12" subs in trunk????

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SloPpyDiCk
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Hey,

What's goin on people?? Hey i gotta 93 240sx coupe...and i was wondering, does anybody with a small coupe like this have 12" subs...because right now I have 10's and the box barely fits into my trunk..but i want more bass and i was looking to buy two 12"s...but i don't think the box is going to fit into my trunk. I was wonderin if anyone else with 12's could give me some ideas on what to do...thanks


whosurdaddy018
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why not just get better 10's and a bigger amp 12s are going to have to have more air space that u probly dont have

MECPInstaller
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you could probaly get away with some 12's that don't need a large box volume(1 cubic foot) or less and try using truck style boxes laid on their backs. What kinda 10's do you have now?

whosurdaddy018
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well i have 2 decent quality 10s in my trunk and they sound better and are louder than most 12's or the same price range/quality 10's will sound better in your car just because of your lack of air space but that is just if your going for sound quality thats the way i am

Hellion240sx
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try out a sealed box. i had one 12 inch he2 and it rocked with a 300watt amp.

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D Money
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i had 2 12s before they got stolen. it hurt handling a lot and made off ramps kinda scary, they do rattle your teeth though. im putting a 15 in my trunk right now

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Rex
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I agree a really good quality 10", properly amp'ed/eq'ed can sound much better than most any 12" you've heard. Another way is to go with a more exotic box, or set-up (isobaric clamshell or piggy back). Or an a-periodic mat in the box??

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PoorManQ45
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whosurdaddy018 wrote:well i have 2 decent quality 10s in my trunk and they sound better and are louder than most 12's or the same price range/quality
Um... I would say I beg to differ, but I don't beg.

So, I will say that my opinion states otherwise. What is the cost of your 10insubs? I can probably find an excellent pair of 12s' for less money. That is, of course, as long as you didn't get them from ebay (read: insanely cheap)
whosurdaddy018 wrote:10's will sound better in your car just because of your lack of air space but that is just if your going for sound quality thats the way i am
Simple solution to a lack of air space: Open the windows

Seriously though, you could solve this issue by using a properly "tuned" sealed enclosure. IMO, a sealed enclosure with a passive radiator of the same dimensions as the powered driver will deliver more bass than a standard sealed or ported enclosure. Also, with a passive radiator, you can lower your subs effective operating frequency range (read: more Boom)
CrazyS14240 wrote:it hurt handling a lot and made off ramps kinda scary, they do rattle your teeth though.
Why did it hurt handling? Was it because of the added weight, changed weight distribution? Or are you saying that the subs put out soo much bass that they affected traction of the tires?

IMO, the decreased handling was probably caused by you not being able to think because you were playing your "music" so damn loud. your brain was being rattled by the "bass". I'm just messin with ya man.
CrazyS14240 wrote:im putting a 15 in my trunk right now
What kind? How much?

My philosiphy is, bigger is better. Why go with a 15in when you could go with a 18in, 21in, or maybe even a 24in. Now those are real SubWoofers. They are usually able to play down to ~10Hz at over 95Db. Most of you guys probably have no clue what that would do.

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D Money
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i dont think bass can shake tires loose but maybe it could. my car would oversteer crazy becasue i had my battery, 2 amps, capacitor, 2 12s in the trunk. i got a diamond cm3 15 right now, it was 200$

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Simmsled
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You could be like MECPInstaller and go apeShi# on your back seat until you have enough bass to measure on a Richter Scale.

Though, a more time/cost effective way is to make sure that you have covered all the bases when it comes to a proper bass reproduction system. 1. Make sure that you are not underpowering your subs by at least meeting the minimum RMS power rating of your sub(s).2. Make sure that you have good wiring (proper gauge power/ground cable, good battery connection and ground) not to forget that the connections at the amp are critical as well.3. SOUND DEADENING!!! I cannot stress this enough. Dynamat will work great, but it is rather expensive. Instead, look for Brown Bread on eBay. It is less expensive and works wonders. I have done numerous cars that have had anywhere from 1-14 subs where we would do SPL and RTA tests on a vehicle pre and post sound deadening installation. We would consistantly get at LEAST +3dB and much less distortion from rattling body panels. By the way, 3dB is equivelent to what you get when you double the amount of speakers while using the same power. ((EX... 500 watts with 1 sub is 3dB less than 500 watts with 2 subs, no matter the size just so they are equal.))

4. As to sub size, 2 12''s are definitely good. 12''s seem to be the best all around sub size for speed, spl, frequency response, and space efficiency. A trunk full of 8s will pound your kidneys into submission just like a trunk full of 18''s will set car alarms off at 1/4 mile. 12''s meet you somewhere in the middle. I have had almost every conceivable sub setup in my car thru the years and I love the sound of 2 12''s and the sound of 1 15''. My next setup will consist of 1 Image Dynamics 15'', the IDQ15 D4 V.2 with about 600w in a small sealed enclosure. I have always loved the sound and the price of those subs. Anyways... good luck.

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PoorManQ45
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Simmsled wrote:I have done numerous cars that have had anywhere from 1-14 subs where we would do SPL and RTA tests on a vehicle pre and post sound deadening installation. We would consistantly get at LEAST +3dB and much less distortion from rattling body panels. By the way, 3dB is equivelent to what you get when you double the amount of speakers while using the same power. ((EX... 500 watts with 1 sub is 3dB less than 500 watts with 2 subs, no matter the size just so they are equal.))
If the cone area is doubled and the cone excursion remains the same, the acoustical power increases by a factor of four:


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