125k what should be changed and basic run down of my R50

[Wkz1gg0a]

So far i have done a whole lot i have changed
-Timing Belt/pumps
-Front bushings/bearings
-Regular oil changes (SHOULD I START SYNTHETIC)
-Just did a Tune up today
-KYB rear
Mechanically the car is good I have nothing big to worry about.
Things i Never changed
-MAF
-I never changed the Diff fluids and dnt recall my parents doing so when they had car.
- Springs( the truck has a nasty knock when more then 2 people sit the rubber blocks under the shocks/springs arent there anymore)

MISC things ive done is MY SYSTEM
-250A fuse block
-4g wire
-Two 12in Alphasoniks subs
-Audio pipe tweeters on rear doors
-Soundstream tweeter in stock tweeterplace
-Pioneer single din HU
-4 pioneer 6.5
-Poneer interior amp
-Lanzar bass amp
-Clarion EQ
-Both amps are connected by a Distribution block 4g-4g

[Towncivilian]

You don't need to change the MAF unless you're having issues, just clean it along with the throttle body.

I would change your diff fluids, they're supposed to be changed every 30k according to the FSM. Your plugs may be difficult to get off and thus may require heat to remove. Be sure to get LSD gear oil if applicable.

What exactly was a "tune-up"?

• Fuel filter?
• Engine air filter?
• In-cabin air filter (if so equipped)?
• Transmission fluid? If never changed, do a few drain and refills or a pan drop.
• Power steering fluid? Some siphon and refills using a turkey baster would suffice here.
• Spark plugs?

[Wkz1gg0a]

Sparks Cables Gas filter Air filter transmission fluid was checked i had changed it a few months back Steering fluid IDK if i have a cabin filter during my Break from school ill check, Belts, Cap/rotor, and i thinks thats it. I plan on seafoaming the my truck but will that just mess up my plugs/o2 sensors. And since i have 125k should i be looking into synthetic oil ??

[Towncivilian]

Power steering fluid you can change out yourself using a turkey baster (one you don't plan on reusing) and some new PSF. Open the reservoir, remove and clean off the screen (use brake cleaner), siphon out fluid, put new fluid & screen in, turn car on and move wheel lock to lock 2 or 3 times, and repeat the process a few times. Do not overfill. After this, I suggest one siphon & refill with every oil change to keep fluid fresh. The price of some fluid & a turkey baster is a hell of a lot cheaper than a steering rack or PS pump!

You can see if you have an in-cabin air filter by removing the glove box. There's a how-to here. I suggest getting a Nissan OEM filter since I've heard that eBay or aftermarket ones are thinner.

I don't know what Seafoam will achieve (except a smoke show, maybe). Maybe run a bottle of fuel injector cleaner with your next tank.

Synthetic oil is not a necessity, but you can switch to it if you live in a very cold climate or wish to clean your engine more efficiently (look under the oil filler cap with a flashlight for signs of sludge build up).

[Wkz1gg0a]

I use Lucas Fuel treatment/Injector cleaner everyother fill up. I live in NY not that cold except this winter was Crazy. If i do have a CF it hasnt been changed since 2000. The model i have is a 99.5 se limited and my body code is LR50 i thought it was a JR50 becasue of the body style o well. O BTW do you have any Idea why my Truck "bottoms out" when i have passangers in the backseat and or front whiles going over wholes speed bumps as slow as rolling speed my rear end knocks as if my shocks/struts were bad but i changed them recently should i go with NEW SPRINGS.

[Towncivilian]

I would think your coils are shot and cause your truck to bottom out, but I'm no expert on suspensions, so hopefully someone else will chime in.

If you run top tier gas often or always, you don't need to waste your money by adding fuel injector cleaner every other fill up. You can stretch it out to once every few months or probably even yearly.

I really don't know whether Seafoam will help anything. I've seen no proof that the smoke show it causes is really carbon deposits being removed, it might just be the Seafoam for all I know. I don't think it can hurt anything though, if you want to try it go for it. There are a couple how-tos listed in the giant how-to thread.

