15inch Subwoofers?

[Truerocket11]

Hey guys i know its in the wrong section, but have any of you tried to fit 2 15inch subs in the trunks of our A/Cs? If not, any ideas of installing them in the back without removing the seats?These are what I have:

[DJ_B_Easy]

Build a huge box...by the looks of your sig. trunk space is not an issue. They look like pretty deep mounts, if you built 2 wedge style boxes to go on left and right side of trunk you might be able to pull it off. Otherwise lose your spare and build into that well?

[Rex]

Have you looked into isobaric boxes?

Here's a good thread on box tech

[AppleBonker]

I don't know that the trunk is tall enough. You might have to pull the spare and stuff to get them to fit. Fiberglass is probably the best bet to take advantage of the limited volume we have in the trunk. I'm sure it's doable, but it wont be cheap/easy.

[PHENOMenalVinyl]

I don't know that the trunk is tall enough. You might have to pull the spare and stuff to get them to fit. Fiberglass is probably the best bet to take advantage of the limited volume we have in the trunk. I'm sure it's doable, but it wont be cheap/easy.

i agree mad $$ to do this n thatll be sooooooooooo much bass y would u want 2 15's!!!!!!!!! thats nuts bro one is bad enough

[noshift]

i agree mad $$ to do this n thatll be sooooooooooo much bass y would u want 2 15's!!!!!!!!! thats nuts bro one is bad enough

two 15's? maybe its just me, but is that really necessary?

[AppleBonker]

two 15's? maybe its just me, but is that really necessary?

Is anything we do to our cars *really* necessary? We do it because we can!

[DJ_B_Easy]

Check it...been done.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3138532

[AppleBonker]

Check it...been done.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3138532

Too each their own, I guess. But damn that thing is an eyesore. Those are 15" subs. Though this guy clearly gutted the trunk to fit them in there. So as long as you're cool with no trunk and no spare/etc, it's doable.

What I don't get, to go through that much work to fit 15s and two amps, why would he try to find the cheapest crap out there? I'm sure that thing gets loud, but it absolutely has to sound like hell.

Also, wtf are twiters?

[noshift]

Is anything we do to our cars *really* necessary? We do it because we can!

touche!

[DJ_B_Easy]

Too each their own, I guess. But damn that thing is an eyesore. Those are 15" subs. Though this guy clearly gutted the trunk to fit them in there. So as long as you're cool with no trunk and no spare/etc, it's doable.

What I don't get, to go through that much work to fit 15s and two amps, why would he try to find the cheapest crap out there? I'm sure that thing gets loud, but it absolutely has to sound like hell.

Also, wtf are twiters?

Oh I agree, its ugly as sin. Judging from the rest of the equip. (Im pretty sure those are loudspeaker subs), I wouldnt be surprised if its just a baffle and not even a full box. Strictly to say "I have two 15"s in my itty bitty Coupe."

[AppleBonker]

Nope, that equipment is actually for car audio (subs and amps are the same brand). SPL as a name basically says to me: "hey, don't expect quality from this crap. But, it gets LOUD AS HELL!!!" for a motto. Check out the gear:

subssome amps

At that price, I'm going with complete crap. But, the sub page should give you some specs so you can size out one item that seems to fit.

[DJ_B_Easy]

At that price, I'm going with complete crap. But, the sub page should give you some specs so you can size out one item that seems to fit.

Agreed...Ive never even heard of this brand.

[Broadfield]

If you really need a bigger driver than a 12", then I would recommend some sort of JL Audio 13W something. Most of their 13's, whether it be a W6, W3, W1 etc., moves at least 45% more air than the 12" in the same line. For example: a 13W3v3 moves 60% more air than a 12W3v3. This is something a lot of people don't realize unless told by their local salesman. It's a nice option because the 13Wxxx isn't really that much bigger than a 12".... it's actually a 13.5". Also, box requirements are not that much more. So something to consider

[Rex]

Isobaric or AP mats.

