1988 Service Manual?

Forum for the Xterra, Frontier and Hardbody, the smaller workhorses of the Nissan lineup!
DmOcRsI
Posts: 1
Joined: Sat May 05, 2018 2:54 pm
Car: 1988 Nissan D21 (Auto)

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So I checked the Service Manuals section and started downloading the service manual because it was exactly what I needed for my 88' D21... however when I started looking closer it didn't mention anything about a Z24i, it only had the KA24E. I looked closer at the Index and the sections that I needed and it's actually from a 1994?

With that being said... does anyone have the 1988 Nissan D21 factory service manual available? Please advise! Thank you!

I just got this 1988 D21 and it's a great little truck but I need to keep it California emissions legal and the ECU is telling me there's a problem with the EGR... so far I am finding that a lot of these parts are literally no longer being made and I need to get creative; but that service manual would REALLY help me out.


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mdmellott
Posts: 1147
Joined: Mon Sep 02, 2019 3:32 pm
Car: '13 Kia Soul+ 2.0L AT
'02 Pathfinder SE 3.5L AT P/4WD
Location: SF Bay Area, CA

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The '88 manual is a hard one to find as a download. I found the actual '89 that covers your Z24i engine. It might be close enough. Here it is. >>> https://carmanualsclub.com/nissan-d21-s ... ir-manual/

xnisstech
Posts: 12
Joined: Wed Sep 02, 2020 2:37 pm
Car: 1987 Nissan D21
2011 Infiniti G25
2014 Nissan Rogue Select

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Do you need something specific or just want the whole manual? I have my 1987 manual but its not going anywhere. Check all the vacuum hoses for correct routing and splits. Look at the rubber tube at the bottom of the BPT valve, they burn through and the EGR valve wont open anymore and you will get a DTC. If you have to replace it get the real factory tube, its high temp silicon. With your finger, reach under the EGR valve and lift up on the valve while the engine is idling, it should run rough or stall. If not the passage is clogged.

elvisboy77
Posts: 14
Joined: Sun Oct 18, 2020 3:36 pm
Car: 1987 Nissan Hardbody V6

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I would love to find a source for the 1987 manual, anyone know where I can find it? I got a free download version of a maybe 1989? But the wiring does not match. Trying to fix a no spark problem, hard to do without an accurate wiring diagram. Thanks for any hints.

xnisstech
Posts: 12
Joined: Wed Sep 02, 2020 2:37 pm
Car: 1987 Nissan D21
2011 Infiniti G25
2014 Nissan Rogue Select

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No spark? Could be a lot of things and I hate guessing, but those distributor/cam position sensors are a high failure component. Take the cap off and see if the shutter wheel plate is loose, or if oil has gotten up into it. There is a screw under the rotor that can come loose. This can damage the plate and LED assembly. Even if all that looks OK, they can fail. Beyond that you will need a diagram and do some checks for power and continuity.

elvisboy77
Posts: 14
Joined: Sun Oct 18, 2020 3:36 pm
Car: 1987 Nissan Hardbody V6

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Thanks for your response. I went ahead and ordered a new distributor, at $120 it wasn't much more than the sensor.

Any ideas about a year specific manual??

xnisstech
Posts: 12
Joined: Wed Sep 02, 2020 2:37 pm
Car: 1987 Nissan D21
2011 Infiniti G25
2014 Nissan Rogue Select

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Not really, eBay? Before you pull out the old distributor, make careful note of where the rotor is pointing in relation to the distributor body and be sure the new one is pointing in the exact same place.

elvisboy77
Posts: 14
Joined: Sun Oct 18, 2020 3:36 pm
Car: 1987 Nissan Hardbody V6

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I need to search again but yeah, nothing. Surprised me, too. I did get scammed by chiltondiy.com, claimed to be specific but was not, ugh.

And, yes, in my youth (I'm 61) I made that mistake on my 1963 Plymouth. I'll never forget but thank you for mentioning that.

xnisstech
Posts: 12
Joined: Wed Sep 02, 2020 2:37 pm
Car: 1987 Nissan D21
2011 Infiniti G25
2014 Nissan Rogue Select

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Have you looked at the self-diagnosis results in the PCM? Distributor (crank angle sensor) code 11 faults may show up there and be more of an indication that you are on the right track.
With the key on there should be power on the black/white wire at the distributor connector, and ground at the solid black wire diagonally across from it in the same connector. Hope this helps.

elvisboy77
Posts: 14
Joined: Sun Oct 18, 2020 3:36 pm
Car: 1987 Nissan Hardbody V6

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Thanks for the response. We got a code of "21" or no ignition signal. And yes, I can double check but we did get power and ground on the 4 pole connector. The other two poles on that plug looked like coil pulse and I was assuming crank angle sensor??? Like I said, that was based on I think an 88 or 89 diagram- close but not exact.

We have replaced the distributor cap, rotor, coil and capacitor/resistor (the thing that plugs into the 4 pole plug). I will let you know if the distributor (actually the crank angle sensor) does the trick, it shows up Thursday. I am hoping so, otherwise it is sounding like the ECM or else a wiring issue, ugh I would hate that.

