I have to ask, I have a 1985 nissan pickup 2wd 5spd standard bed, and most of the things around the carburetor were taken out, I had bought it like that. I'm having a few problems with it, after I installed new brakes and brake lines, the few seconds after I brake and start going slow, because I'm missing the connection from the air-filter, I'm missing that one piece that connects it to the grill, the truck shuts off, as if it's not getting enough air or the right amount of air. The truck has been modified a little from what it used to be, but all the original parts are on there minus the parts around the carburetor, and the carburetor is original also.http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/8465/0000019k.jpg

http://img163.imageshack.us/sl...a.jpg

just the other day I was driving it and it takes a long time to warm up, but when finally it was drivable, I drove it not long and it cut off( it was sputtering a lot) Is there anything any of you guys could advise me on what to get?also the timing is off, in that when I bought it the rev was high, and everytime I shut if off just about, more often than not it refuses to shut off, among other things this truck makes a loud popping sound like a gun going off, and I'm not sure what to go about fixing it. any advise?

Modified by Spontaneousrican at 12:29 PM 12/21/2009

Modified by Spontaneousrican at 12:47 PM 12/21/2009

Modified by Spontaneousrican at 12:48 PM 12/21/2009
Modified by Spontaneousrican at 12:48 PM 12/21/2009

it sounds like you have some carb issues... but they don't really have anything to do with what is removed from what you are describing

it sounds to me like it may be one of the solenoids causing it to refuse to shut off and lose idle... mine did the same at one point and it was fixed by replacing the solenoid

if i were you... if its not out of your price range... snag a new carb all together and the problem will more than likely be solved assuming it doesn't turn out to be the fuel pump (which it definitely doesn't sound like)

this links to those picture's I'm sure if you looked at them you'll see what exactly was taken out. All those connections that were originally beside the carburetor are gone. because of this after looking at the pictures, is your answer still the same?

well... one thing i'm noticing is it doesn't look like the distributor vacuum advance is hooked up... the only way this would work is if the distributor is welded which i'm guessing its not because that's something only the more race setup engines have done

it should go from the baseplate of the carb over to the distributor as shown... replace this... and if it still doesn't run right then my first answer remains the best guess

hrmmm....my distributor advance is connected straight to the manifold vaccum ports below the carb....wonder if it makes a difference at all.

i assume you're talking about these ones???

my guess is that it doesn't matter... but those ones i circles were where my AB valve stuff was

yep, thats where it is...

You're right, it prob doesnt matter. I know some of the carb vaccum ports are a little funky with what can be hooked up to them....my advance is def. working, i left it unplugged one day and it lost the little bit of power that it had.

It connects to the bottom of the carb for the greatest vacuum. The further away from the carb the vacuum drops a little.