Check out this old school Acura with 2 15's without taking up the entire trunkhttp://www.usdaudio.com/sw/cars/acura/

[Broadfield]

Isobaric or AP mats.

Check out this old school Acura with 2 15's without taking up the entire trunkhttp://www.usdaudio.com/sw/cars/acura/

Yeah, but neither of those setups are going to have as much output as two subs in a conventional box. It's obvious he is going for overall output here.

[Truerocket11]

Agreed...Ive never even heard of this brand.

Oxygen Audio is an actually pretty respectable brand as far as quality goes although they aren't as a big of a name as Kickerz, JL, JBL, etc.

Yeah, but neither of those setups are going to have as much output as two subs in a conventional box. It's obvious he is going for overall output here.

I am going for output but if it can be done without sacrificing too much of my trunk I would be pretty satisfied. The box I have now was free including the subs so Im not complaining about that lol. I'm just planning on ripping out the middle of my backseat to install my current JL's in a plexiglass enclosure and putting a box with the two Oxygens in my trunk. Of course I'm probably going to need a better battery than the stock and a more poweful amp

[Broadfield]

So wait a minute, you already have some JL subs? And you are going to add these Oxygen thingies?

[AppleBonker]

So wait a minute, you already have some JL subs? And you are going to add these Oxygen thingies?

Perfect question. If so, it's not a good idea. Mixing drivers generally does not result in anything positive.

[Infinite-T]

I am going for output but if it can be done without sacrificing too much of my trunk I would be pretty satisfied. The box I have now was free including the subs so Im not complaining about that lol. I'm just planning on ripping out the middle of my backseat to install my current JL's in a plexiglass enclosure and putting a box with the two Oxygens in my trunk. Of course I'm probably going to need a better battery than the stock and a more poweful amp

I am no car audio expert by any means but I do know power and have a good background in physics and electronics. But I have been watching this thread for a while now and thought I would pitch in my engineers perspective on all this.. for what it's worth..lol

First: Holy sweet mother of god dude, that is going to be frickin loud.

Second: I am sure if you gutted your trunk, and took the back seats out you could probably make room for all that. If you are good at it or have someone who is you could probably custom build some huge fibreglass monster to house it all. I have seen some really crazy custom setups that actually look pretty professionally done. Prolly wont be cheap.

BUT let me tell you that you need to plan on some major power upgrades. Say you had 2000watts driving those 15's. Your cars electrical system is 12/14volts. so 2000watts divided by 14volts is 143amps. Now say maybe a 1000watts more for the JLs. 1000watts divided by 14volts is 71amps. That brings your total amps just for all those subs up to 214amps!. I think the stock alternator for the newer altis is something like 120 amps!

Plus your car needs to run all of its equipment... no idea what the ampere requirement is for that, but plan on buying a high amp alternator. Spendy im sure.

Next: grounding. Plan on upgrading all your grounding. I think they use #4awg wire as the stock ground. #4 wire is good for 95amps (NEC 2008). So for the 300-350 amps you need would need like 300Kcm wire or more feasibly a parallel run of 2/0.

You would also likely have to parallel a second battery back to your rig.

Lastly you would probably be running close to a pressure threshold. I dont have all of those formulas memorized, and i am to lazy to look them up and the cabin size of your alti and do all the math. But that amount or decibels and pressure in that small of a place you would no doubt have all kinds of rattles. You would probably start to develop more over time too. Also all of the seals in your windows and stuff could start to blow out and develop leaks.

Just something to keep in mind when you dream big, it usually costs big too. Again I could be wrong on all this and certainly Apple and these other pros would have more actual knowlege in this subject.

This is just strictly from my engineering perspective. But from the sounds of it, if you are going to do this you are going to need a fist full of cash, and a lot of time to do some modding work. If you get it up and running Im sure we would all love some pics of how you pull it off!

