1989 240sx : cluster lights on/battery draining

[crookedcop7]

I am having a problem with my dash warning lights staying on after I take out my key and I trie disconnecting every thing i can imagine....every plug from the engine harness and every relay in the 2 fuse/relay boxes in the engine bay. I even disconnected the dash plug going to the ecu that we usually wire up for the SR swap.

It seems to keep me able to turn the turn signals on and stuff. I even tried making the lights stay on .....then disconnecting the ignition key cylinder harness (6 pin plug) and the lights remain on. I even took of the connection to the alternator (power, ground, 2 wire plug) and it still remains a problem

HOWEVER. When I took out the junction box in the driver kick pannel and i Turned it around and took out the blue little 4 pin relay. It made the problem go away......but I dont want to resolve it like this. I want to get down to the problem and solve this correctly. I even tried taking out the diode pack from behind the radio......I am soo stumped and I know it has something to do with the circuit involving the bulb check relay..........I tried testing the relays by adding power and ground on each one to posts 1 and 2, and they click and make continuity......I am soo stumped . Also I found out that at the "bulb check relay" the brown and the red/black wire when the key is on holding 12volts with the key is off its holding 4.5volts theres a bigger blue relay near the "bulb check relay" that when you tap it the lights turn off please help adam

[crookedcop7]

btw its a 89 240sx w/ a sr20det (early black top)

[NISTECH]

. Also I found out that at the "bulb check relay" the brown and the red/black wire when the key is on holding 12volts with the key is off its holding 4.5volts theres a bigger blue relay near the "bulb check relay" that when you tap it the lights turn off please help adam

I think you found your problem. swap that realy with one of the same type in the relay box under the hood. If your problem is gone then you found it.

[crookedcop7]

tried that but it seems that the 4.5 volts are able to keep the circuit closed till you tap it plus I checked the relay by hooking up a constant to the battery than disconnecting the ground you keep the relay click I also have another person with the same problem

[crookedcop7]

btw the lights in the cluster that is the parking brake there is not power to the radio when the key is off no power to climate control when key is off

[crookedcop7]

cluster light that stays on is the parking brake there is no power to the radio/climate control when the key is off tried 2 other relay same problem

[crookedcop7]

by the way the blinkers still work after the key is off to if I dissconnect the battery to reset then the blinkers will stop

[crookedcop7]

taking out the bulb check relay fixs the problem no more draining of the battery and the clutster lights work in order

but the question is where is the 4.5 volts coming from

[NISTECH]

So the only light that is on in your cluster after the key is shut off is your "brake" light? No other cluster lights are on when the failure occurs.

[crookedcop7]

yes also the blinkers work and at the battery its draining 1.5 amps

[crookedcop7]

also one quick question I just got I new pair of rims 15X7.5 +10offset in the front the lugnut is just catching the last thread of the nut (stock nuts) is this safe

[NISTECH]

if the stud goes almost all the way through the nut yes your safe. If you are saying the nut bearly goes on the stud one thread then no you are not safe like that. You would have to replace all your studs with longer studs.

[crookedcop7]

yes its about 99 if not 100% on the stud

[My3rdBaby]

was there ever a solution to this problem? I now have the same issue and would like to know how to fix it...