13 Altima problem starting.

General discussion area for the L33-chassis Altima.
Pervis12
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Joined: Sat Apr 29, 2017 10:05 am
Car: 2014 Nissan Maxima S

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Having a problem starting a 2013 Altima, every time I tried to start it; you'll have the starter motor engaging and spinning, but the vehicle do not start, I looked at the flexplate inspection hole under the vehicle and i see that the flexplate is not being rotate by the starter motor. This 13 Altima had a engine replaced with a 14 Engine and I am not sure what flexplate it has; I know that Nissan has 2-3 options for the flexplat based on the part numbers, not only has 1 option for the starter motor, which is telling me that it does not matter what flexplate the engine has, the starter should engage the flexplate ( i could be wrong though). I do not want to remove the Tranmission(CVT) to changed the flexplate; instead i was wondering what starter should i use. I currently have 2 starter motor from a 13 Altima, the part number for those are the same for the 13 and 14 Altima 233003TA0A . But there's two options coming up with the same part number, one say 12-14 and the other say 14-15. Any help will be appreciated Thanks.


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AZhitman
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That starter part number covers 2013 - 2016 Altimas.

Dumb question, but have you tried increasing amperage? In other words, hook up a jump starter. It's possible your battery is a little weak, which can cause starter to spin, but not engage.

amc49
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'17 Nissan Altima

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X2 that, weak battery or solenoid only partially moves the starter armature to not throw it far enough out. Starter internal part wear could do it too.

The starter may be the same but the mounting points in space on the different engine may be different, meaning you can have one starter and more than one flex. The proper flex gets used to keep the points in space the same and then you only need one starter. I'd be checking the tooth count on the different flexes. Change of flex OD or radius.

Did you try the other starter yet? If they are reduction ones the one you used might have a broken geartrain inside to just spin inside the case. The test of that would be looking up inside bellhousing to see if the starter nose gear is actually turning, not just checking to see if the flex is turning.

There's a 4 and V-6 there too, you don't say which one. As well the sedan and coupe use different starters too.

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AZhitman
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Posts: 71063
Joined: Mon Apr 29, 2002 2:04 am
Car: 58 L210, 63 Bluebird RHD, 64 NL320, 65 SPL310, 66 411 RHD, 67 WRL411, 68 510 SR20, 75 280Z RB25, 77 620 SR20, 79 B310, 90 S13, 92 SE-R, 92 Silvia Qs, 98 S14.
Location: Surprise, Arizona
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I've been corrected... starter solenoid, 99% (assuming correct flexplate, as amc pointed out).

Pervis12
Posts: 13
Joined: Sat Apr 29, 2017 10:05 am
Car: 2014 Nissan Maxima S

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AZhitman wrote:
Tue Dec 18, 2018 2:51 pm
That starter part number covers 2013 - 2016 Altimas.

Dumb question, but have you tried increasing amperage? In other words, hook up a jump starter. It's possible your battery is a little weak, which can cause starter to spin, but not engage.
Yes, i first tried it with only the jumpbox, than i took the battery out my Maxima and tried it with the battery.
but i ended up taking the motor and the trans out the car, i going to see if thats the correct flexplate in there and change it if its not. Thanks for the help.

Pervis12
Posts: 13
Joined: Sat Apr 29, 2017 10:05 am
Car: 2014 Nissan Maxima S

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amc49 wrote:
Thu Dec 20, 2018 2:18 am
X2 that, weak battery or solenoid only partially moves the starter armature to not throw it far enough out. Starter internal part wear could do it too.

The starter may be the same but the mounting points in space on the different engine may be different, meaning you can have one starter and more than one flex. The proper flex gets used to keep the points in space the same and then you only need one starter. I'd be checking the tooth count on the different flexes. Change of flex OD or radius.

Did you try the other starter yet? If they are reduction ones the one you used might have a broken geartrain inside to just spin inside the case. The test of that would be looking up inside bellhousing to see if the starter nose gear is actually turning, not just checking to see if the flex is turning.

There's a 4 and V-6 there too, you don't say which one. As well the sedan and coupe use different starters too.
Thanks but

Pervis12
Posts: 13
Joined: Sat Apr 29, 2017 10:05 am
Car: 2014 Nissan Maxima S

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amc49 wrote:
Thu Dec 20, 2018 2:18 am
X2 that, weak battery or solenoid only partially moves the starter armature to not throw it far enough out. Starter internal part wear could do it too.

The starter may be the same but the mounting points in space on the different engine may be different, meaning you can have one starter and more than one flex. The proper flex gets used to keep the points in space the same and then you only need one starter. I'd be checking the tooth count on the different flexes. Change of flex OD or radius.

Did you try the other starter yet? If they are reduction ones the one you used might have a broken geartrain inside to just spin inside the case. The test of that would be looking up inside bellhousing to see if the starter nose gear is actually turning, not just checking to see if the flex is turning.

There's a 4 and V-6 there too, you don't say which one. As well the sedan and coupe use different starters too.
Thanks but i ended up taking the motor and the trans out the car, i going to see if thats the correct flexplate in there and change it if its not. Thanks for the help.

alltimeallen
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Hey Pervis
Did you ever figure a solution?

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VStar650CL
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Car: 2013 Nissan Altima 2.5 SL
2004 Nissan Altima 2.5 S

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The vast majority of "tooth chipper" and "runaway" starters are caused by the solenoid or Bendix gear in the starter. In the OP's case it might be different because the '13 and '14 models did have different flex plate part numbers. I don't think there's a geometry difference, but he would have been wise to swap the '13 flex to the '14 engine as part of the transplant.

alltimeallen
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Joined: Thu Dec 14, 2023 12:23 pm
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Well I figured out why he's having the issue, the 2013 and 2014 had a difference with the bell housing of the CVT transmission. I was just wondering if he had a workaround. I recently encountered this issue when I put a 2014 tranny into a 2013.

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VStar650CL
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Joined: Thu Nov 12, 2020 1:25 pm
Car: 2013 Nissan Altima 2.5 SL
2004 Nissan Altima 2.5 S

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That makes sense, the '13 4-banger did have a slightly different CVT from the '14, along with the different flex plate. I didn't know the geometry differed, it's not the sort of thing we run into at the dealership. Thanks for edifying.
:)


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