1964 Datsun L320, brake parts Here are some part numbers and pics i found on rockauto.com
 [img]http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn70 ... 721936.jpg[/img] 521 front wheel cylinder, Beck/Arnley #0721936
 [img]http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn70 ... 722561.jpg[/img] 521 rear wheel cylinder, Beck/Arnley #0722561
[img]http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn70 ... 722660.jpg[/img] 521 master cylinder, Beck/Arnley #0722660
[img]http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn70 ... 730259.jpg[/img] 521 rear brake line, Beck/Arnley #0730259
 [img]http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn70 ... 731188.jpg[/img] 521 front brake line, Beck/Arnley #0731188
 [img]http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn70 ... H36737.jpg[/img] 521 front brake line, Dorman #H36737 ( half the cost of Beck/Arnley )
 [img]http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn70 ... W17219.jpg[/img] 520 rear brake hardware kit, Dorman #HW17219
 [img]http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn70 ... W17200.jpg[/img] 520 frnt brake hardware kit, Dorman #HW17200
 [img]http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn70 ... 810168.jpg[/img] 520 rear brake shoes, Beck/Arnley #0810168
 [img]http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn70 ... 810150.jpg[/img] 520 front brake shoes, Beck/Arnley #0810150
[img]http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn70 ... 830307.jpg[/img] 520 rear drum, Beck/Arnley #0830307 (wholesaler closeout-13 left when I ordered)

 520 front drum, Beck/Arnley #0800307 (no picture, but it looks very similar to rear)
 [img]http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn70 ... 722678.jpg[/img] 620 master cylinder, Beck/Arnley #0722678 ( The PO installed new 521 master so I decided to buy this master to see if i could get a dual master, looked similar in pictures so i will keep my fingers crossed)


[img]http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn70 ... atsun4.jpg[/img]

Nice listing of parts with the pics...Thanks!

The m/c will work fine with the brakes themselves and be much safer.

Couple of differences to be prepared for when you install.  You will most likely need to open the hole in the firewall up a little bit.  You will probably need to elongate the mounting holes on the m/c itself, toward the middle.  Also...the threads for the lines are metric while your stock stuff is SAE. 

You can make a new line from the m/c to the union on the firewall....put a metric nut on one end and SAE on the other.  You can disconnect the rear line from the union and block it off.  I'm going off memory here....so I may be off a tad.  Block the port where the rear was connected.  Run another new line (metric/SAE nuts) from the m/c to where the rear line is.  You can get a female nipple to join to two lines. 

Make sure you take pics and post a "how-to"

Hey Mklotz70,
    I compliment you on your memory, you are right on. The holes on the 620 dual master are centered on around 2.350" ( I know it is probably some metric number but i only have SAE calipers), while the 521 master has mounting holes centered on 2.250" i think. The hole in the firewall is 1.375" and the 620 master needs a hole 1.5". I already figured i would have to use the metric nuts at the master but i have to go to the store and buy the lines. I will be taking lots of pics as i go.
    Today when i got home from work most of the parts had come and were in two huge boxes on my porch. SWEET! Still waiting for the rubber front lines, and the brake haedware kits, which i think are coming from Dorman direct.

I should remember it better!!!  I've been working on disc mods for the 521's for about 4 years now.  I'm certainly not a "brake guru", but I'm pretty well versed on the options for kingpin datsuns

Do yourself a favor while you're overhauling your brakes. Install an adjustable proportioning valve for the rear brakes. These things are notorious for the rear brakes prematurely locking up. You can dial in the amount of pressure to the rear brakes by turning the knob. I installed one on mine at the rear where the steel line connects to the rubber line. I made a small aluminum "L" bracket and a small straight piece of brake line and it bolted right on where the original rubber hose bolts to the frame (near the differential). I didn't alter the truck and if I wanted, can change it back to original in minutes.

It made a huge difference in how the truck stops.

