180sx Manual Boost Controller or Replace Actuator

[Bvarnon]

So I have had my 180sx for a while now prepping for the track. The car is bone stock performance wise other than a front mount intercooler. The other day my boost pressure built up to 13 psi which it normally tops at 10. Checked the wastegate actuator and its good and i believe it is the stock boost control regulator module. My question is since i can just remove the boost controller and run straight to wastegate instead of the oem t fitting between my intercooler piping it would open the actuator at I believe 6psi. Would getting a manual boost controller or the aftermarket HKS wastegate actuator be a better "buy" for this fix. Car is not tuned so which ever option is will be set to 10 psi. Ive also been recomended getting a Greddy Boost controller but heard it would require a tune and my car is a stock J4 ecu. If its possible to set up the greddy to run like a stock boost controller i think this is the best option but i personally have never messed with them. Any help or knowledge is appreciated. Thank you!

[flartius]

So either option is going to give the results you want, the question is: how much do you want to spend and what are your end build goals?

On my first 240 I ran a manual boost controller with no issues, on my 180 I have a Greddy electronic boost controller and it doesn't require "tuning" but you have to adjust it until you get the settings correct for the boost you want. The advantage is you can do this without getting out of the car vs. a manual boost controller that will require you to make a 3rd or 4th gear pass, stop get out make an adjustment and repeat. It will also keep you from having boost creep in the colder months when the air is denser, I had to turn my boost controller down during the winter with my 240 but the Greddy opens the wastegate based on the boost it reads.

[Bvarnon]

So either option is going to give the results you want, the question is: how much do you want to spend and what are your end build goals?

On my first 240 I ran a manual boost controller with no issues, on my 180 I have a Greddy electronic boost controller and it doesn't require "tuning" but you have to adjust it until you get the settings correct for the boost you want. The advantage is you can do this without getting out of the car vs. a manual boost controller that will require you to make a 3rd or 4th gear pass, stop get out make an adjustment and repeat. It will also keep you from having boost creep in the colder months when the air is denser, I had to turn my boost controller down during the winter with my 240 but the Greddy opens the wastegate based on the boost it reads.

Have you ever messed with the hks actuator, thinking about getting it for the meantime and getting the greddy boost controller later on

[flartius]

No I've not, I have the Greddy Profec B Spec 2 and it can be a bit of a pain to get it dialed in. I plan to go to an Apexi Power FC and then I'll probably swap to their boost controller so the tuner can have it built in to the tune.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

a manual boost controller that will require you to make a 3rd or 4th gear pass, stop get out make an adjustment and repeat.

I've used a compressor with the regulator dialed into the ballpark that I want the wastegate to open at. Pressurize the circuit and adjust the boost controller until I see the wastegate open.

[flartius]

a manual boost controller that will require you to make a 3rd or 4th gear pass, stop get out make an adjustment and repeat.

I've used a compressor with the regulator dialed into the ballpark that I want the wastegate to open at. Pressurize the circuit and adjust the boost controller until I see the wastegate open.

I've never thought to do that, pretty good idea! This is why we pay you the big bucks

[PapaSmurf2k3]

This is why forums are a thing

Also, if you have another person (or get crafty with mounting a camera), you can also verify the pressure on your boost gauge. Sometimes compressor gauges aren't the most accurate.

[flartius]

While I certainly don't miss all the BS on Zilvia, I was definitely sad to see it shut down... Millions of posts of useful information that you can't query now.

[Bvarnon]

This is why forums are a thing

Also, if you have another person (or get crafty with mounting a camera), you can also verify the pressure on your boost gauge. Sometimes compressor gauges aren't the most accurate.

Hey so thanks for the idea, im almost positive its still overboosting, i did not check to see the accuracy of the boost gauge but its significantly louder spool and my bov sounds like it wants to go on vacation through my hood. I put the hks wastegate actuator on and it has a new vaccum line sourcing directly from a bung on the ic hot pipe. Still over boosting. Took off the actuator and the little arm moves extremely freely, didnt try it but i feel like you could blow on it and move it. wondering if it somehow disconnected from the little trapdoor on the inside of the housing. Either way looks like im having to remove my turbo and checking the internals, super upset since my first track day was supposed to be in 2 months but maybe i can fix/source a new exhaust housing. Any tips at all appreciated, ill try anything since I heard these turbos are a little rough getting out.

[Bvarnon]

So either option is going to give the results you want, the question is: how much do you want to spend and what are your end build goals?

On my first 240 I ran a manual boost controller with no issues, on my 180 I have a Greddy electronic boost controller and it doesn't require "tuning" but you have to adjust it until you get the settings correct for the boost you want. The advantage is you can do this without getting out of the car vs. a manual boost controller that will require you to make a 3rd or 4th gear pass, stop get out make an adjustment and repeat. It will also keep you from having boost creep in the colder months when the air is denser, I had to turn my boost controller down during the winter with my 240 but the Greddy opens the wastegate based on the boost it reads.

So hks actuator is on and its still overboosting, the arm that the actuator attaches too moves extremely freely when not hooked up so maybe its disconected from the internal trapdoor, any ideas?

[flartius]

So hks actuator is on and its still overboosting, the arm that the actuator attaches too moves extremely freely when not hooked up so maybe its disconected from the internal trapdoor, any ideas?

So my Greddy controller has a setting to start opening up the wastegate once it reaches a certain boost, the setup instructions recommended about 4psi below your target boost pressure. This is called the 'set gain' for the Greddy unit, I would imagine the HKS controller would have something similar.

All I can really suggest is to go and check the instructions to make sure its plumbed in properly and you've got the settings dialed in correct.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Took off the actuator and the little arm moves extremely freely,

Are you talking about the arm on the turbo itself (not the actuator). If so, that is supposed to move freely.