[AppleBonker]

You'd be surprised what the stock alternator is capable of. I thought about upgrading mine, but a true upgraded alternator is hard to come by, and swapping it out on the 3.5 is outrageously time consuming. You're electrical perspective is basically correct though.

For reference, I've got a single run of 1/0 power going to the trunk and 1/0 grounds throughout. I've got a Kinetik HC2400 in the trunk as a secondary battery, but still running the stock alt. My sub amp is pushing close to 2000 watts rms (maybe peaking closer to 5k) and my interior speaker amps are probably chewing up another 400 or so watts. Granted, with music playing they don't really reach these numbers, so it's kind of hard to estimate what they're actually consuming. Now, if I played solid pink noise I could easy tap things out and destroy my alternator. It hasn't happened yet, but I wouldn't be terribly surprised if my alt starts to die far earlier than most. Just saying.

[Infinite-T]

Yea, i suppose that would be true, in the industry I am in we think in a bit different terms. But I suppose thinking in the lines of demand factor and musical patterns you wouldnt be pushing your max numbers all the time, or maybe any of the time. I see what you are saying. You really know your poop.

Again you car audio pros know a bit more about that specific application than a dude like me who engineers and works on power systems in skyscrapers and factories. However I have done some pretty bad A** A/V systems for Microsoft, but again that building AC power.

[pickup1]

jl's nice but overpriced.your 15's....dont look "high quality" and they probably need a box about the size of your trunk.you would probably like it better if you fed those w0's more power.If you have to do 15's,do a small box 15,image dynamics or elemental designs,or even do them infinite baffle and use your trunk as an enclosure.I have 2 15's in my 06 4door,LOVE THEM! on a nine.1,sounds nice and gets loud too!

[rjdmmfl1]

Good luck with those 15's ... I'm too old for that kind of bass.... audiophile SQ setups are the way for me nowadays...

I just spent 14hrs studying for my boards and writing one of the manuscripts for my dissertation. The best part about my 30 minute drive home is listening to some Rebecca Pidgeon, Marta Gomez, and Xiomara!!!

[Truerocket11]

Thanks everyone for the input! Yeah I'm totally lost on what to do with these 15'' inch subs. I mean my JL's sound pretty decent and they're only pumping out like 200+ watts each. I think the 15's would sound a lot sicker but i just got to save up the kind of $$ so that its not as much of an eyesore as my current setup.

[Infinite-T]

Just for shiggles I looked around last night and did a lttle research. When sizing the wire for your power for these systems, look at the OCPD (fuse) the manufacturer has used in the amp itself. In their testing and developing of the products they determine the demand factor of the amp and size the fuse for it. Then you would simply use that amperage to size the wire.

Second I did a few rough calculations using a few rough numbers I found online. At 2 Ohms a 8000 watt system in a Altima sedan with propper containment (windows and doors closed) could push near 120 dB at max output. According to some info I found on some car audio websites is enough to start causing physical damage to the vehicle. Like mirrors rattling off, trim pieces cracking, and eventual window seal failure. At 140 dB it could cause suggnifiact damage to interior parts. At 160 dB it could cause failure of auto glass (cracked windows). 175 dB can cause damage to internal organs, and supposedly around 200 dB can cause death! Now thats a stereo!

[frankenberrie]

8000 watt system ---> damage to internal organs

I'm down!

[AppleBonker]

At 2 Ohms a 8000 watt system in a Altima sedan with propper containment (windows and doors closed) could push near 120 dB at max output.

You're forgetting what the vehicle actually adds. The speakers are not the only thing generating sound waves. It wouldn't take near 8000 watts to push 120 deebeez. But yes, with enough power significant damage can be done.

[Infinite-T]

That is very true, the resonance of all the metal, glass and body parts will certainly add to that. Without knowing all the numbers and how everything will respond and resonate, 8k was a real ballpark figure.Going further than just using raw numbers gets really involved, even then you wont get an exact number, there are sooo many variables.