1989 240sx Gas in oil

[slayer6o6]

I have a bad gas in oil problem. I have an 89 240sx ka24e. I changed my oil on a Friday, and that same day i heard a tick/knock coming from my head, which is brand new, less than three months old (ported and polished). And so I went to change the oil again and it was so black and reeked of gas so bad that I immedietly changed it again, and now it sits. I did a commpression test, Cylinder 1-165psi; Cylinder 2-160psi; Cylinder 3-165psi; Cylinder 4-165psi. I have high compression pistons to explain the high readings. In the last year I have changed my fuel injectors out with a set of re-mans', and in the last 3 months I installed a eprom chip. I kinda think that a fuel injector is stuck wide open and/or the eprom is bad and causing this problem. I am going to get the injectors tested today with a noid light. Any help would be great guys.

Ryan

[tyrannix]

when the engine was assembled, were the rings staggered per the FSM? (its a stretch with those comp numbers, but thats my first suspect with fuel in the oil)

another possibility is if your head was assembled incorrectly. might be a stretch with those numbers, but possible

CJ

[slayer6o6]

I have a 89 sohc and have found at least 1/2 a qt of gas in the oil pan of my car after driving about 150 mi. I have done a compression test and passed, and suspect an injector that is staying on. What is a good way to test this short of buying a noid light, and any more help would be appreicated.

[180fan]

No need for multiple threads on the same board. Merged.

[ricebike]

I have a 89 sohc and have found at least 1/2 a qt of gas in the oil pan of my car after driving about 150 mi. I have done a compression test and passed, and suspect an injector that is staying on. What is a good way to test this short of buying a noid light, and any more help would be appreicated.

how about depressurizing the fuel system, remove the fuel rail w/ the injectors attached to the rail... replace that fuel pump fuse, & turn key back to on/no start engine... have a towel underneath the injectors, just in case u see a mechanically leaking injector...

other than an ohm resistance test on the unplugged injector, you'll haveta borrow a noid light to make sure the ecu-end is up to par

[UK-SRi]

Rings rotate at about 0.1% of engine RPM's, no need to stagger them.

It will be the injectors or an injector o-ring not lubed up enough when it was assembled.

Mike

[ricebike]

oh, & i assumed u already check for trouble codes?

if coolant temp sensor or o2 sensor isn't connected or being read by the ecu, it'll still be in "open-loop" mode... richie rich all the time.

PS: who's the manufacturer of that "eprom" chip?

[slayer6o6]

The name of the programmer/seller is Hirata Miyamoto. He is selling them on ebay-did I screw up getting my eprom there? He claims to be a Nissan Engineer and the eprom seems to be working ok. I soldered it in myself, no real problems there, and everything seemed to be running fine up until now.

I replaced the coolant temp sensor yesterday and I am going to have the time to see if that was the problem today-oh yeah, the old temp sensor had corroded terminals and the harness plug was in pretty bad shape too. Is there a place where I can get a new plug to splice into the old wiring? I thought that I saw somewhere that I could, just not sure. I am also going to check my ecm codes for any issues it might have found and test the fuel injectors for a sticky one.

You guys have been great, and I know that this problem, having read most if not all of the other forums on this and other problems, could have been many things. I also didn't mean to repost this issue...

Also could anyone tell me where to find a good how to on shimming hydraulic lifters? Since I have one that is making one hell of a noise now, I want to try that before disassembling the head again to remedy this problem.

Thanx again all!

Ryan

[UK-SRi]

If you have just one noisy one it might need bleeding as the nissan design is not self bleeding.It involves carefully putting it upside down in oil and very carefully using something to depress the ball without damaging the seal.

Mike

[ricebike]

lookie lookie, i found the FAQ for hydraulic lifters of the SOHC KA24E engines! the DOHC engines had solid lifters, which will require reshimming if worn...

now, there's a way to check for the lifter while the VC is off: i've seen it posted here somewheres..... but i'm in a typing-kinda mood:

Quote » 1) Push hydraulic valve lifter forcefully w/ your finger.* Be sure to check it w/ rocker arm in its free position.2) If valve lifter moves more than 1 mm (0.04"), air may be inside of it.3) Bleed air off by running engine @ 1,ooo rpm under no-load for 20 minutes.4) If hydraulic valve lifters are still noicy, replace them & bleed air off again in the same manner as in step 3). [/quote]there are also cautions about not mixing them up when u remove the hydraulic valve lifter/rocker arm assemblies as well as not laying them on it's side--> keep them upright or if u do lay it on it's side, do it in a bath of engine oil... I hope u did that when u dissasembled the top end...

as for that ebay thing <shrugs> it will may be a factor in your problem. let us know about the fuel injector tests/trouble code scan/ repair of your cts plug...

[slayer6o6]

Well, I must say that the CTS helped the most, if not solving the problem. I read the trouble codes and I got back '21'-Ignition Signal missing on primary coil. And I do have a leaky injector-the guy that I had put my head on must have f***ed that up, as it was the O-ring in the fuel rail, cylinder 1. I will have to drive the car some more to see if the gas has completly stopped pouring into the oil.

Thanks to all of you again! Your help was priceless, and I'm sure that I will hear from you all soon.

Ryan

P.S. Where is a good source to get true, no BS, genuine eproms? I have heard of Jim Wolf......