191WHP @ 7 PSI, needs work

[huguetpj]

OK. So I went to the dyno yesterday and this is the result:



Some of you may remember when I said you could barely run 7PSI on a stock fuel setup? Well... DON'T. My A/F's are way too lean for comfort (even at 4PSI) so I'm currently looking for a way to lower them. Do you guys think I could do this by bumping the base fuel pressure up a few pounds? Or would I be better off with a RRFPR? 7:1? I will eventually either buy an Emanage or finally be able to retune the stock ECU, but for now I need a quick fix.

Also, you may notice that the curve if graphed versus speed, not revs. This is because the dyno was having such a hard time reading my revs that the rev graph wasn't readable. The guy said, and I'm pretty sure he is right, that I have issues with my spark. He said I should check into the spark plug wires and that probably the distributor is bad. Anything else I should look into? I don't believe I need an MSD or similar for 7-10PSI, am I right?

So, where can I get some spark plug wires? Which ones are better? I've looked in past threads but didn't find a definite answer.

Also, what about the dist? If indeed it is bad.

PD. Don't trust your stock O2 sensor and AF gauge.

[Structure240sx]

i have a 7:1 begi fmu im trying to sell with a walbro fuel pump i was having no problems at 8psi. let me know if you're interested

get some accel wires and ngk 6 heat range plugs and gap them to about .035"

[LEMHEAD16]

I can probably get you a good used distributor if you need it. Aguy in my nieghborhod has a bunch of 240 he is parting out

[huguetpj]

Structure: How much would you be wanting for that FMU? I already have the Walbro 255 HP, just have not installed it. I'm gonna be asking around tomorrow to see what I can get my hands over here.

Although I would prefer to get just a variable 1:1 press regulator, as long as that can fix my issues, for now since I will be going electronic later.

Plugs? Hmmm... I replaced them when I rebuilt my motor last year. My mechanic used some 4 electrode ones he was gonna use in his turbo 85 Celica. Didn't really ask him what grade or other specs. Could those be the problem? I'm gonna take them out next weekend to see what they are and what story they can tell me.

LEMHEAD: I'll see if my dist is shot or not and then let you know.

[aleph1]

I hear the 4 electrode plugs (eg Bosch +4) dont work too well in the KA motor. Stick with NGK or Denso...

[huguetpj]

Could be.

Right now I'm gonna go with NGK blue wires (where can I get the best deal on them?) and Denso Iridium plugs (which I can get here in CR from a friend who distributes them).

If the dist is shot, any upgrades I could look into? Haven't really research the ignition part of my turbo project.

[Structure240sx]

i was looking to get $100 shipped for it.

colder plugs take some of the heat out of the engine (burn richer) something like that

[huguetpj]

i was looking to get $100 shipped for it.

This is a Bell Engineering FMU, right? Drop me a line at [email protected] and let me know what it includes and what not. I'm very interested.

Quote » colder plugs take some of the heat out of the engine (burn richer) something like that [/quote]

I'm gonna talk to my friend and see if he can get me 6 range denso iridiums. What about a bit colder 7 range plugs?

[huguetpj]

This is a Bell Engineering FMU, right? Drop me a line at [email protected] and let me know what it includes and what not. I'm very interested.

Just found out BEGI means Bell Engineering Group Inc. :slap So disregard my last question. But do drop me a line.

This FMU is just 7:1 not adjustable? Adjustable base pressure?

[EazyBreazy]

does your engine click or you have a mysterious click with those plugs. my boy put those in my car while i was in iraq. i changed them and the tick went away.....car felt alot pepier with a standard plug in it......i have also heard from a friend who has a mustang those plugs cause a ticking.....i think its some kindof arking to the piston not really sure what it is

[aleph1]

I heard that someones pistons hit the electrodes (possibly the "ticking"?) and totally messed his engine cuz of em. I recall it was on a Q45 or Maxima or something...

http://www.nissaninfiniticlub....Bosch

[huguetpj]

Maybe I should look into that. I can hear a clicking noise coming from the engine... although my mechanic says it is the injectors. Never heard that before rebuilding...