I will post here after we try it, let me know if I am missing something and many thanks for your help, your expertise is much appreciated!

xnisstech
Posts: 12
Joined: Wed Sep 02, 2020 2:37 pm
Car: 1987 Nissan D21
2011 Infiniti G25
2014 Nissan Rogue Select

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Yes, the other 2 wires transmit the 1-degree and 120-degree signals to the PCM. There should be a signal there you could see with a scope or logic probe. I think you are on the right track.

elvisboy77
Posts: 14
Joined: Sun Oct 18, 2020 3:36 pm
Car: 1987 Nissan Hardbody V6

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Yes, with your help! Should know soon.

elvisboy77
Posts: 14
Joined: Sun Oct 18, 2020 3:36 pm
Car: 1987 Nissan Hardbody V6

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Sooooo......I replaced (or my son in law did, I had to work) the distributor. Other than the coil pointing out the opposite side from the old one, it went in fine. BUT NO STARTING!

I got a Clymer's manual, and it says if I have a "Code 21" I have to take it to the dealer!!!! Ugh.

I am going over Sunday to check for spark and make sure we still have 12 V and ground. Other than that, any ideas what I can do? Do I really need to take it to the dealer? If I do will they even have the stuff to work on it?

So bummed out. Thanks for any advice you can offer. I am open to other suggestions!

elvisboy77
Posts: 14
Joined: Sun Oct 18, 2020 3:36 pm
Car: 1987 Nissan Hardbody V6

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Clarification: The coil terminal on the distributor cap pointed in the opposite direction. All the cylinder connections were same as before.

xnisstech
Posts: 12
Joined: Wed Sep 02, 2020 2:37 pm
Car: 1987 Nissan D21
2011 Infiniti G25
2014 Nissan Rogue Select

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Sorry to hear this. I had intended to suggest that you just plug in the new distributor, turn on the key and spin it to see if the coil now produced spark. Code 21 starts with confirming power at the distributor connector (which you have already checked) then looking for a pulse signal at terminal 5 (white wire) of the PCM 20 pin connector. A scope or logic probe will be able to see this pulse during cranking, with the connector plugged in. After that check it gets into a series of steps that confirm wiring continuity and the condition of the switching transistor in the coil.
Give me an email address and I will send some pictures of the manual inspection pages.

elvisboy77
Posts: 14
Joined: Sun Oct 18, 2020 3:36 pm
Car: 1987 Nissan Hardbody V6

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Hey, me too, I had high hopes! I appreciate your help.

If you could email me those pages it would be a huge help, the pin numbers on the ECM etc gotta be right...I tried checking continuity but using the 89 manual is just a wild guess really.


My email is john(dot)kramer77@gmail(dot)com replace (dot) with . of course......

I am going to get a logic probe today, it is cheap enough and will definitely help in diagnosis.

elvisboy77
Posts: 14
Joined: Sun Oct 18, 2020 3:36 pm
Car: 1987 Nissan Hardbody V6

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BTW- the "ignition control module" that we replaced got so hot the bottom split out of it so i am replacing it again, ugh. Hoping we just got a bad unit.

xnisstech
Posts: 12
Joined: Wed Sep 02, 2020 2:37 pm
Car: 1987 Nissan D21
2011 Infiniti G25
2014 Nissan Rogue Select

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Pages sent. The new module overheated and split or the old one?

elvisboy77
Posts: 14
Joined: Sun Oct 18, 2020 3:36 pm
Car: 1987 Nissan Hardbody V6

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The new one! Wondering if it is supposed to be mounted to the vehicle, as it has two bolt holes perhaps for heat sinking?

elvisboy77
Posts: 14
Joined: Sun Oct 18, 2020 3:36 pm
Car: 1987 Nissan Hardbody V6

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Thanks a million for sending those pics

xnisstech
Posts: 12
Joined: Wed Sep 02, 2020 2:37 pm
Car: 1987 Nissan D21
2011 Infiniti G25
2014 Nissan Rogue Select

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Ok. We are talking about the small unit right at the coil, correct?
It should be bolted down but doesn't rely on that for transferring any heat. At this point you really need to go through the SM procedure.
Did you mention whether you have tested the coil resistances at all?

elvisboy77
Posts: 14
Joined: Sun Oct 18, 2020 3:36 pm
Car: 1987 Nissan Hardbody V6

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Update: Coil resistance between each of the connector pins and the high voltage terminal is about 11-12k ohms.

I have a pulse at the white wire (as measured with a logic probe) on the four pole connector that mates with the ignition module when I turn over the engine. This is the wire that terminates at pin 5 on the ECU. I have 12 VDC at one other pin (black/white) and a good ground, 0.0 ohms at the black/pink pin.

It sure looks like it should work, I am not sure what I am missing. I am down to grounding the case of the ignition module to see if that does it. Everything else sure seems to be in order. Anyone know what I am missing? The last of the 4 wires, blue, not sure what that is supposed to read. It sort of looks like it should go to the 2.2k ballast resistor but I have not torn the harness apart to see for sure.

Ugh! Any advice is greatly appreciated

elvisboy77
Posts: 14
Joined: Sun Oct 18, 2020 3:36 pm
Car: 1987 Nissan Hardbody V6

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Update and GOOD NEWS!

We went to the junkyard and got a new mounting bracket for the coil and ignition module. We hooked everything up and THE TRUCK STARTED!!

So, the lesson is that the ignition module is grounded through its mounting bracket. if your bracket rusts in two, your module will overheat and fail (and the one you buy to replace it, too LOL) so you must ground it for it to work. Many thanks to Xnisstech for his advice, very grateful for that.


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