your status here, being 'new' to the forum, you are still in the early stages. It will get better the more you post.
Reply
Ok thanks for the info... The Slave doesn't appear to be leaking, and it's still hard to tell with the Master cylinder...Since I've al;ready made such a mess. I have wiped it down, and will let it sit tonight.. trying to get a fresh start on it tomorrow after work.. Thanks for all the Great Info... Again:)
UPDATE!!!
OK, My Clutch Slave cylinder finally came in today from Oreilly's, only 15$, I removed old, installed new, drained and refilled fluid, and blead the lines of air, and..... WHAMO the clutch worked, I knew right away after seeing the new slave cylinder that the old one was bad. So that is good news, a total fix for around 20$...Ok so I then took a Victory lap around the block and decided to go ahead and push my luck by trying to fix the leaky fuel injector that had been giving me problems. Something bad happened...See my Leaky Fuel injector post to read what happened to me with this. THanks to all for the AWESOME INFO and support. 