Anyway, I'm gonna change the plugs to denso iridium ones. But I'm still looking to get a set of NGK blues. Chepeast I've found is around $75 with shipping.

[andrave]

I don't see the point in spending that much on plug wires when you can get perfectly nice ones with lifetime guarantee down at autozone for 30..I've never heard of injectors clicking either.

[huguetpj]

I don't see the point in spending that much on plug wires when you can get perfectly nice ones with lifetime guarantee down at autozone for 30..I've never heard of injectors clicking either.

There's a small problem. The nearest autozone is... well... about 5k miles away... :pface ... I'll check on it online.

[j-z]

ive heard of numerous injectors clicking. i dont know what kinda cars youve been around but every car i have worked on you can hear the injectors spitting fuel in. also the chopiness on your rev graph is probably form detonation. so dont go out and spend money on ignition stuff when you really dont know what is wrong. you should have never ran your car with a stock fuel setup. thats asking for trouble. put a fmu and an inline pump on it then tack it back to the dyno and stick a wideband on it and check your a/f. then check the rev graph out and i bet it flattend out. did you retard your bast timing? and dont waste money on an adj base pressure regualtor, that wont do anything. go to http://www.honda-tech.com and i bet you can find a fmu and inline in the FI classifieds for about 125 shipped.

[huguetpj]

ive heard of numerous injectors clicking. i dont know what kinda cars youve been around but every car i have worked on you can hear the injectors spitting fuel in.

It's a bit above normal sound. It didn't sound as much before the rebuild.

Quote » also the chopiness on your rev graph is probably form detonation. so dont go out and spend money on ignition stuff when you really dont know what is wrong.[/quote]Don't worry, I know. That's why I'm gonna take it a step at a time. First fuel then ignition. I might seem in a hurry but I usually think about everything twice... specially when it comes to my car.

Quote »you should have never ran your car with a stock fuel setup. thats asking for trouble.[/quote]Yep I know. :rolleyes

Quote »did you retard your base timing?[/quote]Actually I tried, but saw no change in my EGTs so I went back to almost stock. 19-18°

Quote » and dont waste money on an adj base pressure regulator, that wont do anything. go to http://www.honda-tech.com and i bet you can find a fmu and inline in the FI classifieds for about 125 shipped. [/quote]Still waiting to see if structure contacts me about his FMU. I'm pretty sure once I get the emanage or something I'll be able to sell it off here. And I have the Walbre 255HP sitting in my room.

I'm gonna change my wires anyway cause I really don't know the condition of the current ones. I'll probably take them off and measure ohms first just to see. And I'm gonna take my plugs out and see if I see anything weird, then I'm gonna ask my friend what price can he give me on the Denso ones.

[McAdam]

yes, first and foremost, get rid of those plus 4 bosch plugs. someone explained to me that european and japanese ingnitions systems evolved differently after WWII and thats why japanese cars dont like bosch plugs. I've ran bosch platinums, and the +4's in my 280zx. it didn't like either. bad gas mileage and fouling. those denso irridiums should do the trick. still, 191rwhp at 7psi on a BADLY running motor is awesome, lol! lets see an SR do that!!!! HA ha!

McAdam

[C-Kwik]

I don't see the point in spending that much on plug wires when you can get perfectly nice ones with lifetime guarantee down at autozone for 30..I've never heard of injectors clicking either.

Oh, you mean the one time use plug wires? I'd prefer factory or at least a brandname aftermarket set of wires. I had the same mentality and for the most part could care less excpet I ended up having to replace my wires everytime I pulled the wires. The terminal would end up stcuk to the plug and not the wire. I went through three sets. I've pulled my OEM wires time and time again and it's still in perfect shape.

[huguetpj]

How much would OEM wires cost, from say CourtesyParts.com?

[andrave]

no the ones I got were bosch or some name brand, silicone jacket, lifetiem guarantee, I never had any problems with them. I'd say you need to grasp them by the connector instead of just yanking the plug wires off, thats why they are breaking off.