1983 280zx idles poorly after being restarted

[genewampler]

my 1983 280zx 110,000 miles starts and runs good.After I turn it off and restart it later ,it idles roughly so I have to race the engine to keep it going.I have recently replaced distributor.Any ideas as what may cause it to do this only after it is shut off. Thanks

[evildky]

so to clarify, the car starts and runs good when cold, once warmed up, you turn it off and idle quality if poor on warm restarts? I would suspect the CHTS, located in the base of the cylonder head on the passanger side I believe between #4 & 5 spark plugs

[sharjt]

That stands for "Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor". But how would that affect it? I forgot what exactly it did and was just wondering.

[evildky]

when the engine temp is cold it tells the computer to give you extra fuel, once it's warmed up the ecu cuts back on fuel, if it's not working or has damaged connectors it just keeps running rich to the point of fuel fowling the spark plugs

[cpt jack]

so to clarify, the car starts and runs good when cold, once warmed up, you turn it off and idle quality if poor on warm restarts? I would suspect the CHTS, located in the base of the cylonder head on the passanger side I believe between #4 & 5 spark plugs

that cant be it because if it was messed up the car would run like **** non stop trust me i know mine disconnected and it ran like crap till i found out what it was... first when u replaced the distributer did u take out the oil pump to line it up correctly? and another possiblility is that your injectors could be over heating and they have a tendency to cut out.. or biggest problem is vaccum leak but taht would be non stop not only after u start it...

[evildky]

that cant be it because if it was messed up the car would run like **** non stop trust me i know mine disconnected and it ran like crap till i found out what it was... first when u replaced the distributer did u take out the oil pump to line it up correctly? and another possiblility is that your injectors could be over heating and they have a tendency to cut out.. or biggest problem is vaccum leak but taht would be non stop not only after u start it...

yes it can depends on the ambient temp and if it's disconnector of just failing

and you have to pull the oil pump to get the oilpump driveshaft out of wack

[Spraguepsycho1]

These symptoms sound a lot like the problem I had when my fuel pressure regulator went bad on my '79 just over a month ago. When it was cold it ran ok, but once it warmed up it was running so rich it would cough and die once I let off the gas at low rpm's like in a traffic jam. I had to let it cool down for a half hour before it would start, then it ran great until I let off the gas to slow down again. If I kept it at 65-70mph it ran fine. I swapped the regulator with one off my parts car and haven't had any problems since. All I could figure out was I must have been getting too much pressure at low rpm causing it to flood out, due to the regulator not bleeding pressure back to the return line.