If anybody's interested, I'll take pictures of mine and post.

I think I got mine for about $35.00 delivered from Ebay.

Oops, Ment to post this...

1964 L320, tear down, part 1 Well I got the parts today, at least most of them, and during the week I started taking apart the brakes, here are some pics.... [img]http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn70 ... ATSUN2.jpg[/img]
above is the right rear

 [img]http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn70 ... ATSUN3.jpg[/img]

above is the inside, I don't know if you can tell but the backing plate on this wheel is different than the rest. This wheel looks super clean, drum looks new.

 [img]http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn70 ... ATSUN4.jpg[/img]

The same wheel, the drum came off easy, after i loosened the adjuster. Could I be so lucky...........

 [img]http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn70 ... ATSUN5.jpg[/img]

left rear....NO! No such luck! look at this greasy mess, i might need to order oil seals! or maybe PO squirted some oil in here, or maybe it is brake fluid. What a mess? Hard to loosen adjuster and in my frustration got me first official knuckle whap while working on the datsun. OUCH!

 [img]http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn70 ... ATSUN6.jpg[/img]

nother pic of left rear, this drum must be made right, it was very tight on hub

 [img]http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn70 ... ATSUN8.jpg[/img]

nother pic, featuring improvised brake adjusting tool and super-fine general purpose adjusting device (hammer)

 [img]http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn70 ... TSUN10.jpg[/img]

on to the left front, hard to adjust, tight on hub as well, had 1 locking/locating screw installed

 [img]http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn70 ... TSUN12.jpg[/img]

front wheels very dirty, shoes chewed up

 [img]http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn70 ... TSUN13.jpg[/img]

The tires are to large, they were rubbing all over, who the "f" would drive there truck/car like this?

 [img]http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn70 ... TSUN14.jpg[/img]

front right, hard as well, but getting the hang of it now, both locating/locking screws in this wheel

 [img]http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn70 ... TSUN15.jpg[/img]

more rubbing

 [img]http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn70 ... TSUN16.jpg[/img]

more slime, can you see the shoes and how chewed up they are?

 [img]http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn70 ... ATSUN0.jpg[/img]

sidebar: the rims are 15" rims and have huge tires, the original caps held on by three pan head screws screwed in place of the original style hubcap nubs on original rims

 [img]http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn70 ... ATSUN1.jpg[/img]

maybe you can see in this pic Well that is all, i have new pics but can't down load from cam at home right now so maybe tomorrow Thw next step is to dismantle brakes and hubs, clean them, check seals, ect......you'll see




Vega$320,
     Yeah, i wondered about the fact that all  four wheels have same size drums, plus I am no brake wiz but the front brakes are the oddest design i have ever seen on a car with self equalizing brakes, the rear looks like what i am used to, i imagin the fronts don't work to well if the adjuster doesn't slide freely in the backing plate. Looks like the piston pushes one way and just kind of jambs the shoes up against itself as they go around the drum.
I think i have a couple unused P-valves in my hot-rod stuff.

Hey you all, can you guys take a look at my motor, I think is not the original motor

[IMG]http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn70 ... TSUN18.jpg[/IMG]


another pic


[IMG]http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn70 ... tsun12.jpg[/IMG]


another pic


[IMG]http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn70 ... tsun13.jpg[/IMG]


I am almost positive it is not the original style E1 because it has a spin on oil filter which spins on from the top straight up, but what kind of motor is it? can anyone tell from my pics? I ask because i found a link on this forum which list pertronix kits for 411's, 520's and 521's. 66-70. I would love a pertronix because I don't like points. I read Mklotz70's post about swapping dizzy's, but.......

Zenndog,

Your engine might be a J13. Look at the engine #'s down by the oil filter / distributor area. If it's a J13, I believe it will have a lone "J" stamped on one pad and the sequence # on the other one. You're right, the oil filter and valve cover bolt pattern give it away.

