1987 300ZX won't start.

[AndrewKFM]

1987 300ZX non-turbo

Brand new battery in it. I checked each cell anyway, and they all indicated full strength. All electronics work, including lights. Volt meter read right about 12.

Car has been starting fine with no hesitation, now it will not crank. When I turn the key, all I get is the ignition "tick".

A jump did not get it started, and I had to push start it to get home.

I got it under my carport, jacked it up and looked at the starter. At first glance the starter solenoid wires look alright, and I had someone turn the key while I hit the starter with a rubber mallet.

Still nothing.

Thought I'd asked the various forums what to try next.

Thanks,
Andrew

[evildky]

have someone turn the key while you check for voltage at the starter signal wire (the small one) I'd suspect the clutch saftey swithc (located ont he clutch pedal) actually the rubber stopper that it contacts has been known to rot away and somply replacing that plug might be all you need

[AndrewKFM]

have someone turn the key while you check for voltage at the starter signal wire (the small one) I'd suspect the clutch saftey swithc (located ont he clutch pedal) actually the rubber stopper that it contacts has been known to rot away and somply replacing that plug might be all you need

Hmm. I'll try that. Would I be still be able to push start it if that was the problem?

[LunarShroud]

I would also check the resistance on the big wire from the battery to the starter. I've dealt with a couple cars that had that same problem and it was simply high resistance in that starter wire. It's not necessarily likely since the problem suddenly appeared, but better to be thorough.

[evildky]

yup, first things forst, get you head under the dash and check otu the rubber stopper

[AndrewKFM]

yup, first things forst, get you head under the dash and check otu the rubber stopper

Don't know much about the clutch safety switch. Got under the dash and took this photo. It should explain all I know.



EDIT AND UPDATE:

This is the safety switch that DISENGAGES when I press the clutch. Its gasket is worn away. There is a second safety switch a little further up the ENGAGES when I press the clutch. It too was gone. That was the problem. I reached up and pushed it down with my finger, and the engine turned on with the turn of the key.

I put some duct tape over the hole to keep it working until I find a replacement. Advance said I'd have to go to a scrapyard for it, but I guess I'll search the internet for awhile first.

Also, why the heck are there two safety switches? Is it really just a fail safe, or to make it idiot-proof? I can't even conceive of why I need two, especially since the bottom one isn't doing anything, and the car works alright. I'd like to replace both gaskets if there is a reason (I'm a little OCD about such things), but if it's pointless, I'll just completely remove the lower safety switch.

Any thoughts?

And thank you evildky SO much for pointing me in the right direction.

[AZ-ZBum]

Nissan dealer. Should be the same part number as the plug that's on the other hole of the pedal.

[AndrewKFM]

That plug is gone too (and I'm still not sure what purpose it served). I'll have to ask them if they can figure it out from the vin and my description.

[Perrenial Badass]

Huh, when mine rotted out it didn't even click like it was trying to start.

The rubber bumper on the brake pedal and the "engaged" bumper for the clutch pedal are for the cruise control, they tell the cruise if the brakes or clutch are being used (which kicks the cruise off).

[AndrewKFM]

Oh, holy crap, that makes so much sense. Thanks lol