Synthetic oil is fine if you can afford it. Better cold starts, longer drain intervals... but if you're going to still change the oil at 3k miles, I'd just go with pretty much any conventional oil. Pennzoil, Valvoline, Castrol, whatever your preference... even SuperTech would work well. It's not so much the oil choice as the oil change interval that matters, really, unless you get some API SB rated crud from a gas station for 99 cents a quart.

[Wkz1gg0a]

I run the hghest grade gas and that 3.57 a gal sux also change oil every 3,000 miles with mobil 1 ever since new. My autozone had a sale and i have a friend that works their i bought the lucas for 10dollar a gal i got 6 gals in the garage. And as far as coils go i need to fix that problem quick sometimes i feel that my whole rear end with just break off

[Towncivilian]

Highest grade gas from which station? And you should stop wasting your money! The VG33E engine is designed to operate on 87 octane, not anything higher. Running higher octane will not provide more power, clean your engine, or anything. The timing won't advance any farther, so you're wasting money. Here's a nice explanation. Stick with regular 87 octane gas from any of the top-tier gas stations I linked to, or even find a station that sells gasoline with no ethanol added for better mileage. And yeah, gas prices hurt... I used to fill up using 91 octane too since my VQ35DE operates best on it, but now switched to cheaper 87 or 89 at least for now. And I guess if you have so much of that cleaner might as well get rid of it, but I still think you're probably wasting some of it. Even if you're using grocery store gas, you shouldn't need it any more often than 3 months. Also be aware that the cleaners do leave their own deposits on the injectors as far as I know, so switching brands for a couple tanks wouldn't be a bad idea.

One more thing: check your transmission fluid's color and smell. If it's not red and/or smells burnt, a drain and refill or two wouldn't hurt.

[m0nkeyprince]

Power steering fluid you can change out yourself using a turkey baster (one you don't plan on reusing) and some new PSF. Open the reservoir, remove and clean off the screen (use brake cleaner), siphon out fluid, put new fluid & screen in, turn car on and move wheel lock to lock 2 or 3 times, and repeat the process a few times. Do not overfill. After this, I suggest one siphon & refill with every oil change to keep fluid fresh. The price of some fluid & a turkey baster is a hell of a lot cheaper than a steering rack or PS pump!

You can see if you have an in-cabin air filter by removing the glove box. There's a how-to here. I suggest getting a Nissan OEM filter since I've heard that eBay or aftermarket ones are thinner.

I don't know what Seafoam will achieve (except a smoke show, maybe). Maybe run a bottle of fuel injector cleaner with your next tank.

Synthetic oil is not a necessity, but you can switch to it if you live in a very cold climate or wish to clean your engine more efficiently (look under the oil filler cap with a flashlight for signs of sludge build up).

I highly suggest you change the cabin air filter, even if you dont have one, you can cut out a pre outlined rectangle to insert it. If you do, you'd be surprised to see the amount of gunk in our air even after 50k miles

[Chris.m]

I run the hghest grade gas and that 3.57 a gal sux

I should move there, I pay (for 94 octane) the equivalent to $5.16 US / US Gallon

[SOUTHSHOREQX4]

I use Lucas Fuel treatment/Injector cleaner everyother fill up. I live in NY not that cold except this winter was Crazy. If i do have a CF it hasnt been changed since 2000. The model i have is a 99.5 se limited and my body code is LR50 i thought it was a JR50 becasue of the body style o well. O BTW do you have any Idea why my Truck "bottoms out" when i have passangers in the backseat and or front whiles going over wholes speed bumps as slow as rolling speed my rear end knocks as if my shocks/struts were bad but i changed them recently should i go with NEW SPRINGS.

My QX was doing the same thing....replace your springs and you'll wonder why you haven't done it sooner. its like having a brand new truck

[Wkz1gg0a]

What brand springs should i use, $$, etc.