I just installed a Pertronix in mine and it worked out perfect. If you have a cast iron dizzy, it's the original unit. If it's aluminum, it's a newer unit and a Pertronix #1741 should work fine. If aluminum, it should be a Hitachi or a Mitsubishi dizzy.

Looks like they hung a 73-up GM alternator on it too.

Have fun!

 

Great pics!  Thanks!

I'll bet you got your hopes up pretty good that all the brakes looked like the first one!  Rear R seems to be missing one of the rubber cups on the cyl?  The RL looks like the seals are there, so I'd definitely check the axle seal.  I'm pretty sure that seal is still available across the counter.  I think it was used through the later models. 

Back to the memory.....the reason for the difference between the style of brake on the front/rear is that one is "self actuating" and one is not.  It basically means that it tries to activate itself more when applied...lessening the pedal effort.  I'm pretty sure it's the fronts, since that makes sense.  That way they actually brake harder than the rears with the same pressure.  Plus....self actuating on the rear would really tend to lock up.

You're right about the bottom adjuster needing to be able to slide for the fronts to work correctly.  It's a common problem for them to get stuck.  The plates on the back that lock them in are a bit weird, but you seem to know your way around a wrench....so I'm sure you'll figure out how to get them off.  I usually pry one side with a screwdriver to disengage the clip, then tap on the other side with another screwdriver to actually move the clip.  You can salvage the adjusters....you'll have to.  Just make sure you use some high temp anti seize in them when they go back together.  Since you're going to be running drums...adjusting your brakes will be a reality and anti seize makes it so much easier!

 The threaded holes in the brake drums should be offset from the holes in the axles when you put them back on.  If the drum gets stuck on the center of the axle, you can put a couple of bolts in there to act like jack bolts.  If they were counter sunk on the outside, I'd say they were lock bolts and should be lined up.....but I don't think they are.  Factory manual might say.

Kinda curious about the oddball backing plate.  If it works...great...if not, let me know.

Another option on your motor is that it's a later E1 out of a forklift....like mine.  Mine has the spin on oil filter and a nice rubber front main seal.  If it has an E on the plate...check the serial number after it.  The stock motor had a pretty low number, while the other had a really high number.  I was told it's a sequential production number.  The second motor had a number so high that it had to come out of the '70's.  Maybe somebody knows if that's true.....if they even read all the way through my overly long posts!!! Even the J13's in all the trucks had a FELT front main seal.  The rubber front seal is the biggest "tell" I've found so far. 

Interesting wheels.  Look a lot like datsun, but maybe GM?  I'd probably keep those rims and run a smaller tire.  The stock bias ply tire for the 521 was about 26-27" tall.  I'm not sure if the NL's ran anything that big.  You're rims maybe a bit wider to the rear causing some of the rubbing.  You're going to be running drums for quite awhile...you could find some stock 14" rims and run those.  You just can't stick discs behind the stockers.

Zenndog.....The valve cover looks just like the one on my E1.....what specifically in the bolt pattern is different?  Also...will that pertronix number work for the cast iron dizzy too? 

1964 320, Extra parts update

Here is the next round, I will start with a few extra parts I ordered

 [img]http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn70 ... 513079.jpg[/img]

520/521 rear wheel bearing, BECK/ARNLEY #0513079, you will see why I ordered it


 [img]http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn70 ... 521575.jpg[/img]

520/521 rear inner grease seal, BECK/ARNLEY #0521575


 [img]http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn70 ... AL1974.jpg[/img]

520/521 rear outer grease seal, BCA-NATIONAL #1974

520/521 front inner(only)grease seal, TIMKEN #1977

The grease seals are being replaced because of the large amounts of oil/slime in the brake area, I think the seals looked ok but why risk it?

