1987 z31 issue with LSD cv drive axel

[CerberuSlol]

So I just got my car back from my mechanic in east county, after arrel installed the custom gauges and new gauge cluster I went to visit my fam who moved to a new area up in the mountains. I'm going to take pics of these speed bumps but me and the homie went over these as best as we could it's already ruined a cv shaft/tire and suspension on a 2g eclipse. Now my suspension was pretty much shot out and I was saving to have it redone by arrel once I get the chance.

Anyway here's where the question comes into place after driving over that s*** twice pretty sure it f*** up my rear cv drive axel now I would just look for one for a 1987 300zx but after having the rb25 swap and putting in a LSD not sure where exactly to get some rear drive axels that will work with LSD. Also note my rims are 20 front 21 rear so I know that didn't help either. Wanted to know what you guys recommend. I'm almost 100% sure it's the cv drive while hitting turns braking into corners you will hear a loud clunking noise like u would with a fwd with a cv shaft issue.

[CerberuSlol]

pretty sure I found what I was looking for with autozone cv drive axels for 60 bucks each for my r200 diff

[gmac708]

You could jack up one rear wheel and check backlash by turning back and forth. Pulling out the CV axles on a Z is fairly easy compared to a front wheel drive car. Pulling them out and giving the outer CV a good visual is done by removal of end cover and sliding boot down axle. Inboard one would require boot clamp removal and sliding boot out of the way.

I would check the R200 diff mounts with a pry bar as well. They are rubber and sometimes come apart. Hope this helps. Sometimes it takes a little while to find these "clunking" noises. Good luck.

Gord

[CerberuSlol]

thanks alot qmac, pretty sure what happened is the boot broke/tore whatever and it started collecting alot of debree and s*** inside and ruined cv axel so hopefully autozone sends me the right part for my differential.

[evildky]

The CLSD has unequal length stubs, the CLSD and open diff models inboard stubs are equal length and interchangable between models and left to right. The turbo cars had a 4 bolt complanion flange at the wheel side, the n/a's got a 6 bolt flange. If you car has the 4 bolt companion flanges and an open or clsd then the standard turbo shaft will bolt right in. If you car has the 6 bolt companion flanges you'll need the n/a shafts. If your car has the VLSD then you need the 88 ss shaft which is hard to come by.

[CerberuSlol]

The CLSD has unequal length stubs, the CLSD and open diff models inboard stubs are equal length and interchangable between models and left to right. The turbo cars had a 4 bolt complanion flange at the wheel side, the n/a's got a 6 bolt flange. If you car has the 4 bolt companion flanges and an open or clsd then the standard turbo shaft will bolt right in. If you car has the 6 bolt companion flanges you'll need the n/a shafts. If your car has the VLSD then you need the 88 ss shaft which is hard to come by.

ah s*** pretty sure I have a vlsd but I hope not cause I know the ss everything is hard to comeby. tried finding springs and shocks from that awhile back nearly impossible.

[CerberuSlol]

The CLSD has unequal length stubs, the CLSD and open diff models inboard stubs are equal length and interchangable between models and left to right. The turbo cars had a 4 bolt complanion flange at the wheel side, the n/a's got a 6 bolt flange. If you car has the 4 bolt companion flanges and an open or clsd then the standard turbo shaft will bolt right in. If you car has the 6 bolt companion flanges you'll need the n/a shafts. If your car has the VLSD then you need the 88 ss shaft which is hard to come by.

thanks for your help I found out I have a 4 bolt flange after looking at it. one of the bushings is a little worn on the rear axel and the polyurethane boot is torn but the coilover/springs/shocks look in good shape but since someone stole some of my lugnuts my rim was lose and so was the spacer. So going to tighten lug nuts check the spacer,tighen it and then see how it is. Probably ride with the torn boot until I can replace the whole rear cv axel. So since autozone sells these parts do I just ask for a rear cv axel for an r200 lsd diff?

[CerberuSlol]

Yea replacing the nuts on the one rim and the nuts on both spacers fixed the noise and the wobble. I probably have to replace the rear cv axel though eventually since the boot is worn to s***, and the bushing is cracked and worn also. I am dropping down to 18 inch rims next week though finally getting rid of these 21 inch tsw zolders.

[evildky]

when a cv fails it makes a clicking noise, and you can get under there and grab the shaft and move it around. A torn boot can be replaced sepperately, it's a pretty easy but messy job.

[CerberuSlol]

when a cv fails it makes a clicking noise, and you can get under there and grab the shaft and move it around. A torn boot can be replaced sepperately, it's a pretty easy but messy job.

yea so far they seem ok and in good shape besides the bushing at the bottom and the boot but I thought if the boot got messed up then all that dirt gunk or whatever it picks up is getting in the cv shaft so u should just replace the whole thing or is that not ture.

[CerberuSlol]

Also doesn't help that pretty much most of the wheel studs and the lug nuts are stripped or f*** up in someway. Front wheel almost came off today.

[evildky]

The dirt and grit getting inside the cv can shorten the life of the cv joint. If the joint feels solid, pull the shaft, disassymble it, clean it, relube and install a new boot. It's not difficult or expensive if you do it yourself, and you can visually check the parts for signs of wear while you are at it.

[CerberuSlol]

Yea right now that's not as bad as my spacers being completely shot out, and a bolt somehow coming out of my front brake caliper

[evildky]

I'm not a fan of spacers, buy wheels in the correct bolt circle and offset and you have one less point of potential failure. And when working on brakes it payes to double check everything before it hits the ground, not something you want to risk.

[CerberuSlol]

I'm not a fan of spacers, buy wheels in the correct bolt circle and offset and you have one less point of potential failure. And when working on brakes it payes to double check everything before it hits the ground, not something you want to risk.

Yea I've learned from experience after taking off rim and calipers should probably replace the brake pads make sure the rotors aren't warped that sort of thing. We replaced the bolts that came out of the front calipers and got new lug nuts. When i get 18's I'ma put on new extended lugs and studs. The noise stopped suspension feels better and so does braking after tightening everything up. Now I just need to find 18 inch wheels probably was going for something like 18 by 9.5 front and then 18 by 10 or 10.5 rear want to try an even offset all around but stagger the wheels, or atleast have same lip all around not sure what would look better yet.

Since the trade for my tsw zolders and some cash fell through for some work vs ms's I may just get some rota p45r or xxr 526/962's or some varrstoens not really sure what to do yet. Just know I need to get rid of these 21 inch tsw's

[CerberuSlol]

or maybe the 531s when they come out in 18s