1980 280ZX Coupe Painting question.

A forum for owners of S30 and S130 Datsun Z's... 240Z, 260Z, 280Z and 280ZX!
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2Fast280ZX
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Car: 1980 Datsun 280ZX

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Now assuming I do all the sanding and painting my self.

Exactly how much and what will I need.

Right now I'm just doing the sanding and primering, I'm just curious as to what I'm looking at price wise?

- Thanks -


kelloggman
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Joined: Sun Apr 19, 2009 7:41 pm
Car: 73 240z

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depends on where you goi would call shops around youwhen im done with all that im going to doits gonna cost me about a grand it all depends on the quality of the paint too

i would call the shops around u

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phlebmaster
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Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm
Car: 1973 240z L26 4spd rip roar and ready to go!

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kelloggman wrote:depends on where you goi would call shops around youwhen im done with all that im going to doits gonna cost me about a grand it all depends on the quality of the paint too

i would call the shops around u
Ditto......

It all depends on alot of things. You need to start by deciding what your goal is first, then work out your plan.

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2Fast280ZX
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Car: 1980 Datsun 280ZX

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At this point I want to get a nice gloss black nothing fancy just something a little better looking than clearcoat peeling maroon lol

ravera
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Car: 1971 Datsun 240Z

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I cant tell you exact amounts, it depends on how thick you like it... But I will say this, Black is one of the hardest colors to get to look good. You have to have perfect prep and a super straight body because EVERYTHING will show on a black paintjob.

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evildky
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what primer are you useing? the paint you use needs tobe compatible wiht th eprimer you use, urethanes are pretty easy to work with

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2Fast280ZX
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Car: 1980 Datsun 280ZX

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The body on this car is perfect, the paint is just faded.

What are some easy colors?

This is going to be my first time painting a vehicle, so in no way is it going to be perfect. Since it is my first attempt, I would and I hate to say it but, do it for as in-expensive as possible.

What grit sandpaper should I start with? I was assuming 600-800 grit but I'm not sure so I figure I should ask some people with more experience.

I really do appreciate all your help, I am 18 and don't have alot of money to work with so really I'm wondering how cheap can I go with this while still making it look decent? haha


ravera
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Car: 1971 Datsun 240Z

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It all depends, if you're looking for really easy to do, single stage can still look good if you're not incompetent, and I'm gonna wager a bet that you're not. Strip the car, prep with 320 for primer (after getting all those dings out with a hammer/dolly or if necessary bondo *i hate body filler*) prime the car with etch than high build if you want it to not rust, wet sand with 400 first LIGHTLY (what the high build is for) then 600-800. Prep the room, GET ALL THE DUST OUT. If you can, cover the entire room in plastic to make your own makeshift booth. In the event it's possible, have one opening at the top, and use a few cheap box fans at ground floor as your only exit, this will create a semi-down draft which will attempt to keep crap off your shiny paint and wet down the floor to enhance the aformentioned. Shoot it and be amazed. If you get runs, use a razor 90 deg to the surface and scrape, if you sand it you'll sand all the paint off the surrounding area before you kill off that run.

As for colors, to be honest a decent black job is not bad, it's just one of the more difficult non-metallics. If you want black metallic you're a masochist. Just make sure it's straight and no digs, a really high intensity hallogen light will make high spots and valleys show up like a sore thumb. After you've got your color shot, I'd wet sand it and I always used above 1000 grit. If you go the base clear route, than the most difficult part is getting on two nice coats of clear. If you've got it handled it's just a wet sand clear and you're in business.

I painted my first car when I was 16, 20 now. If I can produce a decent paint job than I'm quite very sure than anyone could. What gun(s) are you using??

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evildky
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you never answered what primer you were using, the paint has to be compatible with the primer, and no paoitn is compatible with rattle car primer

as for difficult, metalic's and perls are difficult and black is the most difficult solid coor

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2Fast280ZX
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Car: 1980 Datsun 280ZX

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I'm not sure what kind of primer would be best, but right now I'm racing the car alot at our local track so it will stay primered for a month or two before I finish making it perfect, as for right now I just want to do the sanding and primering as easy as possible to get it ready and then I will have a professional paint it.

I've decided to just do the body work and primering.

I will just use a low grit sandpaper 300-500 and then Primer not rattle can because that will look pretty shotty.

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evildky
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oh, you want to primer, I thought you were saying you already primered, if you clearcoat is peeling you have to sand it off of the panels that are peeling competely, probably a 240 grit or so, and then primer with a high build urethane primer like SW ultrafill, or slicksand, these products will fill minor scratches and chips and sinds easy with a longboard and a 600


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