The rear wheel bearing on the driver side looked like this...... [img]http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn70 ... 0_2762.jpg[/img]

I hope you can see the bad part, anyway, I am going to post my "take apart the rear axle assembly adventure" in a separate post, it will be called " all your bases are belong to us" in honor of the factory service manual grammer. After an hour or so of reading /re-reading it, I figured out what I was suposed to do

This is just a quick post, more to come, I have been short on time, This is a brief view in to some of the stuff you may encounter, I am shure many of you know this.

Oh by the way, one of the new wheel cylinders for the front brakes didn't fit right so i sent it back, The mounting stud was to close to the locating nub on the cyl. Oh well. Nother one on the way!

Zenn....

In the pictures, your inner seals look right, but the outers don't. It always sucks when you go to put something together and don't have the right stuff. I find the after market part #'s sometimes are wrong. Might just be the pics though.

Seal dimensions are (in millimeters):

Inner: 35 x 55 x 11

Outers: 48 x 65 x 9

Now, the widths don't have to be exact. Just thought I'd let you know.

Yeah:?,
     Thanks vega$, you are totally right, i just finally recieved the seals and was out  checking out parts, the outer seals for the rear wern't right for the 320, maybe the 520/521 either but that was what the part # was for. I wasn't shure so i checked the part # 1977 timken seals for the front and they fit the rear as well, so i am sending back the bca-national seals and ordering 2 more of the #1977. Will try to post picks of the real parts before i send them back, thanks.

1964 320, brake tear down, part 2

Boy do i need some of those brake shoe pliers, but I make due one more time with vise grips, screw driver and nubby fingers I didn't take to any photos of removing brake shoes.

The process was fairly straight forward;

1.The front shoes were simple, especially with the hub removed first, the shoes only mount with springs so with the hub off it was easy to remove them.

2.The rear were harder because you can't remove the axle with out the backing plate, the axle and the plate won't come out without removing the e-brake cable, and i think it would be a neat trick to remove the e-brake cable without having the shoe it mounts to removed from the backing plate. Anyways, the springs and such are a little tricky to get at with the axle flange there but boo-hoo.      

One other note i will re-address during reassembly, the larger spring goes on the bottom. If you look at the pics of the rears with the drums removed, the dirty side is right, the clean side has the fat spring on top which was rubbing against the back of the axle flange in that position. I checked the springs as well and the smaller spring is stiffer and the hooks are reversed so it fits better with all the e-brake hardware. It shure helps to remember with alot of pics taken so you don't have to remember.

3. Front wheel cylinder removal, the fronts had one 7/16" stud (11/16" wrench) and the bleeder screw/banjo fitting. both fronts were tight in the backing plate and took some tapping on the stud with the nut in place to get loose

4. Rear wheel cylinder removal, four 1/4" studs ( 7/16" wrench) and bleeder/banjo fitting. the old cylinder was tight, the more recently "worked on" cylinder was easier.

5. adjusters, Clip removal, assuming your clips are put on right, i used a monkey wrench, 1/2", and slipped the open end under the top clip nub ( don't know how to describe it better, hopefully the pictures are good enough) then i used the wrench to lift the nub above the two tabs of the lower clip(1). Then i used a screwdriver hooked on the back side of the clip levered against the suspension to push the clip forward over the tabs of the bottom clip(2). I couldn't take pics because it takes two hands, so the pics are of what each hand was doing at the same time. Does that make sense?
 [img]http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn70 ... 0_2843.jpg[/img]


1

 [img]http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn70 ... 0_2845.jpg[/img]

2

Here are some pics of the aftermath
[img]http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn70 ... 0_2723.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn70 ... 0_2736.jpg[/img]

I am trying to keep unecessary pics down to a minimum, this post is getting long

Here are parts cleaned, just with lacquer thinner

[img]http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn70 ... 0_2764.jpg[/img]

rear

[img]http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn70 ... 0_2728.jpg[/img]

front

I am missing the top clip for the adjuster, If you might have any extra clips please PM me. For now i moved it to one of the rear wheels.

Next post rear axle seals, ect....