194k mile ka24de - rebuild. do it myself or give it to a shop...

[EnemyKhan]

I've tried searching all over these forums as well as Google for hours so I apologize if this is a repeated topic. I could not find any info on a ballpark figure for a shop to rebuild my 1991 194k ka24de motor if I supply the kit nor do I know of any places around the NJ area that could do it. My friend is more of a mechanic than me and has a shop/a lot of tools. For one, I don't know if he has a way to remove the engine. He also doesn't think he could do it himself/with my help/with the forum's help, and I have no idea what to expect out of doing a rebuild. Help in this area would be greatly appreciated, I need this car running reliably by about the end of June.

[driftneil]

Its not that hard just teadious, take knowhow er atleast a fsm. and to pull you engine you can take off the crossmember and lower the engine and jack the car up.(assuming you dont have a cherry picker)

[gumby74]

If you have the space and appropriate tools, there is no real reason why you could not do it yourself.Take your time during dis-assembly, use Zip Lock baggies and have plenty of Simple Green on hand. Be systematic about how you do things, pay attention to things that give you a hard time.You can clean your engine bay and hunt down needed hoses, clamps, and what not while the head and block are checked and machined as necessary. If you do the work yourself, with a complete rebuild kit, gaskets, bearings (Clevite), water pump, valve job, fuel filter, hoses and basic machine work, I would be surprised if it cost a grand.I did my KA E for just over $800. With all stated above and a new clutch to boot.

[gthammers]

I think gumby is right on with his advice. Ziplocks, markers, and any other way to keep fasteners labelled and together makes life MUCH better.

One other thing I do for the front covers bolts and the transmission bolts is I draw the shape and the holes on cardboard and punch the bolts through. If there's a chance you might take a while at this project you will appreciate this!

[Soravia]

You just need 50 hr or so time to get EVERYTHING, which is what you want for RELIABILITY. You'll also need a car to make frequent trips to Advance and junk yard for parts.

New clutch is a good thing and you can bypass that evil clutch damper too.new motor mounts, transmission mount, hoses and all that is good.If you don't live Cali dump that EGR system as well since it's easier to do while the engine is out.Get new thermostats, water pump and fan clutch too.

Don't forget to clean, sand, repaint and coat your engine bay too. I wanted to do it but I had little money and time. Not just for looks you'll save the thing from eaten up to bits by rust later down the road.

You can also replace power steering feed hoses and tie-rod ends or balljoints.

If you have enough money to cut and weld 9 or so aluminum pieces, make a custom intake manifold using parts from the stock. It'll save about 20 lbs. Replace all the vaccume hoses as well. (not many after you pulled the EGR)Replacing the exhaust manifold with OBX knock-off for $150 saves weight and reduces about 10 lbs.

[gumby74]

Yep that is about right on.The trick is gonna be replacing all the annoying little things, like vacuum hoses and such. My car had 2 small sections of rubber line linking the power steering hoses that were leaking just enough to foil any attempts at a clean engine bay. Once the engine was out and everything replaced its all good. I know it sounds intimidating, but a service manual, appropriate tools, good organization, and some common sense will net you a good rebuild. If you do this yourself, dont rush the process, ALWAYS check, and verify torque values, and DO NOT force things together.